What is a good car gun either a compact one or full size model??

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1stmarine said:
buy a gun that is reliable, that feels good to you and that you shoot very well. that is the best gun to buy. Caliber doesn't matter that much if you are concern about penetration trough glass/doors then get solid copper bullets at decent speeds. I use 357 SIG in full size. Full size makes sense here as well as 9mm +P since it is all about speed. For a compat a 40 or 45 would be a nice option.
Again whatever you shoot best with.

Then think about this. Lets say you carry a glock 17 with 10x17 rounds magazines in the glove compartment. If you have a keltec Sub in the trunk they share mags so you can switch for self defense and put extra speed and accuracy in those bullets.

Also train as you fight.
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.22 LR, .25 ACP or .32 ACP?
 
I am not familiar with Tokarev 7.62x25. Are they sold in US? Readily available along with ammo?
cost?
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It's a surplus Russian sidearm and very effective.

Very inexpensive and available from multiple sources. Just google them.
gun:http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.../6342?osCsid=a785e92a1a2d64bbabb01efa126fd643

The surplus ammo is currently available, but more expensive than it was 6 months ago.
http://classicarms.us/

However, Wolf Gold HP ammo is not expensive, and it's currently available, too. And it penetrates.

Ballistics on 7.62x25 are impressive as it cooks along around 1600fps.

I used mine as a car gun before I found a deal on the .40 Sigma that I couldn't pass up.
 
If I was going to buy a truck gun, I wouldn't really want to spend a lot of money in case it gets stollen. For a cheap pistol, I'd go with a sigma if you can get past the trigger. Stoegar cougars are nice for the price. I think you would want something with relatively low muzzle flip if you are shooting out of a car window at a jacker, so why not .45 acp. I think if you are shooting through vehicle barriers, you may be considered excessive in your "self defense" when in court. If your assailant is now under cover, why aren't you driving away from this person, and why are you still shooting at them? With that thought in mind, I think I'd want a .357 like a S&W 686+ loaded with .38's. Less chance of going def from discharging in a car, no brass flying around to distract you, the recoil will be more manageable than .357, and you have seven shots to stop your jacker, or scare them enough to give you time to drive away. That is an expensive gun to leave in your vehicle though. Maybe a cheepy Charter arms .38 would work. Maybe a SP101 as a compromise?
 
I keep a Sig P6 (9x19) in my center console. I just bought a Winchester 94AE in .30-30 to keep in the trunk in case the situation calls for it.
 
Get a high point in near anything. It's cheap enough where you won't worry about it that much, and ugly enough where you won't develop an emotional attachment to it.
 
460Kodiak said:
If I was going to buy a truck gun, I wouldn't really want to spend a lot of money in case it gets stollen. For a cheap pistol, I'd go with a sigma if you can get past the trigger. Stoegar cougars are nice for the price. I think you would want something with relatively low muzzle flip if you are shooting out of a car window at a jacker, so why not .45 acp. I think if you are shooting through vehicle barriers, you may be considered excessive in your "self defense" when in court. If your assailant is now under cover, why aren't you driving away from this person, and why are you still shooting at them? With that thought in mind, I think I'd want a .357 like a S&W 686+ loaded with .38's. Less chance of going def from discharging in a car, no brass flying around to distract you, the recoil will be more manageable than .357, and you have seven shots to stop your jacker, or scare them enough to give you time to drive away. That is an expensive gun to leave in your vehicle though. Maybe a cheepy Charter arms .38 would work. Maybe a SP101 as a compromise?
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SP-101 is nice in .357. Shoot through the door to stop them sooner.
 
doc540 said:
It's a surplus Russian sidearm and very effective.

Very inexpensive and available from multiple sources. Just google them.
gun:http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.../6342?osCsid=a785e92a1a2d64bbabb01efa126fd643

The surplus ammo is currently available, but more expensive than it was 6 months ago.
http://classicarms.us/

However, Wolf Gold HP ammo is not expensive, and it's currently available, too. And it penetrates.

Ballistics on 7.62x25 are impressive as it cooks along around 1600fps.

I used mine as a car gun before I found a deal on the .40 Sigma that I couldn't pass up.
Click to expand...
Great price. Very strange looking gun. What is it equivalent to in American calibers i.e. 9mm, .380?
 
doc540 said:
It's a surplus Russian sidearm and very effective.

Very inexpensive and available from multiple sources. Just google them.
gun:http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.../6342?osCsid=a785e92a1a2d64bbabb01efa126fd643

The surplus ammo is currently available, but more expensive than it was 6 months ago.
http://classicarms.us/

However, Wolf Gold HP ammo is not expensive, and it's currently available, too. And it penetrates.

