Wait so AD2309 and AD2296 work on the pro 1000 even though it says these parts are for non-progressive presses? Just want to be sure, thanks.
Lee Pro 1000
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sfl_gunner
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I threw the piece of crap out. The Pro 1000 was probably the worst piece of equipment that I have ever purchased in my life. I rather pay a dollar a round than ever trying to load on a Lee press again.
LiveLife
Member
Lee Auto Breech Lock Pro (Pro 4000 kit) is pretty solid press.
kmw1954
Member
Indeed it does. I use the factory springed auto return measure on a 3 hole turret, my Pro1000 and the Pro4000 ABLP. There is no reason for it to not work on any press when using the Lee powder thru die. I have even used it with limited success on the 223.
maddmaxx11
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I have been using a pro 1000 for years. I prime on the press with almost no problems. When the primer tray gets low add primers and no problems. It is not a Dillon 650 but I could have bought 4 or 5 of them for the Dillon price. The Lee pro 1000 was my very 1st press and have loaded 9mm, 40 and 223 on it.
I have now sorted out the powder measure disk issue. Disassembled the machine up to the point of the shell carrier. It won't budge i.e. I have loosened the Allen bolt but the shell carrier doesn't come when I put a block under it. The reason I disassembled is because I'm having no luck with primers seating...they are flowing fine through the chute and hit the primer pin...just not seating. Anyhow I turned the hex rod clockwise and it does not want to come off...gouged the rod a tiny bit. I want to get the shell plate off so I can check if there's perhaps a chewed up primer sitting underneath it from my earlier unsuccessful priming attempts. Thanks for advice again although I'm getting a hand primer...will be a lot less frustrating.
Zendude
Member
Make sure the primer pin is not installed upside down.
LiveLife
Member
Good to hear.
Likely case sensor spring is not installed properly to drop the priming pin.
If the priming pin does not drop down when the black plastic case sensor is moved/activated, check the bottom of the case sensor to see how the spring is installed. If the spring is around the bottom of priming pin, it won't drop down.
Once actuating/moving the case sensor drops the priming pin, next you need to check if priming pin is dropping down completely so top of priming pin is flush/slightly below flush with primer chute slide surface.
Picture showing dropped priming pin slightly below flush to allow primers to slide into Station #2 on top of priming pin.
If top of priming pin is above the slide surface, there's something (likely powder granules) at the bottom of priming pin hole that need to be cleaned out. (If you have canned air for computer or compressed air available, you can blow down around from top of priming pin with the pin up instead of disassembling the shell plate carrier)
DO NOT turn the hex rod (action rod) with a wrench as it turns by nylon gear inside the shell plate carrier sliding up and down the hex rod. (If the hex rod is gouged/created burr where nylon gear/ratchet gear slides up and down, it will likely damage the ratchet gear. If that's the case, try smoothing the gouge/burr or you will need to replace the hex rod)
To remove the hex rod, apply a drop of oil and rub it up and down the hex rod and actuate the ram lever up and down to lubricate the nylon gear/ratchet. There is a twist at one end and you want to slide the shell plate carrier up towards the end without the twist so shell plate carrier/nylon gears are on the part of hex rod that is straight. Then place a block under the shell plate carrier and loosen the Allen head bolt (Blue arrow in below picture) then using the ram lever, lower the ram and shell plate carrier should slide off the ram. (When you are reinstalling the shell plate carrier back on the ram, make sure it is fully seated on the ram or you will crack/crush the base when you tighten the Allen head bolt)
Once shell plate carrier is off the ram and hex rod removed, if you look at the bottom of shell plate carrier, there's a hole in the nylon gear the hex rod goes through. With nylon gear sliding up and down the hex rod with the small nylon ratchet gear (Red arrow) is what turns the hex rod/shell plate.
Bottom of shell plate carrier (Notice the improperly installed case sensor spring wrapped around bottom of priming pin?)
Cover plate off showing worn nylon ratchet gear
And new nylon ratchet gear
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LiveLife
Member
With the shell plate carrier off the ram, you should be able to inspect Station #2 under the shell plate to see if any primer is stuck there. Shell plate should rotate freely with a click from ball bearing on detent spring.
