The Marlin 39 Club

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trueseeker,
The fellow I bought my rifle from took the picture on the stump.
I didn't even notice that your mountie was tapped on the barrel as well!
I wonder what the weaver mount looks like...it might be a good place for a red dot as it would still allow for a comfortable carry with your hand around the receiver...
 
LeadHead I guess it looks like this:

weaver%20NS%20mount%20010c_1_sbl.jpg

I would like it to match the gun metal but doesnt look like that will be an option.
 
I just bought an old Marlin 39A last week.

I would like to refinish the wood. There's a less than 1/32nd. crack in the wood near the pistol grip area. It looks like someone put some kind of filler into it as it's lighter in color than the rest. Too bad, because it's one of those a natural looking cracks that bends with the natural grain etc. It would look nice without the filler.

Does anyone have any thoughts about how to approach it? I work with wood a lot, but never on a gun. My typical approach would be to try a finish remover first and then go with the lightest sandpaper that would finish the job. I'm thinking that it might require more sanding (i.e. to get beyond the filler). Then I would use several layers of a protectant that would enhance the natural look without making it glossy.

Is there anyone who's dealt with a similar type issue who can give me some advise?
thanks:)
 
I got out a magnifying glass and took a closer look at the area on the stock (that I thought was a filled crack). It's not. It's just a deep scratch that went below the stain. So I just did a little touch up with one of those little stain markers. The stain marker matched so well that I went ahead and touched up the other scratches etc. It looks pretty good now. I don't plan on refinishing it.

I looked at the serial # H 224XX. From what I can tell it might have been manufactured in 1950 or 1951. The blueing still looks good.
 
marlin 39a

just picked up a malin 39a g serial number (1950) with redfield rear peep and globe front only problem was the ejector was broken but other wise 90 percent.
 
39a

hi all just bought a 39a this week its a 58-59 model, its a truly fantastic rifle however i have a badly split stock which has been badly repaired so can i get another stock in the uk???? and can i join the club please :evil:
 
Count me in. I've got two. One about 7 or 8 years old, and the other bought this year. The new one had many problems with failure to extract the empty shell even with a brand new extractor and different ammo. I tried Armed Bears method of tweaking the extractor with needle nose pliers and it works. Give it a try if you are having troubles with FTE.

strat8
 
Refinishing a 39A

I'm refinishing a '56 39A and I'm following DFarris's, "Best oil finish" instructions. I'm happy with the progress, but I have to ask, if I bought a new forearm and stock would they fit as snuggly as the origional? I want to preserve the origional parts and the stock has the serial number stamped in it, but I wonder if those of you that know can tell me if the new wood would look nice or would it be an obvious replacement?

Also, I've mentioned a model of the 39A that I own in a previous post and I'm really wondering if anyone has encountered it. I bought a 1897 Texan about a year ago. I did my research, mostly in this thread, and I know that a Marlin 1897 Texan is a 39 special edition with a 20" octagon barrel straight stock made in the late 1990s. What's interesting to me is that I would love to own a Mountie, but haven't found one yet, and I think the 1897 Texan is the most recent 20" barrel made. I picked it up for $400.00 and I'd say it's 92-95%. Does anyone have any info on this rifle? It's a very nice looking and shooting gun and I hope the vast community that watches this thread can give me a comment.

Happy shooting.
 
He's Baaaaack!

So, finally, after having purchased the rifle a year and a half ago . . . [post=3866168](see post # 742)[/post] . . .

attachment.php

I finally got out to the range with it on Memorial Day.

Let me see if I can find that photo . . . ahh, yes -- from my Treo's camera:

attachment.php


Having never fired this rifle before, I decided to start at 30 yards (since that's where I left off with the pistol work) to see if the scope would even put me on the paper.

I started off shooting "offhand" (unsupported, standing).

The first three shots are the ones bracketing the number "10" at the left of the bull. And it just got better from there. That's a full magazine -- 18 rounds -- of Federal bulk blue box.

I never even touched the scope knobs.

As the sun was going down, I was picking and shooting orange pieces of clays that someone had already busted, off the berm at 50 yards.

The gun shot clean, action is snappy, trigger is crisp, and the cheap, cheesy scope lets me hit even when I'm sloppy.

I think I'll keep this little gun.

:D

 

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Gunner;

I strongly doubt that wood inletted for newer 39's will correctly fit your 1956 example. I believe that there are differences in the tang lengths at the rear of the action between the older models & the new ones.

I'd be interested in finding out just when some of the running changes were made. For instance, I know that there's at least two magazine tube part #'s for the 39's, but when was the change (or changes) made?

900F
 
Hey - is the clubhouse still open?


My 39a just bagged her first snake last weekend. She done good. That is all...
 
Hi tubeshooter
Glad to see your M39 defending the homestead. They are quite versatile and definitely accurate enough. No pics of the vanquished foe? I have really enjoyed mine as a stress reliever.
TaKe CaRe
Ted
 
Thanks guys!

ShakyJake - no pics, unfortunately. I just finally got a camera a couple of weeks ago; didn't quite have it when this occurred.


Nem - thanks as always. Good to see you here as well!
 
I wonder if you guys know that the Marlin 39 is the oldest lever action gun still in production. 1891 to now. Mine is a 1953.
 
I want to remove the forearm cap on my Mountie (circa 1959), but I'm really baffled about how to do it. I understand that I have to remove the mag tube, but I can't figure out how to get it off. I know I'm supposed to drift out a pin the mag tube band, but I wonder if somebody has "customized" the gun too much. The pin appears to be really tiny, not much greater diameter than a sewing pin. I don't have a punch small enough to get it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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