What have you done in the reloading room today

Put some estate sale items on the shelves in the reloading shop today.
The dies and swaging kit look unused. I'll be using the 7mm bullets in the 7mm-08. I don't have use for the 6mm bullets yet...... Who knows, tomorrow is another day, a 243 could be added to the inventory. I don't think I did bad for $50.00

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Out in the reloading room trying to get set up and practice making cases for the stony point tool. This was a scrap imi case, but I had to find, install, clean and lube up the collet chuck. Good times playing with the new to me lathe 20231216_230356.jpg
 
Pulled out all the stuff to load test cartridges for the Kinetic HE .38’s but life and tropical storm weather got in the way. Maybe tomorrow.
 
Yesterday, got my 3d printed bullet feeder assembled and set up. Today's plan is to get it adjusted to collate Lee 158gr rnfp and load up some 357 mag.
 
Hmm interesting. So I think I figured out the issue. I think the chamber walls are extremely tight on the aftermarket Glock 21 barrel as it seems like with the 1 turn in shorter coal the bullets don't hit the lands anymore but the brass seems like it's scraping the sides of the chamber. In the factory Glock 21 barrel they fit decently. And I've been using the same dies (and brass gets randomly loaded) the whole time with my nighthawk barreled 1911 so idk what to think about that. I wonder if I could hone it out with a special tool? It just needs tiny bit buffed off like when you flex hone cylinder walls on a 200k mile truck engine before putting new rings on the pistons?
Edit, I adjusted my coal back out a smidge as it's was very on the line with min COAL... I got it back up to 1.25ish with these 185gr bullets now.
View attachment 1184789
View attachment 1184790
P.S. I really like these Mac dial calipers, no dadgum batteries to die on you on Saturday at 10pm lol. I recommend them if you don't already have a good set that you trust.
I have no idea how to read a dial caliper. None. What’s the reading? Something “ish”?
 
I have no idea how to read a dial caliper. None. What’s the reading? Something “ish”?
Well let me explain the "ish" part for ya. So I think this exact seating die has a slight amount of slop in it and will be off a couple thousandths each time potentially, I really should get a better one to test and see if it just me or what. Now for the "how to read" part, I will try to as un condescending as possible as I understand not everyone helps rebuild rear differentials and stuff at work like I currently do so others may not be well versed in dial calipers...
ALSO, my caliper is a standard and metric combo unit so I will be focusing on the inch part for this exercise. The bottom of the ruler is inches and the black needle and black numbers are inch increments.

EDIT: IM A DUMMY, lol. I've been corrected, the reading is 1.225", NOT 1.25" as I originally stated.

Here a marked up pic of the dial caliper.
20231216_120430~2.jpg
If you can read my autistic diagram, I labeled that by reading the flat metal ruler (like a tape measure for you carpenter types) you get 1.2 something inches but can't tell exactly what since that part isn't fine enough.
That's where the dial comes in.
20231216_120430~3.jpg
So by looking at the dial from the top green line I drew that is "0" as in if this was a 1in long COAL the black needle would be at the top and the slide ruler would just barely be at the 1in mark. But since this is a 1.25ish COAL really more of a 1.255 COAL the line is reading just past the .25 mark but not at the .26 mark yet. As indicated by the second green line I drew.
Hope this helps not just you, but others as well.
 
Pulled out all the stuff to load test cartridges for the Kinetic HE .38’s but life and tropical storm weather got in the way. Maybe tomorrow.
The .38s are what RMR has been showing on their website for the last couple weeks right? I wish they would get their 45 Auto stuff worked out so I could support them more...
 
Well let me explain the "ish" part for ya. So I think this exact seating die has a slight amount of slop in it and will be off a couple thousandths each time potentially, I really should get a better one to test and see if it just me or what. Now for the "how to read" part, I will try to as un condescending as possible as I understand not everyone helps rebuild rear differentials and stuff at work like I currently do so others may not be well versed in dial calipers...
ALSO, my caliper is a standard and metric combo unit so I will be focusing on the inch part for this exercise. The bottom of the ruler is inches and the black needle and black numbers are inch increments.

Here a marked up pic of the dial caliper.
View attachment 1184910
If you can read my autistic diagram, I labeled that by reading the flat metal ruler (like a tape measure for you carpenter types) you get 1.2 something inches but can't tell exactly what since that part isn't fine enough.
That's where the dial comes in.
View attachment 1184911
So by looking at the dial from the top green line I drew that is "0" as in if this was a 1in long COAL the black needle would be at the top and the slide ruler would just barely be at the 1in mark. But since this is a 1.25ish COAL really more of a 1.255 COAL the line is reading just past the .25 mark but not at the .26 mark yet. As indicated by the second green line I drew.
Hope this helps not just you, but others as well.
That does it. Thanks
 
Yesterday, got my 3d printed bullet feeder assembled and set up. Today's plan is to get it adjusted to collate Lee 158gr rnfp and load up some 357 mag.
It's crazy how useful the printer is with reloading, black powder and guns in general. I've made tons of grips, magazines, stocks, dippers, powder tricklers, powder trays, reloading trays, display stands, storage boxes and frames for CVA muzzleloading pistols.
 
