Fast Frank
Member
Just a little "Family Pic" for you guys.
The Marlin 39 Club
- Thread starter AStone
- Start date
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AStone
Member
Now that's just plum pretty.
Nice family.
Hey, ever thought of putting a target set up on that brick wall?
What is that ... 12 yds? Maybe 15?
Make it out of logs, hay bales and phone books.
Keep it down low, close to the ground,
use short subsonics (at least with the 39
),
nobody'd ever know ...
And with those scopes, at 15 yds, you ought to be able to
make one slightly-jagged hole with about 10 rnds.
Excellent practice for a post card match.
Nice family.
Hey, ever thought of putting a target set up on that brick wall?
What is that ... 12 yds? Maybe 15?
Make it out of logs, hay bales and phone books.
Keep it down low, close to the ground,
use short subsonics (at least with the 39
), nobody'd ever know ...
And with those scopes, at 15 yds, you ought to be able to
make one slightly-jagged hole with about 10 rnds.
Excellent practice for a post card match.
Deer Hunter
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2005
- Messages
- 4,097
Frank's perimeter is set fast against Zombies. My kinda man!
Fast Frank
Member
Yeah, we feel pretty safe here. The bad guys can't even see us!
As far as shooting in the yard goes...
No thanks. I could probably pull it off, but it would absolutely cost me my CHL if I got caught..
I've done it with my pellet gun.
Warlokke
Member
Need buying advice ASAP
Hi guys,
Just got offered a 1953 model 39A Marlin in great shape. Original owner died and grandson is selling since he is not into firearms. Grandson wants $300 for the rifle.
Is this a decent price for a 1953 model 39A in great shape (clear, sharp rifling and clean with no rust, just some wearing on the blueing from use)?
Thanks in advance for the advice......
Hi guys,
Just got offered a 1953 model 39A Marlin in great shape. Original owner died and grandson is selling since he is not into firearms. Grandson wants $300 for the rifle.
Is this a decent price for a 1953 model 39A in great shape (clear, sharp rifling and clean with no rust, just some wearing on the blueing from use)?
Thanks in advance for the advice......
Jaguar
Member
I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
Warlokke
Member
Believe me it is tempting me in an awful way....I am just a hair away from running to the bank and getting cash to tempt him with, maybe even get a lower price.
Also, I just ran the serial number and it is a 1950, not a 1953 like he thought it was (G prefix serial number).
Keep the comments coming and let me know if there is anything I need to check for other than what I all ready have mentioned. I have a couple of hours before I can get away from work and go see him about the rifle.
Also, I just ran the serial number and it is a 1950, not a 1953 like he thought it was (G prefix serial number).
Keep the comments coming and let me know if there is anything I need to check for other than what I all ready have mentioned. I have a couple of hours before I can get away from work and go see him about the rifle.
I dunno, that seems like a whole lot to pay for such an old rifle.
Kidding! It's not a bad price at all. Not a great price mind you, but not bad for a 3rd Model in good condition. Do you recall if it had a white spacer next to the buttplate?
Kidding! It's not a bad price at all. Not a great price mind you, but not bad for a 3rd Model in good condition. Do you recall if it had a white spacer next to the buttplate?
Fast Frank
Member
I'll guarantee you this- There are some people here that paid a LOT more than $300.00 for their model 39.
If it's in good shape I wouldn't feel bad about the price, and I'm sure you can get that money back if you decide not to keep it.
I say buy it!
If it's in good shape I wouldn't feel bad about the price, and I'm sure you can get that money back if you decide not to keep it.
I say buy it!
AStone
Member
Warlokke, I'm far from an expert on used rifles of any kind - I'll defer to the experts on things you should check out first - but I gotta agree with our friends here about this one. $300 seems a reasonable price if indeed it's in as good a shape as you think it is. Especially if there's no rust or pitting in the barrel, the bluing is still sound, and the furniture is nice.
Have you tried cycling a few unshot rnds through it just to check of ejector problems? (That is, load a few rounds, and cycle them through without firing them, keeping the gun pointed in a safe direction (e.g., into the ground in the back yard) for safety.)
