Traded into a used Savage Scout

[redneckrepairs]

Last week I did a telephone trade with my normal dealer for a savage " scout " .308 rifle . I picked it up today but have not shot it yet . This is the old pre accutrigger mod 10 scout. The trigger has a bit of creep, but not as bad as many i have seen letoff i estimate is ( unmesured ) about 4lbs . Barrel is ported with a series of small holes and it appears factory or pro done , no bubba looks to it . Its my first savage so chime in what do i need to look for , improve ( other than the trigger ) ect, . I honestly traded for it because i had an extra cz pistol in the safe i had not shot a full box of ammo thro in 4 years and wanted to try the scout concept a little closer than my psudo scout enfield ( which i like but scope is high , and it does not make even close to weight lol ). My expectations from the rifle is as a " pickup " or utility gun , something to go in the soft case behind the pickup seat and get drug out for coyotes, antelope or deer when i draw , and a bit of plinking .

Anyway let me know what you think of " scout rifles" as a class , as well as savage rifles as a class ... and lastly if any of you own or have owned a savage scout let me have your thoughts .

 

[CZ223]

I currently own 7 Savage rifles. All are the heavy barreled Varmint models with laminate stocks and Stainless barrels. Only 2 of them have the Accu-trigger and all of them are exceptionally accurate. Your trigger can be adjusted or replaced. Both Rifle Basix and Sharp Shooter Supply offer excellent replacement triggers for around $80. Honestly though I wouldn't do anything untill you have put a couple boxes of ammo down range. Remember that your rifle is only as good as the scope you put on it so buy the best you can afford. I like Leupolds and Nikons but I recently had a Weaver that seemed quite nice and would have kept it but only went to 10X and I like more scope than that. I think that the Savage scout will serve you well in the role that you have stated although 308 might be more than you really need.

 

[redneckrepairs]

No doubt the .308 is heavy for yotes , possibly for lopes too , but we have some big deer down here . I honestly shopped for the .308 rather than the 7mm 08 due to availability/price of ammo . I shoot under 1k a year with a big game rifle so really it does not pay me to reload . I fully plan a couple of hundred rounds thro this gun before i consider any changes .. I do have a feeling an aftermarket trigger is in order , or some work getting the factory in line . I have several specific use rifles in different cals that will do any job better , what i am facinated with is to update the winchester 94 in 30-30 for the plains and today as a ranch rifle . It is not to be the " best " for anything , but rather to acquit its self well in roles from plinking to humane harvest of game .

As to scope , when i traded for it ( and as of now ) it wears a NC STAR cheap scope which is 2x7. I know this is not in the spirit of a scout , but want to play before i replace it ( if needed )

 

[flatdog]

I wouldn't trade my Savage Scout for love or money. If your going to keep it consider replacing the trigger right off the bat. A hard creepy pull in a short lightweight rifle don't mix well. The older Model 110 and 10 series triggers are easily ruined and rendered unsafe. Either of the triggers recommended in a previous post will work well

You'll have to experiment with optics. Pistol scopes, red dots, and intermediate eye relief scopes can all be mounted forward of the receiver. But some work better than others.

The important thing is to train yourself to use both eyes to acquire the target and then close one eye if you feel the need. You can be both fast and accurate with this method without any loss in field of view. Anything over 3X tends to create the very problems with field of view that keeping both eyes open prevents.

These links may help you in your search. The first has general Scout Concept knowledge as well as good information on the Savage Scout.

http://www.steyrscout.org/project.htm

The second says I don't know what I'm talking about.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/scout_scopes.htm

At any rate it's a start.