To remove the shell plate, I insert a screw driver into Station #1 hole to secure the shell plate. Insert the Allen wrench and turn CLOCKWISE to loosen the shell plate. Once shell plate is off, be careful not to loose the ball bearing/spring and remove the primer attachment, priming rod and spring (Note how pin and spring goes in as it can be installed upside down) to inspect the inside of hole to clear any debri (That can prevent priming pin from dropping down fully).
With the primer attachment off, closely inspect the slide surface for damage/gouge that can prevent primers from sliding freely. If damaged to where primers won't freely slide, you need to burnish/polish the slide surface or replace the primer attachment.
NOTE: No lubrication of shell plate is necessary as shell plate "free floats" above the carrier when rotating. Only lubrication I use is one drop of oil on finger tip to rub on hex rod to make nylon ratchet gear slide up and down for smooth indexing of shell plate.
Once shell plate carrier is reinstalled on ram (Be sure carrier is fully seated on ram before tightening the Allen head bolt), check the shell plate index timing. Shell plate should click into station just before carrier reaches the bottom of cycle. If index timing is off, adjust the large Phillips head bolt until shell plate indexes into station before carrier reaches the bottom of cycle.
That's your choice and good priming option to have but once you learn the proper operation of Pro 1000, priming on the press can be done reliably.
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I don't hate the Pro. I just don't enjoy constant tinkering. I have two of them. I use them for BIG runs in a specific caliber. Size a pile of brass on a single stage. Prime with a hand held tool while enjoying outdoor shows or a movie. Load on the Pro with powder on station one, seat on two, crimp on three. Frustration free and after 77 years of teaching, supervision and living in Illinois, that is a good thing.
LiveLife
Member
Resizing and priming cases in a separate step is a good way to turn the 3 station Pro 1000 into a 4 station press.
Also, using pre-resized brass will produce more consistent OAL rounds (Removes shell plate tilt/deflection factor) and makes reloading silky smooth with very little effort as you are just seating bullets and crimping cases - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...progressive-press.833604/page-2#post-10779806
Pro 1000, like any other progressive press, requires proper set up and regular lubrication and cleaning. Before a reloading session with Pro 1000, a quick check of case sensor/priming pin function, index timing along with lubrication of metal-to-metal surfaces particularly hex rod surface with oil will ensure reliable and smooth operation.
Here's a Pro 1000 checklist I use with QC checks to ensure proper operation - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-6#post-9614898
Now, if you want a "no tinker" press ... There's 4 station Auto Breech Lock Pro that comes in full kit as Pro 4000.
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jmorris
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- 24,233
I realize it’s a old thread and I have also used a spring to return the measure; however, it’s worth pointing out that the chain is not supposed to get tight until the ram is all the way down, resetting the measure at the bottom of the stroke.
Chunking the chain and using a spring resets the measure much higher in the stroke, making the possibility of a short stroke double charge much greater.
Chunking the chain and using a spring resets the measure much higher in the stroke, making the possibility of a short stroke double charge much greater.
Thanks again for all the advice much appreciated. I will try again to remove the shell plate carrier but I would like to clarify your instructions on removing the shell plate. It's not clear where I should insert the Allen wrench as by this time I would have already removed that bolt. Also, with regards to the primer not seating issues, I have checked the case sensor spring and it is in its correct place. I am also not having an issue with primers sliding down the chute and onto the priming pin. I can complete the upstroke but get no resistance whatsoever and when I move the case to the next station and look at Station 2 the primer is sitting there with another primer on it. So although my sensor spring is in the right place and the priming pin moves up and down freely the case sensor is not working. Primers keep flowing even if there's no case. I've tried loosening the screw on the case sensor but there's little to no effect on the case sensor spring. So let's assume we just want to understand why I'm not getting the primers to bite would it make sense to put something underneath the priming pin so it moves higher and perhaps gets the primer deeper into the primer hole?
I will pay attention to that as I will be using this press to drop powder and seat the bullet, as I am definitely going to the hand priming option. Will first have to resize them, then hand prime then manually load for powder and auto to Station 3 bullet crimp. Tedious I know but I think the more manual process will force me to pay more attention since I'm a complete newbie.
The press came with the carrier and everything else attached to it already assembled. Do you think this was maybe a Monday morning hangover machine? Jokes aside I thought the priming pin is uniform throughout i.e. same cylindrical shape throughout its travel?
