The Marlin 39 Club

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I've had one of these in my closet for about 10 years now that i bought at a garage sale for 50 bucks.. blueing is almost gone but it's not rusty or anything according to what i've seen mine was made in 1949 and has a serial number less then 1000. Now i'm going to have to go clean it up and take it out to the range just to see what it does..

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Been thinking about adding a second marlin to keep my newly acquired Century LTD company. The weather has been so crumby that I don't have much experience with shooting my new toy. Wonder what those with more experience prefer for a target shooting barrel length? 18? 20? 24?

I like the octagon barrels. Not sure I want a barrel shorter than 20" like on my century.....and wondering if a 24" like on a cowboy model would be "un-ruley" and too heavy for kids? I will mostly shoot steel targets with my grandkids on my personal range out to about 100 yards.....and we got a few grouse and critters that need thinning.

Barrel length advice? :confused:
 
The octagonal barrels are lighter than the round 39 barrels. Total weight is 5.85 pounds for the Mountie. The 39 Century limited is 5.375 pounds. I can't find where I wrote down the Cowboy's weight but I would suspect it comes close to the shorter barreled Mountie's weight. The 24" Cowboy balances and carries amazingly well.

The only issue I've had with kids and a Marlin 39 is keeping them supplied in ammo and targets. The rate at which they can burn through a brick is astounding.

My "experienced" eyes appreciate the longer barrels with iron sights. Not much of an issue with younger and more agile eyes.

A possible consideration is report. The longer barrels do reduce the report noticeably, especially with subsonic ammo. If you shoot where noise might upset the neighbors, it might be a virtue worth considering.
 
2 Wild Dueces said:
Been thinking about adding a second marlin to keep my newly acquired Century LTD company. The weather has been so crumby that I don't have much experience with shooting my new toy. Wonder what those with more experience prefer for a target shooting barrel length? 18? 20? 24?

I like the octagon barrels. Not sure I want a barrel shorter than 20" like on my century.....and wondering if a 24" like on a cowboy model would be "un-ruley" and too heavy for kids? I will mostly shoot steel targets with my grandkids on my personal range out to about 100 yards.....and we got a few grouse and critters that need thinning.

Barrel length advice? :confused:
Click to expand...
Is it legal to shoot grouse in MN with a rifle? In WI we cannot do so.....but maybe some states may allow it.

I have a M39A Article II commemorative rifle with the 24" octagon bbl and find it to be easy to handle and sight with...not overly front heavy at all....feels well balanced...
 
Wrench, stick to your choice of the Marble's tang sight-here's one on my '47...
012-3.gif
Really brings the best out of an old 39A without a period scope- which I also have, but prefer the tang.
 
Thanks for the input on barrel lengths. I tend to like the longer / heavier barrels for long-range shooting. Much more steady to me. My only concern is for kids to hold em...but they seem to "get along" with whatever you hand 'em most often...lol.

I kinda like teaching kids to shoot with a single action revolver and single shot rifles and bolt actions etc....as opposed to the "spray and pray" which can result when shooting semi-autos (although that can be fun once in a while too). Much better on the ammo budget too!

Irish, your right on the grouse hunting. A 22 is not permitted in MN either. I misspoke and we do not hunt grouse that way. I had just read another thread where grouse were taken with a 22 and I evidently decided to use that analogy for accuracy....wrong!

Still....head shots on grouse don't seem any different to me than head shots on squirrels (but laws are laws - and we shall obey em).

Thanks for the advice.
 
2 Wild Duece said "Still....head shots on grouse don't seem any different to me than head shots on squirrels (but laws are laws - and we shall obey em)."

My take is game birds are meant to be "taken on the wing" w/exception of turkeys....so that may be the reason they can't be taken with a rifle/handgun in our states.

You are right on too for teaching kids with non semi-auto firearms in the beginning....lever guns are a bit awkward when the kids are small too. Your carbine M39 may balance better for younger/smaller kids then my long bbl rifle version. A good peep sight would be a boon also for younger learning shooters IMO.
 
wrench, I agree with dewalt2. Stick with your original idea and get the Marbles tang sight.
To me, they are much better, and definately more appropriate on a traditional lever gun.
that's what I use on all my lever guns.
Scott.
 
I had to look for the Grouse and here is what it had to say. Now this is just for Washington State.

Forest Grouse
Forest grouse may not be killed with any rifle or handgun 24 caliber or larger, or
shotgun containing slugs or buckshot, during modern firearm deer or elk
seasons unless appropriate deer or elk tags are in the hunter's possession.

Forest grouse may be taken with shotguns as well as firearms smaller
than 24 caliber during the entire grouse hunting season.
 
Yeah well.....I believe the most sporting way to take grouse would be with a short barrel, lightweight shotgun "on the wing". And shotguns are what is legal in my part of the world....and is definitely what is most often used. BUT....I'm willing to bet dollars to doughnuts that a higher % of the grouse taken are "ground pounded" or shot while sitting on a branch, etc.....with a shotgun. So....you tell me what is more "sporting". Lots of idea's about what is "sporting". Just saying......

I digress...this is/was a 39 thread. Sorry
 
Grouse are hunting's equivalent to Bluegill fishing - easy if you know how, fun and good eating.

ogrousehunting.jpg


My definition for a perfect day: Cold, clear October day, Grouse hunting with my Marlin Model 39 with friends and/or family I care about, a fine meal around a campfire reliving the events of the day and the past.

rouseinlarch.jpg

More often than not I don't get a shot or have to pass on a shot for safety or recovery reasons. This fella was skylined so the only shot I got was with a camera.

