The Marlin 39 Club

[Wayne02]

The 39a @ 100 Yards?

I have received a new 39A as a gift and would like to join the club and ask a couple of questions.

My M/O: Older guy with not so good eyesight. Rifle will be used 2-3 times per year plinking reactive targets at various distances on our farm property, but the vast majority of the time it will be used at my gun club shooting bullseye paper targets at 100 yards. I have access to a 50 yard distance that I can use for initial sight-in but beyond that I shoot at the member range which has 100 yard target positions as the starting point. This gun will likely not be used for hunting other than maybe pest control on the farm.

I would like to optimize the gun such that it provides the most accuracy at 100 yards off the bench and from the standing position. I'm not much concerned with aesthetics as much as function i.e. I don't care if a scope doesn't 'look right' on a levergun.

- What are my sight options for this application? What type of scope would be appropriate? I do have a quality spotting scope that I use for high power rifle at 200+ yards but it would be nice if just using a scope would provide a clear enough picture for scoring as well but maybe this is asking too much. Would any of the peep sights be appropriate for bullseye work at 100 yards, or not so much?

- What would be a good sling for these applications?

- What can be done to improve the trigger? I realize they get better with use, but what the options to improve it now? Preferably a do-it-yourself type deal as I do most all of my own work on firearms. Are there some websites that outline this information from people who have already done it?

- The manual makes mention of the hammer spur extension used when a scope is mounted. Do the folks with scopes find that this extension is really needed?

Thank you.

 

[johnmcl]

Wayne,

Welcome to the Club, the best one on THR.....

My first recommendation is to read through the pages and pages of sage advice on this fine rifle in this thread.

On your specific questions, you're definitely on a scope for 100 yards. Now in my opinion your on the outer edge of the 22 RF world at 100 yards. Peep sights, like what the good Dr. Skinner offers, are fine for relatively short distances, but for 50 and over you are definitely on glass. My own preferences for scopes for the 39A run to the small side. We see people putting scopes on them more suited for elk guns, but to each their own.

My own preference for the 39 is a clear fixed-power 4X. At those distances though you may want to check out something that tops out at 7X, like a 3-7X variable. 3-9X are over-scoped for this rifle in my opinion.

I like the Super Sling. It is comfortable, weather-proof and very easily adjusted for length. For your use, a little homework on the 'hasty sling' method would be in order.

I think you should use the hammer extension. There's often less than a thumb width between the bottom of the scope and the hammer.

Best of luck,

 

[JustsayMo]

I would echo JohnMcl's advice. Leupold makes a very nice compact 4x that looks pretty good and mounting it won't hurt the handiness of the rifle much. I believe JohnMcl (I know he won't toot his own horn so I'll do it for him) used that scope to win some of the 39 Club shooting matches we held a while back.

The hammer spur is nice if your scope doesn't have much eye relief. I think the Leupold 4x has quite a bit and can be mounted farther forward than many scopes.

 

[Wayne02]

Thanks for the replies. Maybe something like one of these 2-7x, 33mm? Or the ultralight rimfire 2-7, 28mm with fine duplex? Anyone of these more or less better for old eyes at 100 yards?

http://www.theriflescopestore.com/levxsc.html

Any thoughts on the duplex vs. wide duplex vs. long range duplex?

Also, is it possible for me to search for a particular subject within a thread?

Thanks

 

[CB900F]

Wayne;

I do a lot of hunting varmints with a .22 rimfire. I have a 4X Leupold rimfire scope also, but I wouldn't put it on my model 39 in your situation. Considering that varmint or pest shots can occur at almost any range, I've gone with a good A/O scope on my primary hunting .22. My particular scope is a Nikon Monarch 3.3-10X A/O mil-dot. Since I never know the range or the relationship to the wind for my next shot, the mil-dots and A/O make a great deal of sense for my use.

Now, I'm not advocating that you have to spend serious money on the glass if you don't want to, but I'm also into the degredation of eyesight stage of my life. Therefore, I can tell you that the good glass is certainly worth it for me.

The last time I took that gun out, there were something like 250 shots that day. That's a lot of glass time, and near the end of the day, it makes a difference.

900F

 

[AStone]

Mine wears a Leupold 2-7X.
If you need quick shots on squirrels in the pecan tree, go to 2X.
For those 100 yd shots, take the other end. Sweet glass.

Sling? Quake Claw, mounted African carry (on all my rifles).

Nice to see such good activity here.

Welcome to the Club, the best one on THR.....

This has turned out well, hasn't it?

90 pages.
2,230 posts
127,191 views.

Not bad for an ancient-technology .22 rifle.

 

[JustsayMo]

Those that get the "American Rifleman" magazine might be interested in the mini article on the last page about the Marlin Mountie. It gives a little history background and Blue Book values a 98% Mountie at $350. I'd buy another for that price...

