The Marlin 39 Club

[greevestim]

thanks. got it 469.00 metal 97+
Wood 90%
Very smooth action
never had sling swivels
appreciate your help
tim

 

[icedruid]

Went to the gun show yesterday to have a look around. Wasn't really looking for anything in particular but I'm always interested to see what shows up.

Across the isle from one table I noticed a Marlin 39 ("bullseye in the stock and 22 loading slot on the tubular magazine.) As I moved closer to the guy's table I saw that it was a Mountie length barrel. That really got my attention so I hustled over to the rack to check it out.

What they guy had was a 39M Article II Mountie. The 39M Article II was a commemorative rifle produced by Marlin to mark the 100th year anniversary of the NRA. It sports a 20" octagon barrel, a straight, un-checkered stock, and a brass crescent buttplate. The right side of the receiver has a medallion embedded in it that says "The right to bear arms...1871-1971" with the NRA logo. From everything I've read it appears as though they only made 3824 of these little beauties. The gun was in terrific condition at about 98% on both the bluing and wood. The bore was bright and shiny with sharp lands and grooves and the crown was in great shape as well. (Unfortunately, someone spoiled the collector value by mounting sling studs on it but I was looking for a Mountie to shoot, not sit in the safe.) The guy was a little high on the price but after a little bit of negotiating we both got to a price we could live with. I came home from the gun show with a beautiful (new to me) Mountie to add to the collection. Unfortunately, honey-do's kept me away from the range today but next weekend will find me out in the desert slinging 22 caliber lead down range with this rifle (and the S&W Model 41 I picked up yesterday as well.) The extra weeks delay will give me a chance to install the Skinner sight that I ordered today for this rifle. I'll report back and let you know how she shoots.



Icedruid

 

[tk1971]

Just got back into the hobby. Time to buy a gun or two (three or four). Replaced 2 Fab-10 welded mag well lower receivers with real ones (w/ mag button, of course for CA).

Got shell shocked by the price of ammo shooting my M1A, AR, P228, and Sigma 40.

Decided on buying my first set of 22's (rifle and pistol). Googled the best 22 rifle and found the 39 club, along with other sites praising the 39A. I'm in.

Here is my 39A from 1948 (next to my Ruger Old Army).



I'm still waiting my CA required 10 days to pick up my Ruger MKIII. It was part of that million firearm back order, so I hope it is up to par (quality-wise), since I have not set eyes on her yet.

This thread has been very helpful in my research. Thanks.

 

[krooks]

1953 39A family heirloom

Greetings,
I live in Alaska and own a few guns, but my special baby is my mom's 1953 (Letter K before serial # beneath lever) Marlin lever-action Model 39A 22. I was given it a few years ago, and just kept it safe and untouched, but I'd like to use it, not just stick it above the fireplace. I shot it today and hit less than an inch to the right of the bullseye at 30 yards with some Rem value-pack LR rounds. (prob. didn't hit the bull because of MY lack of skill, not a pblm with the gun). I have several questions/requests for advice about this special rifle.

First, it appears to be original everything. Peep sights (or maybe they're called "ghost" now) were added...just a round ring with elev/lat. adjustment wheels. There is one cradle for (I assume) a scope?? What scope would even mount on it like that? I hesitate to mess up the rifle by putting a scope on it. If anything, I'd like to get rid of the old peep sights (or figure out how to make them work...it's as far to the R as it goes and still feels in need of adjustment0. Or maybe I ought to leave those old timey things on there. I think the less messing with what's original, the better.

It is in fantastic shape, but when I moved to SE Alaska (rainforest, ocean) from MN, a bit of rust started forming on the barrel; I have done my best to remove and protect it, gently, with Hoppes products. I took it apart for its first cleaning in probably decades now today. Advice? Blueing has faded around lever to a satin smooth kind of pewter looking finish ( no rust, just lighter in color than blued places). Should I consider re-blueing the few little scratches on barrel? How does one do that?

The stock is walnut and is virtually perfect; there are a few dings and I'd like to use the best product possible to keep it beautiful.

I plan to use the gun for fun/target practice, to prepare me and get me in better shooting shape for deer season. I can't get much farther than 50 yards from target in my yard, but it should help, right? Thoughts on sights for target practice with this rifle that will not mess it up looks-wise are welcome!!

Any other thoughts, tips, etc. most welcoe. Will try and post a pic of it; it is really in great shape and I'm never selling due to the family history behind it. My mom, who is 75 now, used to shoot rattlesnakes in the head with this thing down in ol Miss. I hope I can get that good. Thanks all.