LiveLife
Member
Allen wrench goes where hex rod comes out
Priming pin/rod is installed with longer side on top with spring that pushes the rod down when actuated by the case sensor. When you prime a case or push forward on the ram lever, you push the priming rod back up and paper clip shaped spring connected to case sensor holds the rod up. Case sensor needs to move freely.
That means the primer didn't get seated in the case/ram lever was not pushed forward enough to seat the primer into case. With each cycling of ram lever, you must deliberately push the ram lever forward to seat the primer.
Priming rod goes up when the ram lever is pushed forward to seat a primer. Priming rod only drops down when a case is moved from Station #1 to Station #2 actuating the case sensor to allow a primer to slide under the case to be primed.
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LiveLife
Member
Test this.
Without a case, actuate the case sensor to slide a primer into Station #2 and push forward on the ram lever. When the ram lever is returned, does the priming pin/rod stay up holding back the column of primers in the primer attachment?
Without a case, actuate the case sensor to slide a primer into Station #2 and push forward on the ram lever. When the ram lever is returned, does the priming pin/rod stay up holding back the column of primers in the primer attachment?
I'm not sure why you have given up on the priming system already.
Here's some vids on the Pro 1000, I have found them to be very helpful:
Pro 1000 Help Videos - Lee Precision
And know that keeping all the smooge from de-priming off any progressive will do wonders to smooth out the operation.
I de-prime/wet tumble cases before running them thru a progressive, keeping it clean and smooge free.
good luck going forward,
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@Vrod1023:
I know when I 1st got my Pro 1000 I was pumped about getting it going, C clamped it to the bench and started yanking on the lever.
I remember jamming it and stripping the bushing, luckily it came with 2 spares.
It was one problem after another, so I decided to start over/adjust everything via the manual/LEE vids, and was surprised to find EVERYTHING out of adjustment from the factory.
I spent a lot of time cycling the press, adjusting/watching things move/reading threads here before even putting in any dies or components.
I found this thread most helpful, mostly composed by @LiveLife other knowledgeable members:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-pro-1000-solutions-no-bashing.507454/
I remember using spent primers to test cycle the priming station with the same 10 cases over and over, and only the sizing die installed.
And this press was not my 1st progressive either and had been reloading on an RCBS piggyback for many years.
You may be at a point where stripping down the press and starting over, adjusting everything to spec, getting a feel for the press, is your best option.
I would hate to see you end up at the same frustration point as a few of the people who posted about giving up and only post negatives about the Pro 1000 now.
We are here to help you along,
.
I know when I 1st got my Pro 1000 I was pumped about getting it going, C clamped it to the bench and started yanking on the lever.
I remember jamming it and stripping the bushing, luckily it came with 2 spares.
It was one problem after another, so I decided to start over/adjust everything via the manual/LEE vids, and was surprised to find EVERYTHING out of adjustment from the factory.
I spent a lot of time cycling the press, adjusting/watching things move/reading threads here before even putting in any dies or components.
I found this thread most helpful, mostly composed by @LiveLife other knowledgeable members:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-pro-1000-solutions-no-bashing.507454/
I remember using spent primers to test cycle the priming station with the same 10 cases over and over, and only the sizing die installed.
And this press was not my 1st progressive either and had been reloading on an RCBS piggyback for many years.
You may be at a point where stripping down the press and starting over, adjusting everything to spec, getting a feel for the press, is your best option.
I would hate to see you end up at the same frustration point as a few of the people who posted about giving up and only post negatives about the Pro 1000 now.
We are here to help you along,
.
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Dadjoq
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- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1
Hi Guy's,
I got the 1000 about 3 months ago, in 38/357. Had to do the calibre change to 38Super, no Problems...But I still cannot get the damn thing to function correctly! I have read that I need to polish the primer tube, split it to give the primers more room, adjust the timing of the shell plate, spray lube on the ramp so the cases slide down, Polish the loading slide so the cases load correctly.... I did not buy a second hand press. I paid $600AU for a brand new press. Why should I have to 'tweek' the damn thing to make it work right? When you purchase a new car you don't have to get a wheel alignment, or service the engine before you can drive it, do you?? I purchased My first Lee 30 years ago, if anything they have gotten worse. I now have purchased a Dillon Square Deal, which I couldn't get before because there was none around, and am replacing the Lee. I'm not selling it, Instead I'm going to run over it with my Excavator and throw the piece of junk in the bin. My two Cent's! Yes, I know this is not in the spirit of the website but sometimes you need to rant.
