Features to look for in Snub Nosed Rovolver

[Mightee1]

What should I look for when buying a snub nosed revolver for concealed carry? I am currently considering many factors (price, weight, caliber, exposed / internal hammer, steel / polymer frame, capacity, etc). I was just hoping to get some more info about what other people look for in a carry gun.

Right now I am leaning towards a cheaper .357 6 shot revolver (think Charter Arms or a used _________....). Money isn’t a huge issue but the wallet isn’t too thick if you know what I mean; times are tight.

 

[msb45]

I would stay away from a small (j-frame) .357 from experience. I have one and it is brutal to shoot. Do yourself a favor and look for a used S&W Mdl 65/66. It's a mid-sized .357 that is shootable. Many people consider them the best.

If you heart is set on a small snub then go .38 and save some $. Been there and done it.

 

[Low Budget Shooter]

Dear Mightee1,

If you were talking about a medium or large frame revolver, I think .357 would be great. But if you're talking about a small frame revolver for concealed carry, I would forget .357 and go with .38 special. The snubby revolver minimizes all of the .357's advantages and maximizes all its disadvantages!

I know from experience that a concealed or bobbed hammer gun works better for me than one with a regular hammer, for drawing out from under a cover garment, and especially for drawing from a pocket. But the difference is slight, not pronounced.

For shooting at the range, the all-steel gun is nicer, but for carry all the time, one of the aluminum-frame guns is nicer.

No good, honest, upright person should ever get a polymer revolver. They are immoral and will lead to the disintegration of our civilization. But everyone says the Ruger LCRs have a nice trigger out of the box, so maybe . . .

I hope this unbiased, objective reply will help.

LBS

 

[wlewisiii]

If you go 357 over .38 Special, be sure to get a steel framed revolver. It'll still be a bear to shoot heavy loads in but it's nowhere near as bad.

If you really want a snubby, I'd suggest a stainless steel one from Taurus myself - I had one, liked it well enough but sold it in favor of a 4" S&W 64 which I think is a much better carry piece than any snubby but that's my opinion. YMWV.

 

[TexasBill]

You're going to carry this gun for self-defense? And you want to penny-pinch? Sorry, but I place a higher value on my life: I want a good gun. I have two S&W J-frames, a Model 60 .357 Magnum with a 3-inch barrel and a Model 637 Airweight .38 Special +P with a 1 7/8-inch barrel.

Avoid the scandium .357s; they will punish you. I have read reports of shooters having bloody hands after shooting Magnum loads through a lightweight snubbie. Even +P loads through the Airweights will get your attention. That being said, my 637 is probably my most constant companion among all my handguns. I just load it with a good .38 Special and all is well with the world. I can put a couple of boxes of ammo through it during a trip to the range. If you want hammerless, go with the 642. Either one should be well under $500.00 and you get a lifetime warranty.

The Model 60, being stainless steel, is heavier, but much more controllable. The same is true of the Ruger SP101. In a decent holster, either one should be comfortable to carry all day. I also like the larger grips on the Model 60. I dumped the Uncle Mike's Boot Grips on my 637 and replaced them with grips for the Model 60 Pro. They're about a half-inch longer, but that half-inch lets me get my little finger on the grip and that also aids control.

Taurus is better than it was, but their quality is still a bit uneven and their customer support apparently has some issues. Based on the experiences of friends, I would also steer clear of Charter Arms. Ruger and Smith & Wesson are still the names to look for and you can often find a good deal on a good used model.

 

[dogngun]

I have owned a lot of snubbies over the last 40+ years -

If I were to buy another .357 magnum snubbie, I would NOT get a "light weight" version of anything...they are great to carry, but not fun to shoot - I don't even like lightweight snubs in .38 Spl. The short revolvers are very accurate if you practice with them and practice fundamentals like consistant grip and sight picture, but I shoot the steel frames much better than the airweights, and really don't mind the wright difference. Also, a steel frame gun will usually be less expensive than an airweight version.

I'd recommend ANY used Smith or Ruger over a Charter Arms unles it has been PROVEN reliable. The best thing is th handle the guns and see what fits you best - with the snubs, that is very important - some hands just don't fit some guns. I'd also go with a .38 Spl over the Magnum.

If you would consider a .38 Special, check the ARMSCOR 200 series - they are very inexpensive new (Centerfire Systems),
ARMSCOR bought the rights from Colt to make them based on the last versions of the Colt Detective Special/Trooper 6 shot revolvers...they have coil springs and frame mounted firing pins and are very good revolvers - ARMSCOR stands behind them as well (They make Rock Island 1911's)...


mark

added; My only .357 magnum is an old S&W Highway Patrolman 4" N frame, and I have pachmayer rubber grips on that... a magnum snub is NO FUN, and I can guarantee youu will shoot specials out of it 99% of the time anyway...at great cost, too...

