Fighting Revolver

[theotherwaldo]

The wheel guns that I would have preferred in a tight spot would have been a modern .357 Magnum of some sort, but the revolvers that I've had at hand were .44 single actions.

On three occasions it was this one:


Nowadays, the gun at hand is nearly always a semi-auto.

 

[SteadyD]

If I were tasked with outfitting a PD with revolvers it would have to be an 8 shot in 357, loaded with 38 special hst

 

[Rodfac]

Each to his own thoughts on the threats to be faced, but for me, a 3" bbl'd M-60 Smith loaded with .38 Spl +P 135 gr Gold Dots makes a lot of sense. I'd like six shots instead of the 5 provided, but really like the smaller frame and ease of carry. As I'm a died in the wool, OWB carry guy, most any of the Smith "K" or "L" frames in .357 would do about as nicely. In that regard, I have a special fondness for a M67 acquired some time ago. It's .38 Spl, sure, but as I favor the Gold Dot load above, that's not a problem.

While the Plus model 686 Smith is nice for its add'l capacity, it's just too heavy for daily carry IMHO. That said, a M19 or M66 would do as well as the M60, and even with the usually encountered 4" bbl., it wouldn't be that much of an inconvenience.

M67 pic'd below....note the 'pencil' bbl. which further cuts down the weight & the barely discernable Louisville PD shield. Regards, Rod

​

 

[mcb]

JMHO but a fighting revolver is not a CCW revolver. They are, in many ways, a very different animal. I am not trying to conceal my fighting revolver I am going to carry it in a way best for fighting. I am going to wear it out in the open in a manner that lets me deploy it as fast as I can. The fighting revolver is setup to finish the fight there on the offense. I am going to carry lots of ammo and be able to use that ammo.

My CCW revolver is not for fighting it's for that last resort when all other attempts to escape the situation without a fight fails and I must use violence to escape the fight, but I am still attempting to escape not fight.

The "fighting revolver" is a fantasy/gamer-gun for me, the CCW revolver is very much a reality for me.

 

[black mamba]

4" 29-2 Nickel with Mag-Na-Port and an 8 pound DA trigger pull.

 

[UncleEd]

Well, since S&W named it the Combat Masterpiece,
I'll have to vote for the Model 15 in .38 Special.

 

[bangswitch]

A 4in to 6in Smith N frame in .357mag, 41mag, 44mag or 45acp.

That's pretty much what I showed in post #20, except the .45 Auto is a .45 Colt. There are three .357Magnums, two .41 Magnums, a .44 Magnum and a .45 Colt in the picture.

 

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I would think any fighting Revolver. Wouldn't have a hammer or a rear sight. And shoot were you point. And have a 3" to 4" barrel I'd look into a GP100

 

[PistoleroWadcutterGANG]

Let's not forget the Smith 58 PD issue SFPD / Texas agencies. (From concept to mfc. to issue) Purposely made to arm officers ready to fight crime / criminals.

 

[bannockburn]

1) S&W L frame Model 686 three or four inch barrel
2) S&W K frame Model 13 three inch or four inch barrel
3) Ruger Speed Six two and three quarters or three inch barrel

 

[roo_ster]

what features and characteristics should a "fighting revolver" have if you were in the market for new one, and you knew you would (possibly) be in a gun fight aka might have to defend your life with one?

1. Folks are quibbling about what sort of "fight" would a fighting revolver be used for: CC, SD, HD, war, etc.

2. I would stipulate that they be double action (not necessarily DAO, though).

3. I am focusing on S&W, but there are Rugers, Colts and even Tauruses (Tauri?) that could be interchanged.



Concealed Carry, Self Defense, Home Defense
A concealed carry fighting revolver has to be packable and concealable. I can conceal anything from J-frame up through N-frame, given reasonable sartorial choices and carry gear. I would require .38spl chambering at minimum and likely top off with .44mag, .45ACP, or .45Colt. .357mag is likely a good compromise round. "Nice to have" would be a Crimson Trace laser grip, which I make sure I have on my J-frames for low-light shooting. Were money no object, I would have one on every gun I might tote. Barrels for J-frames would be ~2" and K-L-N 2-4". My actual choices for this category are SW638, SW64 2", SW64 4", SW686 4", SW629 4".
A self defense fighting revolver would not have to be concealed, so that opens up the bigger/heavier end a bit and likely skew my choice. If in wild areas, I would be likely to choose .44mag N-frame for 4-legged threats, though my W64 4", SW686 4", SW629 4" woiuld all serve.