Given that my new one cost me $470 (and I had to drive two hours to get it), if it was me, I'd offer $275, but would probably still take it for $300 if that was rejected. My sense is, they're built so well, especially the older ones, that if anything minor is wrong, a smith could fix it up for less than you could buy a new one for.
Please keep us posted about your decision.
Nem
Have you tried cycling a few unshot rnds through it just to check of ejector problems? (That is, load a few rounds, and cycle them through without firing them, keeping the gun pointed in a safe direction (e.g., into the ground in the back yard) for safety.)
Given that my new one cost me $470 (and I had to drive two hours to get it), if it was me, I'd offer $275, but would probably still take it for $300 if that was rejected. My sense is, they're built so well, especially the older ones, that if anything minor is wrong, a smith could fix it up for less than you could buy a new one for.
Please keep us posted about your decision.
Nem
Warlokke
Member
Thanks guys for all the advice and suggestions. Due to my work schedule I will meet and fondle...er, inspect and critically review the 39a tomorrow afternoon. I plan to check out the rifling with my borelight and take it apart to check for interior wear and cleanliness. I will cycle some rounds thru it to check for smoothness as well, and, if it is OK and we are where we can do so, I will even shoot some rounds thru it for accuracy and functioning.
Based on that, is there anything in particular I should closely inspect...I mean are there any specific problem areas (other than rust, wear, broken parts and other obvious stuff) that would stand out if the rifle had been abused, dissassembled/reassembled improperly, or mistreated?
I am not an expert but am a fair to middlin' rifleman and have spent most of my life around weapons. I have a pretty sharp eye, so other than the usual, is there anything I might not be aware of specific to this year, model and make that I ought to look for?
Once again, I appreciate all the tips and advice.
Based on that, is there anything in particular I should closely inspect...I mean are there any specific problem areas (other than rust, wear, broken parts and other obvious stuff) that would stand out if the rifle had been abused, dissassembled/reassembled improperly, or mistreated?
I am not an expert but am a fair to middlin' rifleman and have spent most of my life around weapons. I have a pretty sharp eye, so other than the usual, is there anything I might not be aware of specific to this year, model and make that I ought to look for?
Once again, I appreciate all the tips and advice.
I can't think of anything that you haven't mentioned that you should pay attention to. If you can test fire it, that would be a real plus. Check the crown for any nicks. Be sure to take it apart and check for any obvious signs of problems inside. I don't see a need to remove the firing pin block or anything like that.
Be aware that 39's had Ballard rifling in that era, just in case you were expecting to see the usual Microgroove rifling. I think the jury is still out even after more than 40 years as to whether Microgroove rifling makes a big difference.
Be aware that 39's had Ballard rifling in that era, just in case you were expecting to see the usual Microgroove rifling. I think the jury is still out even after more than 40 years as to whether Microgroove rifling makes a big difference.
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,663
Other than damage to the wood, rusty metal, broken butt plates, and non-factory holes in the receiver or barrel, some things to look for are:
A 1950 "G" serial Third Model will have wood that fits the tangs like it grew there.
There should be no gaps, chips, or missing wood, and the wood should be almost perfectly fitted to the metal.
These old Marlin's had the stock final fitted by heating the tangs almost red hot, then pressing the wood on to "burn in" the final fit.
Accept that over the years there may be some damage to the wood, even some missing small chips.
Stocks that have noticeable gaps or are "stepped down" around the tangs indicate a stock that's been sanded down.
The finish originally was an oil finish, NOT a varnish-like surface finish.
"Dinked up" screw heads indicating Billy Bob has had it apart.
It's not unusual to see damage to the large take-down screw.
Look for stripped or cross-threaded screws in the fore end cap.
The cap comes off easily, but can be Hell to get back on. It's not unusual to see these with cross-threaded or stripped screws.
Look for damage to the right lower rear of the bolt.
When people disassemble the 39-A they often forget to cock the hammer and damage the rear right corner of the bolt when the two receiver halves are separated.