 

[Quoheleth]

A great carry gun is the Ruger LCR in .38 Special (+P rated). It's very light, has a great trigger, and is a breeze to carry. A trick I learned is to choke up high on the grips so that the web of your thumb is at the top or just over the top of the Hogue grip. It drives recoil straight back into your hand but is very controllable that way.

A second option, if you prefer steel and want to consider .357, is Ruger's SP101. It's larger than a Smith J-frame and not as big as a K-frame. I think their 3" barrel also makes a great carry gun, or you can get the 2" barrel; bobbed hammer or regular DA/SA hammer. It's relatively heavy but if you need .357 power, those ounces will make shooting it more bearable. Plus, it's mass makes it a nice plinking or field gun.

Both are in the low $400 range.

Q

 

[gordy]

I would have to say check out a S&W 642 or a 442.
Light to carry, Less than a pound, no hammer to get stuck on clothing.
+p rated. And it is made to last.
You won't be shooting it hundreds of rounds at a time as they are not a range gun, it is ment too get used to it and carried, If you want to have a gun that is heavier, than look at the ruger sp 101, good guns and are heavier, this will help if you can't handle a bit of recoil.
The S&W are not as bad to shoot as some of the nasayers would have you think. If you know someone who has one ask to shoot it, same with one of the rugers. Make your own choice and run with it.
I own a S&W 642 and it is by far the best 38 to have.

 

[joshk-k]

I know this is a rarity, but if you can find something with adjustable sights, that would be nice. I have a Taurus .38 snubby, and it's my only regret about it is not being able to adjust the sights. It's not crazy far off as far as POA/POI goes, but I'd rather it be right on. My goal was to get a used S&W, but that ended up falling through and I got this instead.

JOsh

 

[RONSERESURPLUS]

Hello all, RON L here

Indeed, I have to agree with many other posters here and say go with a proven Quality made Snub, as well, Great comments on the Armscorp Model 206, I have owned a few of Armscorps revolvers a 4" Model 200 and a 2" Model 206, both were great guns and only sold them off due to $ problems and not any falure of the firearms, I still retain a Rock island 45 and love it! I got a great deal on a S & W Model 36, as the guy had it robarted it, before he understood the loss of collector value, so I picked it up at a good $! I've had and shot a Lot of Charters, as well as a few of the other cheaper Snubs out there and think, that you'd be better served with a used anything like S&W or Colt, Over a Charter or a unknown gun, like a used Rossi or taurus that sometimes do work fine, but many times do not? Seen way too many folks with Quality control issues on Chharter arms to trust another one and Taurus is another company I have always liked but now, if I get a used one, I want to test it before I buy? Thats just how it is, do your homework, do some testing and searchingt, many used revolvers out there for sale as most want the latest Tacti-Cool" gun and these do show upo time to time at a decent $? I'd avid 357 in a snub, not enough return for way to much Blast, Muzzle Flash and all, I've tried +P in a few revolvers and that was bad enough, I'm, not a fan of 357 in a snub by experience! Try it and see? Go to a Range that does rentals and try one, I feel you will agree after that experince? if not, good for you?


RON

 

[Taildragger-J3]

Just another ring of the bell for a .38 over the .357 in a snub. I have read a number of posts where people have had less than good results from Taurus, but I've got several of their guns and all have been good for me. I like stainless for a carry piece, just because it's hot down here and I sweat big time.

 

[BADUNAME37]

I have a Smith 642 that is an excellent gun. I don't load or typically shoot any barn-burner loads.

For me, it is a tossup of carrying my accurate Speer 158g Solid LSWCHP's, which are accurate and do not injure my hand if I should shoot many times or factory loads. Lately, I have been alternating between loading it with my reloads mentioned above and Speer 38 Special Designed for Short Barrels.

As with most revolvers, you want to check the timing, make sure when the cylinder is empty and you simulate firing a round (you can slowly let the hammer drop all the way with your finger all the way back on the trigger if the gun has an exposed hammer).

While the trigger is still pulled all the way rearward, try moving the cylinder, clockwise and counterclockwise. You should get very little or NO movement. The same should be true if you try to push the cylinder forward and back. It would be best to try this for each of the cylinder holes to make sure that any movement is minimal to none.

The notches in the cylinder should be cleanly-cut and not mushroomed in any way. The cylinder should rotate freely when the gate is closed without hitting the back of the barrel where the cylinder meets the barrel.

I could be wrong on the above, that is the way I learned to check a revolver.

