Features to look for in Snub Nosed Rovolver

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You can find things to quibble about among the variety, but really... if it works fine, that's about all that matters.


A lot of what you'll hear when you ask this is preference.
 
Value on your life?

Jeez.. here we go again. I'm glad so many people here actually have put a dollar value on their lives, whether it's $400, or $4,000. I have not yet come up with one on mine.

As I've said before: (excerpted from prior threads concerning people considering Taurus revolvers, but it applies to other, less "prestigious" makes as well.)

>>>Ask yourself "what's your life worth".. you'll hear this comment over and over again from the internet infantry, web warriors, and computer commandos, yet they're not buying new $40K+ cars every year to have the latest in safety when out and about. This is despite the fact that any one of us who operates a motor vehicle is much more likely to encounter a threat to our safety in doing so than one coming in the form of an aggressor (unless they're engaging in a risky lifestyle.)
For HD/SD, a Taurus that you know to function and do so well in your hands will do fine. Those same people who believe they should be armed at all times are, in fact, telling you to wait to be armed, aren't they? Remember the first rule of gunfighting, right? Have a gun!
More justifiable defensive shootings not involving LE or military personnel involve these so-called "lesser" arms than the Kahrs, Kimbers, Sigs, etc, because that's what people who live in the parts of the country more likely to contain these threats have. Most of the cases I've read up on that identified the defender's weapon type include Rossi .38s, Lorcin/Davis-type .25 and .380 pistols, no-name single-barrel or double-barrel shotguns, and various .22 and .32 caliber revolvers. These are the "beer-budget" arms people living "beer-budget" lives have when firearms isn't a pastime for them. I don't own a single firearm valued today at more than $400, but I trust any of the ones I keep for defensive purposes to do me as intended. They include a Taurus 4" 66 revolver, a Charter Arms Undercover .38, and a Bersa Thunder .380 pistol. The first is primarily a HD gun; one of the other two is on me at all (dressed) times. The two revolvers have been with me for well over two decades, and have always functioned properly.<<<

Edit: I have, since the first few times I've posted this, acquired another sub-$500 gun, a Kel-Tec PF-9, which also functions flawlessly, and is now my EDC.
 
Avoid the scandium .357s; they will punish you. I have read reports of shooters having bloody hands after shooting Magnum loads through a lightweight snubbie. Even +P loads through the Airweights will get your attention.
It is true that you can get a bloody hand -- it has happened to me several times with my S&W M&P 340CT when shooting 357 mag (not even full house 357 mag but the Gold Dot Short Barrel variety). What happens is the thin hard grips abrade the skin off the web of my thumb. Yet I have this gun on my person more than any of my other guns because I value it's light weight and concealability. It's all a trade off.
 
As many others have said, the answer here is clear - "S&W 642". I have shot Taurus snubs, and some of them have been just fine. Ruger Sp101 is another fine gun.

I have two snubnose .38 revolvers. I won't have a tiny, five-shot, airweight or scandium .357. Ridiculous thing to do to myself. If I get a short-barrelled .357, it will be a model 19 S&W or a Ruger SP101.

That said, as far as what models you might look at, the features you should look for depend on your priorities. Myself, I want a gun that is easy to pack, that won't rust, that won't snag when I draw it, and that won't beat the crap out of me when I shoot it -- I might need to shoot fast follow-up shots.

Easy to pack for me means 2" barrels, small frame (J-Frame or similar), and preferably light weight (aluminum frame) to keep from dragging down my trousers too much.

Not rusting when I carry the thing right next to my skin all the time, or in my pocket, or in a SmartCarry holster, means a coating or stainless. Stainless is less hassle than trying to figure out which coating to use.

Not snagging means fixed sights (ramp or round front) and bobbed/concealed hammer spur, with no extra crap attached to it/hanging off it.

Not beating me up in a small framed, short-barrelled revolver means that even if I end up with a gun chambered for .357, the gun will *never* see a .357 load. .38 Special, .32 H&R Magnum, or something like that is much more reasonable.