Inspect the barrel carefully. If the dealer will allow, run a patch down.
Look for pitting and a damaged or worn muzzle.
Check the chamber for pitting or a ring corroded in the chamber from firing lots of shorts.
Don't mistake normal chamber fouling for a ringed chamber.
A 1950 "G" serial Third Model will have wood that fits the tangs like it grew there.
There should be no gaps, chips, or missing wood, and the wood should be almost perfectly fitted to the metal.
These old Marlin's had the stock final fitted by heating the tangs almost red hot, then pressing the wood on to "burn in" the final fit.
Accept that over the years there may be some damage to the wood, even some missing small chips.
Stocks that have noticeable gaps or are "stepped down" around the tangs indicate a stock that's been sanded down.
The finish originally was an oil finish, NOT a varnish-like surface finish.
"Dinked up" screw heads indicating Billy Bob has had it apart.
It's not unusual to see damage to the large take-down screw.
Look for stripped or cross-threaded screws in the fore end cap.
The cap comes off easily, but can be Hell to get back on. It's not unusual to see these with cross-threaded or stripped screws.
Look for damage to the right lower rear of the bolt.
When people disassemble the 39-A they often forget to cock the hammer and damage the rear right corner of the bolt when the two receiver halves are separated.
Inspect the barrel carefully. If the dealer will allow, run a patch down.
Look for pitting and a damaged or worn muzzle.
Check the chamber for pitting or a ring corroded in the chamber from firing lots of shorts.
Don't mistake normal chamber fouling for a ringed chamber.
Fast Frank
Member
Don't forget to post pics. ('Cause WE already know you're going to buy it)
Just in time to shoot the 39 postal match, too!
Just in time to shoot the 39 postal match, too!
Warlokke
Member
Well, I bought it! I paid $275 cash out the door. It will take me some time to post pics but as soon as I can figure it out and get them taken I will. The more I inspect it, the better it gets. White spacer is there but bullseye is gone, looks like it fell out cause the hardened sticky stuff in the hole is real old. All the blueing is in fantastic shape, almost unbelieveable shape, but has light wear where you would expect it. The furniture is rock-solid with just a few light scratches and scrapes; no varnish just good oiled wood with a very faint shine. Bore is pristine with no bulging and is clean as a whistle - same with the action. Rifle came apart without problems and the inside looks like it has only been shot very little. The only flaw I can detect is the forearm has a slight bit of side to side play in it. I am taking it to the range on Saturday and will shake it out. I didn't get a chance to fire it, but the man I bought it from agreed to give me a week to fire it and I can return it if I find anything wrong with it - you just don't get more square than that. I will post more after Saturday, but I am very excited and look forward to some fun on the range. It should also fit my 12 year old daughter perfectly!!!!
AStone
Member
W'Lok, this is great news. Made me smile big for the first time today.
Congrats. Great deal. Ya done well.
Can't wait to see pics.
tubeshooter
Contributing Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2006
- Messages
- 2,160
Congratulations! I'm sure you will be very pleased...
$275 is a steal, to say the least, even if it's only in "decent" shape.
$275 is a steal, to say the least, even if it's only in "decent" shape.
Jaguar
Member
Like I said, I'd buy it in a heartbeat, but I'd offer $250 first.
Sounds like you got a good deal, I hope it shakes out well and it sounds like the guy you are dealing with is a good man. So here is what you need to do, take a few 3x5 index cards to the range with you and put some holes in em. Then join us in our postcard match. You can find all the details here, and don't forget to let your 12 years old daughter put some rounds downrange. She can even shoot in the postcard match.
Congratulations welcome to 'the family'.
~Jeff
Sounds like you got a good deal, I hope it shakes out well and it sounds like the guy you are dealing with is a good man. So here is what you need to do, take a few 3x5 index cards to the range with you and put some holes in em. Then join us in our postcard match. You can find all the details here, and don't forget to let your 12 years old daughter put some rounds downrange. She can even shoot in the postcard match.