Variable power scopes are versatile but on a 22 it is pretty had to beat a 4x fixed power for simplicity and function for 90%+ of shooting situations. From unrested field positions it can be held steady enough and 4x is plenty of magnification for a vast majority of targets I'd shoot 22's at. 4x is about the limit I can shoot both eyes open comfortably. Good 4x scopes are typically a bargain, lighter weight and as I mentioned earlier, have more eye relief.

One last piece of advice I'd give is no matter what scope you buy get GOOD RINGS to mount it.

 

[Wayne02]

I just started to break this new gun down per the manual to clean it before firing and have run into a problem.

The manual says, "To prevent damage to the ejector while cleaning, hold it down as far as it will go with a small screwdriver, and at the same time insert a second screwdriver into the slotted rivet just ahead of the ejector. Then turn the rivet slightly until the ejector is locked in position."

So I do this and make sure I turn it "slightly", in accordance with the picture in the manual. I gently release the ejector and remove the other screwdriver from the rivet. I notice that the rivet is now jacked up on the ejector side from the pressure of the ejector. I make a mental note that this doesn't seem right and a split second later the rivet busts loose and gets tossed across the desk.

Now I am left with this:

What now? Is this same ejector lock-down mechanism used in all the 39A's throughout the years? Has there been any problems with this in the past? If so, is there a more robust aftermarket part for this application?

I guess I can return it to the dealer but it looks like that mechanism is just held in with the two screws? Do I order a new "ejector base w/rivet", number 14 on the parts list? If all the dealer (or marlin) is going to do is replace this part then it would be less hassle if I just order the part and do it myself?

Thanks

 

[76shuvlinoff]

Wayne, I've replaced mine and there was nothing to it. Just tighten the screws slowly and evenly.

 

[bsaride]

What now? Is this same ejector lock-down mechanism used in all the 39A's throughout the years? Has there been any problems with this in the past? If so, is there a more robust aftermarket part for this application?

I guess I can return it to the dealer but it looks like that mechanism is just held in with the two screws? Do I order a new "ejector base w/rivet", number 14 on the parts list? If all the dealer (or marlin) is going to do is replace this part then it would be less hassle if I just order the part and do it myself?

Thanks

The earlier ones do not have this. Call Marlin and likely they will send new parts to you at no or minimal charge. Just use a little caution in putting back together as there are not alot of threads in there.

 

[Wayne02]

The earlier ones do not have this. Call Marlin and likely they will send new parts to you at no or minimal charge. Just use a little caution in putting back together as there are not alot of threads in there.

Do the earlier ones have the same type of extractor set-up but they just don't have the lock-down feature? Such that you just have to be careful of the extractor when cleaning from the breach on those earlier models?

Is it normal for the rivet to be jacked up on the extractor side when it is engaged to hold the extractor down, or is that rivet supposed to stay flush with the slot when it has the extractor locked down?

Thanks

 

[krs]

Earlier ones worked the same way. Some, and I don't remember which is which model or year range, have steel base instead of the brass.

I'm working off my feeble memory and am too lazy to go find out which version my two old rifles have, but in general there's no change to blame for your issues. Yours just broke, maybe someone overused it or abused it - who can say?

Normally the rivet stays flush - is not 'jacked up'. If it was that's why it broke and it's most likely that it was misused or bubba'd by someone who didn't understand how or why it worked. Should last for generations if the simple instructions are followed.

 

[oldfella]

My Mountie Needs Correct Scope Rings

I shot my Mountie once since I bought it (used) about 5 months ago - what a joy to shot, if I could only hit the target. Here is my problem: I bought a Nikon ProStaff 4X32 Scope, but the rings that came with it do not fit, are too shallow to engage the base. I bought a set of high see-through rings but are too high to properly sight the scope. In other words, I do not have the proper rings to mount this scope - can some one please point me to right rings and the right place to buy them? Better yet, I will trade my one or two pairs of the rings I have for the right set of rings for my scope. Can any one here help this oldfella? Thanks.

Pete

 

[Txhillbilly]

What some people will spend on guns!

Wow,Someone just paid $851.00 for a NIB Model 39A Annie Oakley on Auction Arms. I was going to bid on it until the price got too high. It would've looked good setting next to my NIB 1897 Annie Oakley that I won on an auction a while back,but if someone wants it that bad they can have it.

 

[johnmcl]

Oldfella, I'm excited about your Mountie. I am surprised that your ProStaff rings wouldn't fit. The Marlin sight base is well within specs.

I use the Burris medium rings on 39As with great success. Here's the Midway link, http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=316335

Txhillbilly, I hear ya on the prices these days. While $851 for a 39A seems high, some folks like me are investing in guns for their sons and daughters as well as the fun factor for today. I've paid more than I thought would have normally for a rifle simply because I can imagine its worth in 20 or 50 years.