 

[vaupet]

hi krooks,

welcome to THR and the club

You have a beautiful rifle and have the moral obligation to keep it healthy so to be able to pass it on ;-)

I would leave it as it is.

for the useful-fun distances of this rifle (up to 100 yards) good peep sights can keep up with cheap scopes anyday (that is, of course, if your eyes are still up to it).

normally you can get the sighting fixed by shifting the front sight left or right

(opposite to rear sight: if you want to shift the point of impact to the left, you move the front sight to the right)

you can do this until you shoot to point of aim with the peeps in the middle leaving you ample adjustement at the range.

greetz

and I would love to get my hands on an aged 39, much more beautiful (imho) then a reblued one.

 

[matt640h]

Please help me put a value on this gun:

• Marlin 39
• Serial# 51**
• Manufactured 1883?
• Bluing fair to good, shows lots of use and a little wear but almost no rust.
• Case coloring good
• Front site is bent
• Stock is chipped in one spot and shows lots of use/wear.
• Octagon barrel, I don't see any rust in the bore but it is very dirty, I do see rifling.
• Moving the lever action seems a little rough, it seems like it is likely dirty and gummed up.

Here are some photos http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj68/matt640h/Marlin%2039/

Thanks!

 

[CaliCoastie]

I believe your date is off a far as age, it should be somewhere early 1920's, price? Search around gunbroker, armslist, gunsamerica.

 

[dfariswheel]

The Marlin pre-39-A series was the Model 39.
The Model 39 was made from 1922 to 1938. There were between 40,000 to 50,000 made in that time period.
Yours would have been made in the 1920s.

It's impossible to judge from photos, but a Model 39 value would run from about $1,600 in 60% to $3,250 in 90%.
Early rifles without a prefix to the serial number or an "S" prefix are noted for the finer fit and finish than later guns.

WARNING: These early Model 39 rifles can only be fired with Standard Velocity ammo. DO NOT fire High Velocity, or the bolt will break.
The only Model 39 rifles that are safe to shoot with High Speed ammo are those that have a "HS" prefix to the serial number.

 

[greevestim]

older marlin with scope I ran into
serial C3460
with a M L Stith scope base with front portion mount on barrel and rear base mount o left side of reciever with 3 small hex bolts
metal is 90% wood appears to be old varn with forearm 90 % but buttstock has bubling varnish with water marks. Buttstock had end plate of plastic with horizon groves and no Marlin name.
Store owner says it worth 1500.00 plus because of the
stith mount. Rifle is fitted with Weaver model 330 scope with finish about 85 %
Action seems to function correctly. Formerrear sight mound had decent looking block off insert.
Nice present rifle for a 39A but I feel like its a little over the top price wise.
Any thought.
Don't have photo
Thanks for your input
Tim

 

[greevestim]

follow up on last request opinions on C3460.
Scope appears to be lowwer like 2 or 3 power with external uncapped adjustments and scope has fine reticles and is not very clear.
Tim

 

[iawolfeman]

Wow, 39ers are an amazing bunch. I always wanted one, and after a lucky bid (or two) on GB and I am the proud owner of a 1957 39A. Only problem I can see is that someone attempted to make a large loop lever out of it and I'm afraid I may not be able to get it back into original shape. Is there somewhere I can get a replacement lever??

 

[dfariswheel]

greevestim

Personally I think it's over priced in that condition. These early post-war 39-A's had a plain oil finish on the wood, with no surface varnish.

iawolfeman
I'm not sure what version lever a 1957 would use.
The earlier post-war levers had a stud in the receiver the lever fit over, and a screw that screwed into that stud to hold the lever.
Later rifles had a screw that screws through the receiver to hold the lever. These can be identified by simply looking at the right lower receiver for the screw end showing on the receiver side.

I just can't remember if the actual lever itself was different or not.
In any case, here's sources for 39-A levers:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=283/schematicsdetail/39A
(Brand new current make for the 39-AS. Probably wouldn't work for your rifle. Click on "Show SKU Listing" to see prices).