Congratulations welcome to 'the family'.
~Jeff
Fast Frank
Member
Warlokke said:
Told ya!
Welcome to the 39 club!
Fast Frank
Member
something different to talk about?
I saw a thread today about hot VS cold rifles.
It got me to thinking.
My 39 shifts it's point of aim as it heats up.
Oddly, I don't remember the one my dad had doing that.
My new rifle is scoped, and the old one wasn't, but I don't think that has much to do with it because I was young when I shot the older rifle and my eyes were much better. I could shoot groups as good and maybe better with that rifle.
So what about you guys?
Does your 39 shift it's point of impact as it heats up?
I saw a thread today about hot VS cold rifles.
It got me to thinking.
My 39 shifts it's point of aim as it heats up.
Oddly, I don't remember the one my dad had doing that.
My new rifle is scoped, and the old one wasn't, but I don't think that has much to do with it because I was young when I shot the older rifle and my eyes were much better. I could shoot groups as good and maybe better with that rifle.
So what about you guys?
Does your 39 shift it's point of impact as it heats up?
Been a member of the 336 club for about 20 years now. One of my favorite deer rifles, use it while stalking because it is light and handy. It's got a low power variable Leupold VXI scope on it.
She has a couple dings and scrapes, but those add charactor and remind me of the good times.
She has a couple dings and scrapes, but those add charactor and remind me of the good times.
AStone
Member
Hey JaxJim, glad you've joined us.
However, I think you may be looking for the 336 club, over here.
This is the 39 club. There's a lot of us in both, so it's easy to get them mixed up.
If you've got a 39 also, or are just curious about them, hang out.
_________
Frank, because of that FTF issue that put my 39 in the smithospital months ago (and I still don't have it back),
I haven't been able to shoot my 39 enough yet to know if barrel heating is going to be an issue.
Looking forward to reading more about that so I'll know what to expect.
However, I think you may be looking for the 336 club, over here.
This is the 39 club. There's a lot of us in both, so it's easy to get them mixed up.
If you've got a 39 also, or are just curious about them, hang out.
_________
Frank, because of that FTF issue that put my 39 in the smithospital months ago (and I still don't have it back),
I haven't been able to shoot my 39 enough yet to know if barrel heating is going to be an issue.
Looking forward to reading more about that so I'll know what to expect.
Fast Frank
Member
I'm taking my 39 to the range tomorrow...
I'm going to try this experiment.
I'm going to mark five different aim points.
I will shoot five shot strings and cool the rifle between strings.
I will always shoot the first shot at the first aim point, the second shot at number two, and etc.
I will do this ten times for a total of 50 shots.
This will produce distinct groups.
Then, I can compare a ten shot group of all cool first shots with similar groups from a barrel heated by multiple shots.
Then we will see what the results are.
Anybody care to predict what's going to happen?
I'm going to try this experiment.
I'm going to mark five different aim points.
I will shoot five shot strings and cool the rifle between strings.
I will always shoot the first shot at the first aim point, the second shot at number two, and etc.
I will do this ten times for a total of 50 shots.
This will produce distinct groups.
Then, I can compare a ten shot group of all cool first shots with similar groups from a barrel heated by multiple shots.
Then we will see what the results are.
Anybody care to predict what's going to happen?
Fast Frank
Member
So I'm rooting around in the bottom of the safe looking for some bullets for tomorrow, right?
There it is... A fresh brick of Remington golden bullets. My 39 likes these.
Oh look... here's some nice specs printed on the side of the box.
WOW!
It says here that I can sight in at 50 yards and the bullet will only be 1.8" low at a hundred yards!
That's some super-dooper bullets right there, I don't care who you are!
There it is... A fresh brick of Remington golden bullets. My 39 likes these.
Oh look... here's some nice specs printed on the side of the box.
WOW!
It says here that I can sight in at 50 yards and the bullet will only be 1.8" low at a hundred yards!
That's some super-dooper bullets right there, I don't care who you are!
AStone
Member
Science comes to the 39 Club. Very cool.
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