War, Contemporary

I would forego J-frames and stick with K-L-N frames, preferably with moon clip capability. Some gunsmiths can machine cylinders such that even revolver cartridges can be fed with moon clips, though N-frame .45ACP is the no-brainer choice. Again, CT laser grips and maybe a WML. I might want to spring for one of the fancy-schmancy SW tactical type revolvers with a pic rail & moon-clip capability from the factory.


War, Future Post-Collapse

Kinda depends how "collapsey" things are. Maybe to the point where home-made black powder makes a resurgence? In that case, the old spacious revolver cartridges will rule the roost. All my SW revolvers would suffice, but big bore goes naturally with black powder.

 

[StrawHat]

The original, S&W New Century, 455



The improved, S&W Model 1917, 45 ACP,





The modernized, S&W Model 1950 Army, 45 ACP



Perfection, S&W Model 22-4, 45 ACP,



Kevin

 

[mope540]

The 3" S&W Model 13-3 is perfect for me... it would be even better with a bobbed hammer.
Also have a 3" Model 66-4 that would be a good choice.

 

[v8stang289]

For currently owned revolvers It would have to be one of my 686-4's or my 625. Though I would have the 686's cut for moon clips.
The balance and natural pointability that the 2.5" 686 puts it at the forefront, but I do love me some 45acp...

A 3" barrel 625 with Ahrends Combats would probably be the pinnacle for me. Though a S&W 1917 would be mighty fine, and has history as a fighting revolver.

 

[MikeInOr]

Here you go:

 

[GRIZ22]

I've seen a lot of people in this thread suggest N frames and calibers that start with 4. That's good. Except if you have to carry it with other gear. I'm talking about being an infantryman. If that's what you're doing you go to extraordinary means to cut the weight you carry.

 

[UncleEd]

Any speed loaders or moon cllps for it?

 

[the Black Spot]

45 colt

 

[mcb]

I've seen a lot of people in this thread suggest N frames and calibers that start with 4. That's good. Except if you have to carry it with other gear. I'm talking about being an infantryman. If that's what you're doing you go to extraordinary means to cut the weight you carry.

I would rather have an 8-shot N frame in this context. But If we are talking about infantry than I am dropping a sidearm all together and devoting that weight to more magazines for my rifle.

 

[StrawHat]

I've seen a lot of people in this thread suggest N frames and calibers that start with 4. That's good. Except if you have to carry it with other gear. I'm talking about being an infantryman. If that's what you're doing you go to extraordinary means to cut the weight you carry.

Okay, did not see that in the OP. I took the term “fighting handgun” to mean one carried to a fight, to end the fight. The first and second in my post were both used by Infantry.

Kevin

 

[Buckeye63]

Defensive carry revolver , primary or BUG. a great concept… no worries about limp wristing .. you can shoot from the hip, you can empty your cylinder with the muzzle pressed against your attackers gut …no worries about magazine failure ….

 

[theotherwaldo]

A fighting revolver is one that you have at hand when the fighting starts.
If you can't schedule when the fighting will start then you had better have said revolver at hand at all times.
It's unlikely that most folks will have a full-sized large caliber revolver - and reloads - at hand at all times... .

 

[Riomouse911]

What I carried for several years…
S&W 686 with Winchester 145gr SilverTips (low flash) in Safariland Comp III speedloaders.
(Think a spring plunger loaded moon clips).
If given a choice, I preferred the Model 66. It’s almost a pound lighter than the 686. You carry it infinitely more than you use it.
After a 12-15hr shift in 90+ degree heat driving a patrol boat/atv/pickup truck a gun belt with 12rds (2 speedloaders) ammo, hand cuffs, pepper spray, radio, cellphone, asp baton, and a 4” 686 got HEAVY!!

Ya, I only packed my 686+ for about six months, I carried it during my recovery from a thumb injury that kept me from being able to press down on slide release/ mag release buttons on my SIG P228.

I worked in a LA suburb with a pretty high hoodlum-to-taxpayer ratio, so my daily load out was four 7-shot HKS speedloaders, two cuff cases and a Buck 110 on my belt, along with a Tex Shoemaker US Swivel holster with a 2” drop. It did weigh me down a bit more than the Ol’ SIG did.

Stay safe.

 

[medic68]

Smith & Wesson 624 would be my preferred if push came to shove.

 

[Speedo66]

Here’s an old conundrum:

Should a duty or fighting revolver have adjustable sights, which could could be irreparably damaged by a drop or otherwise, or stay with frame fixed sights?

A fighting gun‘s adjustable sights may be damaged far from an armorer and not be able to be quickly repaired, and not be of use when needed.

Personally, I would stick with fixed sights, such as on my S&W K frame, which have a long history of being rugged duty and fighting guns.