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=640

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=639
(For "old style"???)

http://www.jackfirstgun.com/
(Gotta call, but they can tell you exactly which you need).

http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/cgi-bin/webdata/webdata_gunparts.cgi

 

[greevestim]

early c prefex with m l stith base

dfariswheel, thanks for your thoughts. i have a few, few early post ww2 39a's and don't plan on getting this one as your are right. its priced a wee bit too high. i did a little research and texan m l stith made some strong and very nice though unusual mounts. his claim to fame was making custom mounts primarily for pre and post ww2 model 70 winchesters i just buy nice to new 39a's all pre (as models) and shoot them all. i appreciate your vast knowledge

 

[benchedsighted]

The Ode to Marlin 39A. Here are the real reasons for your newer 39A to Fail-To-Fire (FTF) and Fail-To-Extract (FTE) and the options to “tune” your rifle or have it “tuned” for you. My 39A is now 2 years old and out of the box its performance was dismal with any brand and level of ammo. As I do not intend to use this in any high end competition, I would prefer it to do well with bulk ammo. Here were the stats with the top 3 bulk ammo sellers for each 18 rd load of LRs. For Winchester bulk I had an average of 10 FTF and 7 FTE. Remington was 7 FTF and 7 FTE. Federal was the best with 5 FTF and 3 FTE. The problem is both FTF and FTE should be 0. Through surfing the internet and trial-and-failure of most of the suggestions I have found the two most common causes and fixes.

My first try was to shorten the bottom of the “Hammer Rebound Strut”. If you have done any searching and fixing, I’m sure you know what I am talking about. With the first two fixes I am going to suggest you will not need to do this. I am now using a new unaltered strut and every round fires with no annoying spring ping after the shot.

You can do these fixes yourself if you are handy with tools and are really careful. I always make small changes and test in order to find the stopping point. I alter the cheapest parts to replace first in any attempt to tune things. You can have a qualified gunsmith read what the problem is along with their assessment and fix, or you can send the 39A back to Marlin (Remington) with an explanation of the problem. I found that it’s a real gamble sending it back to Marlin and getting a working rifle back.

1. The first thing to check and fix is the “Cartridge Guide Spring”. This is a small spring that is on the inside top of the receiver that helps guide the next round into the chamber. The problem with the spring is that it sticks down too far. The first problem caused is that it blocks a spent cartridge from extracting. The second problem, one I have not seen on the internet, is that it interferes with the firing pin. This is the cause of the many FTF’s and not the “Hammer Rebound Strut”. I have read where some owners have fooled around with the mounting screw that holds this in place or have bent the spring. These fixes may help with FTE, but not with FTF. I experience two things when trying them. First the screw holding the spring is only long enough to catch 2 or 3 threads in the spring on a part of the spring that is a lip created by the hole being stamped. The lip breaks and the screw won’t hold the spring in place. Second, the spring is small and brittle…it breaks. The real problem with the spring is that the slot where it is mounted in the receiver is not deep enough. I used a Dremel tool to carefully ground a deeper channel. This fixed the FTF’s down to 0 even for the Winchester bulk.

2. The next major problem causing FTE was that the bolt was not closing completely. I had about .01” gap after closing the bolt. When the round was fired this gap allowed the cartridge to bulge just above the rim, jamming it in the chamber. You can fix this by either: 1. Cold hammer the end of the finger lever were it locks the bolt or 2. Heat up the end of the finger lever were it locks the bolt and hammer it slightly to extrude the metal out. After extruding you will probably have to use needle files to adjust it so it is not too tight. If it is too tight the “Finger Lever Screw” will break.

These two fixes will probably solve all the FTF’s and FTE’s. I had one more that I did that seems to assure extraction of the most stubborn of brass. I filed the end of the ramp on the barrel were the extractor sits when the bolt is in lock position. This created a slight notch in the chamber that allows the extractor to get all the way into the rim. I then filed the ramp itself to make a smooth transition for the extractor. A result of the 3 fixes above…0 FTF’s and FTE’s using any type and length of ammo.

 

[CB900F]

Benchedsighted;

Thank you for that very informative post.

900F

 

[AStone]

Ditto, Benched. Have only scanned it near sleep time, but will read again tomorrow.

Seems like a concise summary of what I've read on MoF plus more.

Nem

 

[Jacob L Freeman]

My first gun ever is my 1967 39A Golden Mountie. It came from my grandpa, who passed it to my dad, who gave it to my cousin who gave it to me. So as far as I know, it's been in the family since it was new. Complete with original leather strap and in almost mint condition. Whenever my coworkers and I go shooting, it's the 39A they can't wait to get their hands on. IMO, it's the finest .22 ever made and it will never leave my family.

 

[MadDogVAQ33]

Help finding a part!

I have a Model 39 Serial Number S 12115. My Grandfather traded a 16-gauge single-barrel shotgun for this in 1925.

Katrina caught it and I have been gradually restoring it to maintain its character, but when I was testing for a planned test shoot I encountered a problem.

I loaded some CBs into the magazine and tried to cycle the action. Immediately several CBs "dumped" out of the magazine and jammed the action. I took a quick look and realized that the cartridge stop(?) screwed to the left sideplate of the action was "frozen" with corrosion and allowing cartridges to "dump" out of the magazine.