 

[Lucky Derby]

Just my opinion, but with a barrel shorter than 3" the .357 doesn't offer enough advantage over the .38 to make it worth the noise, recoil and muzzle blast/flash. In fact in my 3" S&W M13 and 4" Colt Trooper I usually use the Buffalo Bore short barrel low flash tactical .357 ammo. If it is less than 3" I don't even bother with .357 and use the Buffalo Bore .38 FBI load.
I also have found that a lightweight snub such as the the S&W J frames in the airweight or airlight versions are great for pocket carry, or with a Barami Hip Grip for IWB. The steel frame versions of these revolvers don't work as well for this use. I personally prefer the Airwieght Bodyguard (M38) But the light Centennial revolvers are great for this as well. The Bodyguard offers the best of both, snag free, and can still be worked single action if needed/desired.
I have also found that a 3"-4" steel frame revolver such as the M13 and Trooper I mentioned above are as easy to carry with a good holster and belt as a shorter barrel and/or small frame revolver. I like having the extra round of the 6 shot and the better ballistics/accuracy of the longer barrel. So I have come to the conclusion that if in a belt holster I would rather have a Steel K frame size gun. If pocket carry then a lightwieght J frame size gun is what works best for me.
YMMV

 

[Zundfolge]

Unless it is your intention to pocket carry, I'd stay away from "lightweight" guns in general. With proper leather you can carry steel just as comfortably as aluminum/titanium/scadnium/polymer.

When I carry a wheel gun its a Dan Wesson 14-2 snubbie (heavy steel revolver slightly larger than a S&W K frame) and my Simply Rugged Sourdough holds it very nicely (and you can get them with straps for IWB carry).

You're going to carry this gun for self-defense? And you want to penny-pinch? Sorry, but I place a higher value on my life...

So why aren't you packing a Korth?


It might be useful for the OP to post a price range ... one man's "cheap" is another man's "expensive".

 

[Boxhead]

I'd search out a Ruger Security Six. They are still fairly reasonable, tough as nails (circles around a K Frame and I am a S&W devotee), easy to shoot whether magnums or not and damn accurate IME. A bit of clean up of the rough edges inside and all is good. It is my wife's piece now.

 

[Old John]

Stainless Steel Rugers, in .357..........

I have a couple of Ruger SP101's and a Ruger GP100 3"......all in .357 magnum. Yeah, .38's are okay, for practice.
But even a .357, 110 gr. HJLHP beats hel out of a .38 special.I carry .110's sometimes, or Golden Sabres or Silvertips. But always .357's for defense.
Shoot what you can handle, though.

 

[CajunBass]

You're going to carry this gun for self-defense? And you want to penny-pinch? Sorry, but I place a higher value on my life:

You just knew somebody had to say it.

 

[Lar1911]

I own about 22 guns. Revolvers and semi's

Dont get a big round in a small gun. My 45 Springfield 1911 w/3inch barrel is a lot. Same for revolvers

I have a Rossi w/2.5, I shoot it fairly often, had no problems. Its a 357, but I run 38 spls through it.

www.gunbroker.com

Check out guns on gunbroker. Look at a Bersa .380

 

[tension]

Smith & Wesson 642/442 .38 spl. Best compromise for concealed carry.

 

[rcmodel]

So why aren't you packing a Korth?

Because you see about as many Unicorns as Korths in real life use?

rc

 

[oldbear]

The snubby revolver minimizes all of the .357's advantages and maximizes all its disadvantages!

Good advise IMHO about 90% correct. The one main reason I carry and recommend the .357 snubby is its ability to safely shoot 38 special, 38 special +P, and +P+, also if needed .357 Magnum ammo. No matter how well made you can't do that with a 38 special.

 

[clang]

A good first concealed carry revolver would be a S&W Chief's Special Model 36. Plenty of affordable used guns on the market, reliable, all steel - but not too heavy, 38 Special.

You can probably find a servicable gun in the $300 range that will be more than adequate for you needs. For a little bit more, look at the Stainless version Model 60.

 

[Photoman]

Look for a used Smith & Wesson 642. Last one I picked up was $285. Looks like nine miles of bad road but shoots like a dream.

 

[riflenut]

snubnose

I too was looking for something easy to shoot and less expensive for a night stand and travelin handgun.I just purchased a mint condition used 38 sp. 2" blue rossi with nice pachymr grips for 219.00 . I own S&W and COLTS in 4" and 6" barrels, they are my fun guns for target shooting!

 

[chicharrones]

I can only speak from my own experience of pocket carry with a snubnose revolver.

I prefer - weight under 18 oz., no hammer spur, no grippy rubber grips, low drag non-adjustable sights, pocket holster, and .38 Special.

If you choose +P ammo in a gun like this, you will notice the recoil at the shooting range.

If you feel the need for an adjustable sight, you can try this. It's hard polymer and slick on the draw.