Still though, $851 is a lot of beer.

 

[oldfella]

John - Thanks for the link on the Burris rings, I've just ordered a pair... and about prices, you are right, buy it while you can - I paid $400 for my mountie, and I thought I paid too much.

Pete

 

[Prairie Planter]

Model 39 info?

Nice to discover this "club." I have two 39s. One is a Golden 39M with a 4x scope.
The other is a Model 39 that has been in the family for a while, but I'm not sure quite how long and not able to find out now that those that might have known have passed on. The serial number is S 8839 and it has a * on the tang. From what little I have been able to find, the "S" may indicate manufacture prior to 1932. Can anybody help with more info or point me in a direction? Thanks.

 

[johnmcl]

Hey Prairie, and welcome to the club.

Check out post #1882 for a good chart on serial numbers vs. year of manufacture. I have your 'S' 39A as a 1959.

Is your barrel round or octagon shaped?

 

[CB900F]

Fella's;

Could anybody supply a picture of the little blue plastic action keeper that was part of the model 39 TDS?

Speaking of: There is a proverbial little ole lady here in town who has a NIB model 39 commemerative, the Wildlife, I think. I'm not so much interested in that as I am the 1905 that's next to it. But she won't let me handle that one anymore 'cause of the way I drooled on it the first time.

900F

 

[Wayne02]

Well alright then, the rifle is fixed.

- received the new 39A on fathers day

- The following day the rivet on the extractor hold down mechanism lets loose (see pictures in previous post on issue)

- I spend the next two days trying to get through to Marlin. Marlin has no customer email contact on their website, a business practice I find strange (to be kind about it). 16 phone calls one one day and 11 on the next, all busy signal.

- I don't have time to spend all day each day calling until I get through to Marlin so I pack up the rifle and return it to my dealer/gunsmith (where it was purchased) and tell him to call me when it is fixed.

- He examines the rivet and brass channel part under magnification. Gun smith says it was likely defective from the factory and he is no fan of the extractor hold-down 'feature', "in these new rifles". Apparently it is not the first time he has seen problems with this mechanisim.

- 4 or 5 days go by while he tries to get a hold of Marlin.

- Message on my machine today - part received, gun is fixed.

- I pick up rifle, give it a cleaning and now it sits in the safe until I have a chance to go the range.

I'm looking forward to shooting this thing and hopefully it will provide years of trouble free service.

Thanks

 

[Wayne02]

Txhillbilly, I hear ya on the prices these days. While $851 for a 39A seems high, some folks like me are investing in guns for their sons and daughters as well as the fun factor for today. I've paid more than I thought would have normally for a rifle simply because I can imagine its worth in 20 or 50 years.

I did the same when I purchased this new 39A. Best I could find was $530 before tax locally, and by the time I added ffl fees and such to a used one from GB it was as much or several cases more than $530 (at the time I was looking).

My intention/hope is that the 39A could be a heirloom, pass down to my son and beyond deal. Only time will tell if it works out that way I guess.

 

[556A2]

Here is my 1967 Golden 39A with my 2008 336A

 

[Rollis R. Karvellis]

Wayne02 don't feel bad I, have a 39a at mairlin now for an extractor problem. If I get it back before the end of the next decade, I'll be surprised. The sad part is about six monthes after sending the gun off, someone here posted a quick fix to the extractor.

 

[Warner]

Hi all,

One of the guns I routinely search the auctions for is a Marlin 39TDS. I find their basic Model 39 quality and 16" barrel to be an irresistible combination and I will not rest until I own one.

Well, lucky me, today's search revealed no less than three of them being offered. One of them sparked a question since I'm not a true historian of this model. Is a brown (maybe even dark red) rubber butt pad ever been stock equipment on a 39TDS? All I’ve ever seen is the black composite one.

Also, what info can someone offer as to quality of the original take-down case that Marlin supplied with these? I fully understand the collector’s angle on them but I have never seen one first hand. Is it closer to the “$15” cases or “$45” cases?

Thanks,

W

 

[Nelg_Kir]

39TDS Case

I have a TDS and it is pretty awesome. Mine's a shooter so I put a marble tang sight on it and a Lyman 17ahb aperture on the front ramp. Pretty deadly combo at 50 yards and I can hit a paper plate at 100. The rifle could do better if i could see better!

The case I have is very similar to the Papoose case. It's blue like the new ones not red. It has different sleeves of course for each half of the rifle. I can't imagine it selling for $15.00 although I don't know the diff between the two cases you mentioned.

I lost the little plastic bolt keeper but so far that has not been a problem. However, if anyone has one...