I soaked the stop (actually a spring) with Breakfree overnight and then used a small blade screwdriver (computer-repair small) to try GENTLY to free the flat spring. The result was an instant snapping of the stop about a third of the way from the screw attachment point. The metal appeared crystallized.

To make a long story short I now find myself in need of that cartridge stop to make the rifle functional once again. Any help anyone gave give in locating a replacement spring would be deeply appreciated. I am not certain if the later Model 39A
stop will fit.

Please feel free to contact me individually or post here.

 

[dfariswheel]

First, be aware that if your rifle doesn't have a "HS" prefix before the serial number, the rifle should NOT be fired with High Speed ammo.
You should shoot it only with Standard Velocity ammo or risk a high likelihood of breaking the bolt.

Model 39 rifles with an "S" prefix were noted for superior workmanship.

For an original 39 cut off check with these sources. You need to be very clear about which version you need. It's possible a newer type will work. The early Model 39-A version was the same and the slightly later style with a spacer that fit under the stop will probably work:

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=640
(Exactly what the difference is between a "cartridge cut off" and a "cartridge stop" is, I'm not sure in this case.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/rifles/marlin/rflever.htm

http://www.jackfirstgun.com/

 

[PX15]

FWIW:

I bought this 1950 39A from a friend back in July 2011 for $200.00. It would NOT fire or function properly but I knew that up front. At the very least it had a problem with the breech bolt.

My friend had his gunsmith work on it and he gave up.. I showed it to my local gunsmith and he said it would cost approximately $200.00 in labor + parts and even then he couldn't guarantee it would be fixed. In fact his suggestion was to "break it down" and "sell it for parts".. He thought I would be able to get my money back doing so.

I finally sent it to Paducah Shooters Supply (authorized Marlin repair facility for the S.E. U.S.) and it took a long, long time, but UPS brought her back a couple of days ago and it's functioning perfectly... A pleasure shooter.

I had sent along a new breech bolt when I shipped the gun to be repaired, but it did not fit so work would have been necessary to get it back into shooting condition..

Services performed for $126.38 (incld return shipping) included:

Fit bolt to action, set headspace, adjust lever lock up and adjust shell cut off for proper function with new bolt. Polished dirty chamber, test function and test fired.

So, for around $390.00 I have a 62 year old classic Marlin 39A... One more old 39A restored to shoot, one less broken down for parts..

I also have a nice 1975 39A w/peep sight, a like new 1996 39A, and two 1970 Century Limited's.. I love 'em all, but this old 1950 was "calling my name" and I'm so pleased Paducah Shooters Supply was able to fix her for me.

If anyone asked I'd say Paducah Shooters Supply won't get in a hurry fixing your gun, but they are good and what they do, and the repair prices are more than reasonable. The gentleman who I dealt with all of the time was named Charlie, and if you need help with your Marlin 39A I'd recommend PSS and Charlie without reservation...

Jesse

 

[cottswald]

Patience is bitter but it's fruit is sweet. Very nice looking 39 Jesse!

 

[wankerjake]

Aw, I wanna be in the club! Here's a pic of my 39A durin it's first squirrel season (at least with me):

 

[AStone]

You're in, Jake. Looks like an older one. Stats and story?

Nice scope, too. Hope to hear more about that.

 

[wankerjake]

I've wanted one ever since I saw Cottswald post pics of his. About 3 weeks after I was getting a steady post-education paycheck I saw this one online for $335 shipped. I couldn't resist and figured I deserved it. It's an older one, came with a Weaver B4 (pictured). The scope still tracks but is not very clear, so I bought a Weaver G4 on 24hr campfire and it's not clear either. Kinda sore about that actually. So then I found a Weaver marksman and that's what's on there now. It's clear and the tube is steel but the eyepiece is plastic. I'm not sure what to do, I don't like the plastic but I like the clarity. It's tough to find a clear 3/4: vintage tube, so it seems. I've seen some 2 old weaver 3/4" scopes in the pawn shop lately and they aren't clear either.

Anyway, it's a classy squirrel rig but makes it a bit tricky with crappy clarity. We'll see how it does this year with the marksman.

 

[Old judge creek]

Well, I reckon I'm a 39er, too since mine is a Marlin 1897 Cowboy model with the long octagonal barrel and wearing the factory Marbles front and rear sights. IIRC, I bought this rifle back in 1998 and apparently they were a short run by Marlin as I've seen VERY few since.

I rate this rifle as an indispensable member of my battery. Quite frankly, if I were forced to liquidate my 22 rifles down to one, I do believe this one would be the last man standing.