Ballistics on 7.62x25 are impressive as it cooks along around 1600fps.

I used mine as a car gun before I found a deal on the .40 Sigma that I couldn't pass up.
Click to expand...
What is a Sigma .40? Never heard of that brand.
 
So a Sigma .40 is made by Smith & Wesson which means it an expensive gun too expensive for the car.:confused:
 
You should go to the BOXOTRUTH site and see the section where they shoot up a Buick, a pretty solid one. The overall lesson is that cars, especially the doors, offer very little protection from gunfire, including the lighter calibers.
 
vellocet said:
you should go to the boxotruth site and see the section where they shoot up a buick, a pretty solid one. The overall lesson is that cars, especially the doors, offer very little protection from gunfire, including the lighter calibers.
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if one wants least amount of muzzle flash and blast from going death a .22 lr should be perfect.
 
It really troubles me when posts like this get started and everyone starts offering advice about the best bullets to shoot through cars with without first asking WHY THIS GUY WANTS TO SHOOT PEOPLE WHO ARE IN CARS !!!! THE HIGH ROAD should not offer advice to people who ask squirrely questions like this until we are sure we are not offering advice to someone does not have good intentions.
 
So if someone is shooting you from a car or even chasing you and you cannot get away you won't shoot at them in their car to stop them asap?
Who wants to shoot people in cars?:confused:
And so if you want a good car gun I don't think an AK-47 or 12 gauge would fit for all to see so then they steal it and use it for some unlawful purpose.:what:
 
Invest in a way to secure your carry gun in such a way in any event that may occur (to include getting rammed) You have a gun available.
Keep your carry gun available to you as you dive and secure.
But
The best weapon you have is your car or truck. Take it out on the weekend and do some drills with it. An F150 does a lot more damage to someone outside your vehicle than any handgun round.
But
You could have the ideal weapon , but after being rammed or rear ended, if it ends up under the seat it is less useful than a boat anchor at that point.
The point I am trying to make is if you have to drive then drive like heck and make your opponents speed bumps.
If you have to shoot have a gun that you carry everyday and practise with available in a secure position within the vehicle that you can index and fire.
I believe there were some FBI agents that made some seriously poor tactical decisions like this and paid the price for it in Fla.
 
An [strike]F150[/strike] Saturn SL2, Chevy aveo, Kia rio, or any vehicle does a lot more damage to someone outside your vehicle than any handgun round.
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When you stop caring about scratching the paint, any vehicle becomes quite a weapon, even my bike is a serious danger to someone threatening me while I'm on it (well, mostly to their hearing, unless I bowl them over I'll just be exiting the situation rapidly)

Your vehicle is a weapon
A weapon on your person is a weapon
Transporting a tool does not make it a weapon, and a cased handgun is simply a tool in a box, of no particular use to anyone but a thief.

Drawing from a belt holster from under the seatbelt isn't that hard, just carry your sidearm.
 
I think this guy has been watching too many Terminator movies on Netflix. If someone is driving by and shooting at you, just F'ing DUCK! The only people who I see having a real need to penetrate car windows/doors is law enforcement, because they have to approach so many vehicles.
 
A .50 water cooled machinegun would work as a car gun. You could tap off the car's radiator to keep it cooled. I'd recommend a roof mount braced by a roll bar. If you have a moon roof you could avoid cutting a hole in the car's top. The large opening of a moon roof would facilitate clearing jams and feeding in new belts. Best would be a fixed mount. A lighter .30 caliber set up would be better for a small car such as a Prius or Smartcar.
 
I'm not sure what the OP's intent is, but I take a car or truck gun to be something inexpensive that can be stashed in your vehicle. Over the summer I bought this Star Super pistol in 9mm Largo. It cost me $179, so if it gets stolen I'm not out much. 9mm Largo can be loaded close to .38 Super pressures in this particular model of pistol. It's running about 1350 FPS with 115 grain XTP's.

It is my "car gun". It stays in my car with a couple of spare mags. It's lubed up with Eezox and has shown no signs of deterioration even in the very wet conditions here.

That's my idea of of a car gun. I drive an SUV. If I were driving a truck, I'd probably consider a carbine or shotgun fixed behind the seat as a better alternative.

Super3.jpg
 
The best "compromise" gun for me personally, in a car, on the bed stand, in a boat or CC is the Sig 239.

3.6" bbl
accurately shoots out to 25 yds +
carries nicely
packs a punch
small enough to conceal easily in a car/truck holster
for an Xtra $190 bbl can shoot two calibers with the same mags
No-rust alloy frame, ss slide, and bbl coating is very good--hasn't shown any signs of corrosion
keeps on tick'n
 
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