 

[redneckrepairs]

Well I put 30 rounds of 110s thro the rifle yesterday. Now i bought the rifle used and it had a cheap nc star 2x7 scope installed which overhangs the action a bit ( i know sacralage for a scout ) . I have not got the scope off the 2x setting yet , and i did not put the rifle on paper . Really its not a paper shoot for group gun is it ? I did set a gallon paint can out on the pasture and walk 110 steps away , then shot at said paint can . The rifle was pre sighted enough to be " on target " at that range on a gallon can. so i tried the same thing with a pop can that i had emptied and once you knock the can over with the first shot you need to hold on the bottom of the can to hit it again .. I found it somewhat humorous that the rifle came pre sighted somewhat close to what i consider right . A couple of prairie dogs did not seem to have the same enjoyment of this as i and voiced displeasure of the rifle with somewhat satisfying immitations of a full pop can when shot lol . Overall at this point i both dread and look foreward to some 180s , and consider the little rifle to be the " leatherman tool " i wanted , not the best tool for any job , but the tool you are likely to have with you to fix whatever . On a side note and just for grins i await the time i have someone to pitch targets for me as i cant resist an attempt at a clay with this setup .

 

[flatdog]

Glad you had so much fun with your Savage. In answer to your question, no it's not a bench rifle. Sight it in with the chosen load and then leave the bench alone. As a field gun it shines.

The 180 grainers will let you know your shooting, but nothing intolerable. Using 200 grainers on the 200 yard steel gong will turn heads and make you grin.

Sims Vibration Laboratory makes a recoil pad that's superior to the one from the factory.

As for the clays try the "going away" shots. SAFETY DISCLAIMER:Shooting clays with a rifle creates a long danger zone. It should not be attempted unless there is an adequate impact zone.

A good trigger will make a good rifle even sweeter and allow you to extend your sure hit range farther than many would give credit for.

 

[redneckrepairs]

lol i have close to an 8 mile downrange safe zone so i dont see that as much of an issue .

 

[flatdog]

Figured you had it well in hand, that was just CYA stuff on my part.

 

[redneckrepairs]

I did tear it down yesterday both to look at the stock , and to reset the trigger ( no i did not stone , grind , polish , ect.. anything due to the sintered metal issue ) . I did not notice an overtravel adjustment on it but did not spend a lot of time and effort looking for one either . The trigger is still not what i would call good , but maby livable short term , and still safe .

 

[flatdog]

I seriously doubt you're ever going to be satisfied with the trigger as it stands now. I had my 110FP worked on many years ago and it's an excellent glass rod break. Neither slamming the butt on the floor nor working the bolt will jar it off safe. But it would probably be easier and cheaper to go the after market route now.

What follows is strictly my opinion so take it for what it's worth. I would replace the trigger first and then tend to the scope. The reason being that the scope lets you see better but it doesn't make you a better shot. A quality trigger and plenty of time with it does that. The trigger is the last interface between you and the rifle before the shot breaks and as such carries great weight. I'd much rather have an excellent trigger and mediocre glass than the other way round.

Just a thought about the open sights. Consider replacing the bead front with a flattop post. It's a more precise indicator of elevation and should center just as easily if not more so in the peep. This also provides the added benefit of being faster on snapshots.

Good Shooting.

 

[rangerruck]

model 10 and 11, by savage, are the best. true short actions, so from that standpoint, i would say , ' good score!'. If it has sights, i would leave it thusly, if not, I do not have enough knowledge of a good scout scope setup, that is a diffy.
okay, upon further reading, dump the nc star scope, it will fail , no matter what you do. i like the idea of 110 grainers, just make sure it is fully freefloated, you will find an ammo with it , proly milsurp ammo, that will be 1 moa accurate with it, I am sure.
then If I rr wr, take the sear spring, up top, and try to lenthen it, or double up a spring with it, or go get a slightly stiffer , longer spring. should really cut down on the pull weight, and creep.

 

[trstafford]

for practice with a scout, when you get a good scout scope try mounting the cheap scope on a shotgun and shooting skeet with it. I have a 20 gauge drilled and tapped for normal scope and can shoot very well with it by keeping both eyes open, which is how I shoot a scope anyway for close running shots.