It's crazy how useful the printer is with reloading, black powder and guns in general. I've made tons of grips, magazines, stocks, dippers, powder tricklers, powder trays, reloading trays, display stands, storage boxes and frames for CVA muzzleloading pistols.
Give a man a new toy he will find a million ways to play with it to expound its value..... printer, lathe, drill press. All are wonderful machines that can add a ton of value to our loading experience.
 
In my man cave where reloading happens. I added a cheap gun cabinet for the stuff I am working on at the moment. Just a little eight cheap cabinet. Mounted to some boards to give it more stability. Boxes of bullets on bottom for weight. Sorted thru all my reloading stuff and built a shelf for top of cabinet. ready to get back in the game ...
 
It's crazy how useful the printer is with reloading, black powder and guns in general. I've made tons of grips, magazines, stocks, dippers, powder tricklers, powder trays, reloading trays, display stands, storage boxes and frames for CVA muzzleloading pistols.
No doubt! A case feeder, bullet feeder, reloading trays, and gun tools have been rolling out of mine.

My original printer went down hard, had no qualms buying a new one because of how useful these things are.
 
Well let me explain the "ish" part for ya. So I think this exact seating die has a slight amount of slop in it and will be off a couple thousandths each time potentially, I really should get a better one to test and see if it just me or what. Now for the "how to read" part, I will try to as un condescending as possible as I understand not everyone helps rebuild rear differentials and stuff at work like I currently do so others may not be well versed in dial calipers...
ALSO, my caliper is a standard and metric combo unit so I will be focusing on the inch part for this exercise. The bottom of the ruler is inches and the black needle and black numbers are inch increments.

Here a marked up pic of the dial caliper.
View attachment 1184910
If you can read my autistic diagram, I labeled that by reading the flat metal ruler (like a tape measure for you carpenter types) you get 1.2 something inches but can't tell exactly what since that part isn't fine enough.
That's where the dial comes in.
View attachment 1184911
So by looking at the dial from the top green line I drew that is "0" as in if this was a 1in long COAL the black needle would be at the top and the slide ruler would just barely be at the 1in mark. But since this is a 1.25ish COAL really more of a 1.255 COAL the line is reading just past the .25 mark but not at the .26 mark yet. As indicated by the second green line I drew.
Hope this helps not just you, but others as well.
That caliper reads 1.225". Your 1.2 with the red lines is correct, the part you explained with the green lines on the dial read the hundredths an thousandths, so .025, not .25.
 
No doubt! A case feeder, bullet feeder, reloading trays, and gun tools have been rolling out of mine.

My original printer went down hard, had no qualms buying a new one because of how useful these things are.
Pretty soon we’re going to need a new thread: What have you printed in the reloading room today?” 😁👍
 
I loaded up 100 44 Mag with Hornady 240 gr XTPs. I did finish up the already open box of bullets (48 rounds). Opened another box -same model (44200). I proceed to load the remaining 52. I, as always, periodically check COL when seating. I was set for 1.600 for the original box. The new box seated at 1.615 - consistently. I readjusted the seater and proceeded on my way.
I checked the lot numbers - they are different. Even the bullets look a bit different. The original box look more "rounded" the new box look more angular/cone shaped.

Anyone seen this before? Normal?
 
Put together 20 of the 77gr SMKs with the new subsonic data I got from Hodgdon. They list a 24in barrel with a 1:12 twist as what they used to get their velocity numbers. So idk how a 10.5 1:7 or a 16 1:7 will effect them. I'll see. They won't cycle I almost guarantee it unless you had some stupid light set up with a short gas system and a much heavier bullet. I think Atomic Ammo made a 112gr cycling subsonic load but it's basically vaporware IMHO.
20231217_143903.jpg

Here's what GRT says.
24in 1:12 twist barrel as Hodgdon lists.
20231217_150500.jpg

16in 1:7 twist like my new build has.
20231217_150546.jpg
Basically the only difference is the tighter twist makes the bullet spin way faster as indicated by projectile speed in RPM. Same general velocity, nothing too crazy there. Although it does estimate it as being 1400fps for some reason... 🤔
 
Sacrificed on of my lapua match 223 cases to make the stonypoint tool case. Measured bothe the 75 and 80 eldm in my gun and they are close enough to be the same in my chamber. The difference is in how much bearing surface ends up in the neck of my brass if I go .020 off.
 
DOH IM a dummy. Nevermind, disregard my posts from now on.
Hope my post didn't come off mean! Wasn't meant that way!

Actually, it reads 31.12mm...
It sure does!

This evening I sized and flared some 44 Mag cases to try out some 2400 I traded my father in law for. Also got a lb of retumbo in the trade and started looking at 7mm Rem Mag loads with 162's
 
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