The gun I carry most is a S&W 642. I've had it for over six years, and it has a dry-fired smooth trigger. It meets all of my criteria at least adequately. It weighs one pound loaded, and a Bianchi Speed Strip with an extra six rounds only weighs a few ounces more, and is flat and compact, so I can slip it into any pocket I might need to use. It is stainless and aluminum, so it will not rust, no matter what carry method I use. The hammer is completely enclosed, and it has tiny fixed sights, so there is nothing to snag on. The thing is all smooth, rounded curves.

To make it easier to shoot, I have painted the front sight red, and the tiny square outline in the sight channel black, so I have as much contrast as I can without spending a ton of money getting a tritium insert put in the front sight ramp. I also added Goncalvo Alves banana grips to it because they make it much easier to shoot since they are long enough to allow a full grip and are slick, smooth wood so they (again) don't snag on anything, and don't abrade the skin under recoil -- meeting two of my criteria of not snagging on things and not beating me up when I shoot it. I keep the rubber boot grips handy so I can swap them out whenever the banana grip length is too much.

So, if I were buying another right now, I would probably just duplicate the 642 I have right now, except I would look for a 642-1 instead of the 642-2 I currently have to get away from the trigger lock. I have found a use for the trigger lock - I usually lock it when I check it when I fly, or if I have to leave it at a family member's house when travelling, but since it's in a lockbox in either case anyway, it's pretty much an unneeded, redundant thing.

642-1, with the grips that suit you best, a pocket holster (Galco Horsehide, Mika round cut), and a couple of Bianchi Speed Strips would be what I would sugggest.
 
LBS said:

No good, honest, upright person should ever get a polymer revolver. They are immoral and will lead to the disintegration of our civilization.

Thank you for making me laugh this evening. Now I will slink away and put my little poly pocket gun back in the safe so I can try to save what's left of my dignity. :D
 
I carry my S&W 442 everyday. It is the perfect weight and size for me. I carry Buffalo Bore 38 Spec +P 158 gr LSWC-Hp's. I definetely don't feel under gunned and it's super comfortable to carry.
 
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My pick is the Colt Cobra/Agent: Only slightly bigger than a Smith J-frame but weighing the same and holding 20% more ammunition (six shots as opposed to five); excellent trigger pull and no infernal "lock". The drawback to the discontinued Colt is trying to find a good used one at a decent price. But they are out there and, imo, well worth the search.
 
I've had an SP101 in .357 for over 15 years. They are great guns. I prefer mine in a holster. For pocket carry, I prefer a Colt Agent/Cobra 6 shooter. They weigh about half what a SP101 weighs.

Magnums in the SP101 are no trouble to shoot, IMO.
 
If you are a real man. Not many left in America. A snub .357 can be shot and enjoyed if your not a wuzzy.

But I see no reason over all for ever going under a 3" barrel for carry. Carry it right and nobody will know you have it.
 
First, I like steel frame snubbies-they are easier for me to shoot well

and the weight difference of a few ounces is not a problem. Rather than Features, I suggest you handle some different types and makes in person if you can...they all have different feel and handling characrteristics, and some will just feel better to you than others..and you will shoot them better as a result. This is what you should look for, IMO, unless you have a real need for something specific, light ultra light weight, large or small grip frame, etc...
FWIW, I have owned Smiths, Rugers and Colt D Specials...and I carry a Rossi 462, 6 shot .357 stainless.


mark
 
  • I would start with used S&W 38 Special snubs. There are a million of them in the used market, and will be better quality than a Charter, IMO. Find one with finish wear, but in good mechanical condition.
  • Later on, plan on adding laser grips. Snubs are hard to shoot well with their tiny sight radius
  • Buy ammo that is optimized for short barrels.
  • When looking at used revolvers, print a copy of the revolver checklist that is stickied at the top of this forum. A set of automotive feeler gauges is a good investment, and not too much money.
  • Ruger SP-101s used may also be a good value, but there don't seem to be as many of them out there, or they're more expensive.
 
budsgunshop.com has some really good deals on Taurus snubbies, as in $270 new with free shipping for either an 851 Protector (.38 5-shot shrouded hammer) or 850 CIA (.38 5-shot with concealed hammer). You can see the full line here: http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/494

The same thing in .357 is $331, free shipping.

For $352, you can get a 7-shot .357, (the 617) with a regular hammer and free shipping.
 
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