Take Down .22LR Rifles

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I built a 22 AR with a TacSol upper for use with my suppressor. Worst 22LR I ever had. Was jamming a lot, 22LR shells would get stuck in the charging handle slot, etc. I even had the CMMG plastic charging handle that was supposed to stop that. Sent the upper back to TacSol, too. It would fire fine, it was what happened to the shells after firing that caused an issue. I was happy to get rid of it and have looked at other rifles for take down purposes.
 
OK -a lot to cover here, so here I go. As always , YMMV.

A rimfire AR is no more or less accurate than any other blowback rimfire with the sights mounted on the barrel.

My CMMG 16" Sierra AR-15 .22LR upper has proven to be more accurate than my experience than a stock Ruger .22LR, Remington 552, Marlin 60, or my brother's old Winchester Model 74. Of course, none of these rifles are take-downs.

As for reliability, they work the same way. I suppose you can argue that the oversized magwell relative to need could be a problem for the AR. Also, some of the ARs have extraction and ejection compromises (e.g. some count on case pressure for extraction, some use the firing pin for ejection) and the AR provides a well for spent brass to get trapped in, all of which reduce reliability at least in theory.

There are a wide variety of .22LR AR-15 options out there, and there is obviously a difference in quality. One would expect a pricy Nordic components or Spikes .22LR AR, or a mid-range priced CMMG, to perform better than the lower end offerings from Chiappa/ATI. Then you have the cheap "look-alikes" like that Mossberg Plinkster in a plastic AR-looking shell.

Again, I can only speak to my experience with a CMMG. All failures I've had have been ammo-related, which is par for the course with rimfires. I've found the reliability to be equal to a Ruger 10/22, and considerably better than a Remington 552. I'm not sure of the "well" you speak of to trap spent brass. My CMMG has a 9mm-style brass deflector and a solid charging handle. There is nowhere for spent brass to go but out of the gun.

Ergos of an AR .22 aren't better than a non-AR. There isn't enough recoil for bore line to make any difference. The charging handle is designed for a completely different cartridge and doesn't map well to the rim fire. Pistol grip ergos are different but not conclusively "better".

All personal opinion. I definitely prefer the rotating selector of an AR (to a push button safety as found on most semi-auto rimfires), the mag release, and the options for adjustable stocks and pistol grips. To each his own.

Six pounds is arguably too heavy for a 3000+ fps .22, which is why you can buy carbon fiber ARs. For an 1100fps .22 it is at least 2 pounds too heavy. The point of a take down rim fire is to have something small, light, and easy to bring along. Two pounds would be nice.

I'm not going to necessarily disagree with you here. For a pure "survival" rifle that you are traveling with and will only be shooting as a last resort, the lighter the better. For anything that you will be shooting for sport, I'll take a more useful gun every time. Again, no one usually thinks of an AR-15 as a "take-down gun" but it is an option I'm just pointing out.
 
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FWIW, my LR AR is probably my most accurate semi-auto .22LR... but when I compare it to my take-down bolt gun, built before my father was born and well used as it is, well, the glow fades.

My LR AR is a regular AR upper with no gas system, chambered for .22LR, and with a different bolt assembly. Beyond that it's pretty normal...forward assist, dust cover, etc. The .22LR marked lower has a buffer tube with spring and everything, though the buffer isn't used. It uses a standard AR fire control group and a full size mag well. If you pull back on the charging handle it eventually hooks a spur on the bolt and draws it back. If there was a round from the chamber it will be held to the bolt face by two claws until the bolt has moved back far enough to hit a stop at the buffer tube. At that point the cartridge is directly over the fcg. The stop actually impacts the firing pin. The firing pin transmits that stoppage to the cartridge. In normal operation, one claw lets loose first because of the firing pin position and the brass goes out the full size ejection port. If you are not firm with it in manual operation it will dislodge the brass and drop it onto the hammer, where it can roll into a little pocket (well) and jam.

Agreed on personal opinion...but that opinion is based on using the same tool. That means the ergos are not universally better.
 
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