I got the 1000 about 3 months ago, in 38/357. Had to do the calibre change to 38Super, no Problems...But I still cannot get the damn thing to function correctly! I have read that I need to polish the primer tube, split it to give the primers more room, adjust the timing of the shell plate, spray lube on the ramp so the cases slide down, Polish the loading slide so the cases load correctly.... I did not buy a second hand press. I paid $600AU for a brand new press. Why should I have to 'tweek' the damn thing to make it work right? When you purchase a new car you don't have to get a wheel alignment, or service the engine before you can drive it, do you?? I purchased My first Lee 30 years ago, if anything they have gotten worse. I now have purchased a Dillon Square Deal, which I couldn't get before because there was none around, and am replacing the Lee. I'm not selling it, Instead I'm going to run over it with my Excavator and throw the piece of junk in the bin. My two Cent's! Yes, I know this is not in the spirit of the website but sometimes you need to rant.
LiveLife
Member
People are people. "Life happens" but how we choose to respond to life "Defines us"
When I switched from 1911 to Glock for USPSA, wow some shooters got their panties wadded, especially when I surpassed them on the club ladder shooting "factory stock" Glocks.
Welcome to THR. Nice opening first post ... Very "High Road" of you.
BTW, I have two uncles who live in Australia.
And I disagree on Lee products getting worse over the decades. I have been reloading almost 30 years now and while many companies have gone global, Lee Precision is one of few companies that continues to manufacture all of their products in the USA while continuing to improve their product line. One example is 4 station Auto Breech Lock Pro which also comes in kit form as Pro 4000.
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LiveLife
Member
Yes, I believe that is likely the primary objective of "Handloading & Reloading" subcategory of THR forum ... Sharing our reloading experience and knowledge to help others.We are here to help you along,
No, you have it backwards.
Primers are seated at the bottom of stroke by pushing forward on the ram lever.
That is a good suggestion.
Over the decades, I have helped many people get started with reloading and in addition to single stage press, often Pro 1000 was the most viable option due to cost.
I taught them to first get familiar with Pro 1000 by using it in "Turret Press" mode running single case through until they were comfortable before using in progressive mode with full shell plate. And when they ran into problems, often clearing the shell plate and troubleshooting starting over with a case in Station #1 was better than forcing the press.
After many Pro 1000 initial setup and troubleshooting threads like this - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-pro-1000.517856/
I decided to do a mega support thread to compile Pro 1000 problems/solutions in one place with help from other THR members - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-pro-1000-solutions-no-bashing.507454/
Which led to reloading checklist with QC steps to ensure reliable operation of Pro 1000 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lutions-no-bashing.507454/page-6#post-9614898
And unboxing a new Pro 1000 and preventing initial setup issues Q&A thread - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/preventing-pro-1000-set-up-problems.761231/
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Thanks guys to you Tilos and to LoveLife I have made a breakthrough!!! Primers are seating now and it definitely was user error here. I was not pushing the lever the way I should to feel for proper seat. But in addition I had a problem with the case sensor and didn't know that the case sensor screw is veneers sensitive. I finally got it working now so I just want to say a huge thanks to all of you. It sure feels great to know it's working and to load my own live rounds. Yoooohoooo!!!@Vrod1023:
I know when I 1st got my Pro 1000 I was pumped about getting it going, C clamped it to the bench and started yanking on the lever.
I remember jamming it and stripping the bushing, luckily it came with 2 spares.
It was one problem after another, so I decided to start over/adjust everything via the manual/LEE vids, and was surprised to find EVERYTHING out of adjustment from the factory.
I spent a lot of time cycling the press, adjusting/watching things move/reading threads here before even putting in any dies or components.
I found this thread most helpful, mostly composed by @LiveLife other knowledgeable members:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-pro-1000-solutions-no-bashing.507454/
I remember using spent primers to test cycle the priming station with the same 10 cases over and over, and only the sizing die installed.
And this press was not my 1st progressive either and had been reloading on an RCBS piggyback for many years.
You may be at a point where stripping down the press and starting over, adjusting everything to spec, getting a feel for the press, is your best option.
I would hate to see you end up at the same frustration point as a few of the people who posted about giving up and only post negatives about the Pro 1000 now.
We are here to help you along,
.
AWESOME LIVELIFE! Appreciate all the help!!
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