It can be as sporting as you want to make it. We all define hunting in our own way based on how we were taught and what we've learned from experience. For some that would not allow the use of a firearm. For others it means driving around in a heated vehicle looking for game. I'm somewhere in the middle.
 
Mo, I knew you could shoot .30-30, .22, 45-70.

But lenses, too? Dang, dude. Nice grouse.

It's almost a chicken.

Bluegill fishing - easy if you know how, fun and good eating.
Click to expand...
I grew up with bluegill.

Fished them in the shallows under the trees with 'poppers',
little corks painted like insects, attached on fly line with leaders,
and laid up under tree limbs in the shallows of
a pond. The bream ate them,
and got eaten for dinner.
 
the grouse in the tree looks to be a young of the year......"shooting" the grouse like that is sorta like "catch & release"....:)
 
Shot the Long Range Rimfire Silhouette match with my open sighted Marlin.

rrange.jpg


Format uses the same targets but puts em out twice as far :uhoh: If you think those 1/2 size turkeys are tough at 75 yards, try em at 150! :eek: The 200 yard rams weren't much easier. The upside is that you can use shooting sticks or bipods. Based on Fast Frank's rock shooting video I'm betting he'd rule those stages.

They do a pretty cool course of fire too. You get 10 minutes to sight in AND shoot your 10 targets for score. They have a swinger target for each array that you can take as many shots on as you need to get zero'd and then you go to the knock down targets for 10 shots.

I just barely had enough rear elevator to reach the Turkeys. Even then I had to cover them with the bead which made windage a challenge. I knew I had about a bead+ holdover at 200 yards, at 200 METERS it's about a 4' holdover to connect. The 100 meter boars weren't too bad. Had I paced better I think I'd have rolled 8,9 & 10 but open sights do strain the eyes especially during a 10 shot string.

Most of the guys shot scoped bolt actions, there was one scoped autofeeder (AR which did great on the close targets but not the rams), and an old single shot Stevens. I was the only unscoped "competitor" but managed to tie for the most chickens knocked down. There I had the advantage because it was the only stage that required offhand shooting and a levergun's natural pointing ability and balance are conducive to good scores vs. the overly magnified-heavier-unbalanced bipoded bolt guns. :neener:

Very cool and fun match!
lrline.jpg
 
New 39a

So.....I was in a local gun shop buying another firearm. He had a new 39a on the rack and had a discounted price on it ($459) as somebody had made a small knick in the buttstock (no biggie for a "shooter"....we will likely add a few more with time.). I decided I couldn't go too far wrong....and it left his shop with me.

So....i decided to order a skinner "black gold" sight for my century ltd and I will move my scope to this new one.

Were going to find out how this new style and longer barrel compares to my century ltd. These lever guns are addicting. ;)
 
FWIW:

I love the "Black Gold" on my 1996 39A.. :)

I had bought it to go on one of my Century Limited's, but when I realized I would have to remove the original rear sight to do so I decided not to use it on the CL, but did put it on my 39A..

It's "purr-fect" on the 39A.

I had to rotate the peep sight counter clockwise three rotations as originally it was impacting roughly 2" low at 25 yards. But after Andy (@Skinner) was kind enough to explain the elevation adjustment process to me (I didn't even know it WAS adjustable) it's poa/poi now....

Removal of the factory rear sight on the 39A is NOT necessary, and I like that. I did have to adjust the elevation of the factory rear sight (at Andy's suggestion) a couple of clicks as in the folded position is was clear of the view from the peep sight, but after each round it would "sit" back up.. :eek:

Changing the elevation of the rear sight solved the problem..

If you don't mind removal of the rear sight of the CL then the Skinner "Black Gold" peep sight would be a beautiful thing to behold, of top quality manufacture, and a nice addition to a person's CL.

My 2nd CL (bought from the original owner) has an all steel Redfield peep sight (with a higher front sight) and the front sight was removed, leaving an empty wedge slot where the sight was.. I really don't care for the way the top of the barrel "looks" with the empty wedge hole so I'm trying to sweet talk Andy into making me a "filler" wedge for that hole.

Actually I believe the photo on the home page of the Skinner website shows a CL with a Skinner mounted.

Best Wishes,

Jesse

100_2465.jpg
 
Great post, Jesse. Thanks.

I need to read again more closely later, but even scanning quickly now I am reminded again that this is what I want to do with my 39a when I get it out here. I think I'm just going to sell the Leupold Rimfire scope that I bought for it and tried out. Great scope, but it just never quite felt right on the 39 for me. Too top heavy, too finniky [sp], too easy to knock out of true.

A Skinner seems the ticket for me. YMMV.

Not sure yet about the 'black gold' concept, though I can see it's aesthetic appeal in terms of balance with the lower part of the receiver/trigger.
 
Nema:

The fine Skinner peep sight is available in three models (colors)..
1. Standard blue/black
2. All brass
3. "Black Gold".

I have a friend who has the "all brass" on his 39A and for my taste it's just too much brass sitting on top...

I am more than pleased with the appearance (and function) of the "Black Gold" on my 39A, and IF I ordered another, it would also be the "Black Gold" model.

But, preference is a personal thing..

I think all of the Skinners are beautiful no matter the model.

Best Wishes,

Jesse
 
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