642 Club Part Three

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DAdams said:
We are more a lose knit organization favoring S&W J Frame Revolvers than a Club. Our barrier to entry is nothing and our dues are commradrie, civility, an exchange of information, and thirst for knowledge regarding most things snub like or related there-of. :D

Welcome
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Well thanks for the welcome.

DAdams said:
Bud's has both the 642 and 442. Includes Shipping ($6 extra for insurance). That is a "cash" price.
I have always sent a personal check via mail and that slows things up using USPS and clearing time.

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/21_39_72/sort/6a/page/1

$361 and $375 respectively.
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Is the difference between the 642 and the 442 merely the finish? I'm trying to do my due diligence. I had a 642 in my hand today at a local mass merchandiser it was on 'sale' for 459.00 . I'm rather glad to see your post, I almost freed some dead Presidents from my wallet but I hate impulse buys. I tend to find out I bit too quick. I liked the trigger and it felt good in my hand.

DAdams said:
I have purchased two firearms from Bud's as recently as a couple of weeks ago and the transactions have been seamless. Free shipping to your FFL. Yours may already be on their list, but if not let your transferring dealer know you would like to have one shipped into them and they send a copy of their FFL to Buds to keep on file. Typically there is a 20-50 transfer fee charged by the Dealer, that may or may not include the background check. Your dealers practices and fees may vary and State Laws differ.
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Can you clear one thing up, I looked at Buds site and it had free shipping with an * claiming it didn't cover next day air. Back when I was using my 03FFL for curio's, handguns had to be shipped next day air. Are you getting free shipping for handguns?

I have a gent that does my transfers for 01FFL stuff that is easy to work with.

Thanks,

Clutch
 
Is the difference between the 642 and the 442 merely the finish
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Exactly. Personal preference. Black is a bit stealthier perhaps. The 642 has a clearcote over the finish which apparently will wear with friction and time. Characterize it as personality wear or send it back to S&W someday for refurb if it hangs you up.The black gets some shine/polish at its wear points. Don't use products containing ammonia. Don't use Kleen Bore patches on anything but bare stainless, that means you can use them on the 642 cylinder to remove "racoon eyes" but not on the 442 cylinder. It will remove the finish. No big deal on the 442 since you can't see the carbonization, another reason to go 442.

Bud's ships free where noted. I think everything they do goes free these days. I don't know how they ship, but it is probably next day, second to third at the most. I have always added the $6 for insurance and have never paid attention to how or who it ships with. Fine print maybe? I suspect UPS or Fed Ex.

Bud's displayed price is "cash" ie check, money order. They add I think 3% for CC. Me, I'm patient, I reserve with CC, send a personal check and let it clear which makes the cycle/immediate gratification time go up.

Have your FFL send them their information. Bud's will put them on their list and the next time you just look them up in the drop down menu.

Double check the model number on their description and cross reference with the S&W site to make sure you are getting what the SKU number states.
Bud's sometimes has photos that don't match the SKU. It is just a website maintenance issue, their volume is large. Their directions are thorough. I have never spoken with anyone via phone, everything was completed via mail, the check and email. They updated me throughout the process completely.

I have no affiliation with Bud's and have used them 3 times with no issues. Two handguns and a rifle.
 
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Naat, good to know. Now that I think about it, one could get a couple fingers in that gap to hold onto and push in the first two rounds with the thumb, then without shifting anything, push in the last two with the palm and strip them off. Good stuff, never thought of that as a technique.

I've been reading and skimming through part 2 of the 642 club. Lots of information on peoples' feelings about loadings, oil, grip choices, etc. And pretty pictures! Very informative. I really want my 442. Just five more months... :fire:
 
About lubing, I have hoppe's oil and hoppe's grease. So far I've only cleaned it twice, only shot it once, and I only used the oil on the rod that pushes the casings out, I don't know what its called. But I dripped a drop on both sides and slid it back and forth a couple times. And I also put a drop on the hinge, also don't now the name of it. I couldn't thinking of anywhere else to lube it, nor could I thinking of reasons to use grease instead... I'm too last to search through 500,004 posts for my answer and the search function doesn't work with my cell phone.
 
After a long, long hiatus, it is awesome to see this thread still alive and kicking -- very well, I might add.

I sold my original 642 and missed it so. I just picked up another one yesterday after kicking myself over the last few months for selling it, so this one's here to stay and once I had it cleaned up and back on my hip, I remembered immediately why I loved this gun to begin with.

Now my interest in the Mika has skyrocketed. I think I'll be placing an order tomorrow. What's the general consensus in regards to round versus square?? It seems as if round is the way to go. Anyone have both, and if so, any feedback?? I'd appreciate it.

Oh, and of course, here's the obligatory photo:

DSC00397-1.jpg ​
 
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Those Hogue boot grips look to be pretty popular on the x42s. Is there any issue with the rubbery material holding onto clothes?

Also, how good is the finish on the 442s? I know with daily carry there's not a finish in the world that won't wear eventually, but is it reasonable durable?
 
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Carryin' Reloads

i also use the same speedstrip wallet. it is from Dillon Precision, but perfer the 2-3 split. you get all 5 for a reload and still have room for a finger in the middle. i carry the reload on the belt at about the 4 O'clock or 4:30 position strongside. sometimes in addition to..a second strip wallet in the same position weakside. with some practice, access to the reload and actual reloading can be pretty fast. but it takes practice. when i shoot the 442 i usually reload 80-90% of my ammo from this scenerio. practice.
 

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riceboy72
What's the general consensus in regards to round versus square?? It seems as if round is the way to go. Anyone have both, and if so, any feedback?
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Personally I would order the round-cut first. I have both and use the round-cut pretty much all the time. I've found it to be the most versatile of the two in my pants pockets (mostly jeans.) I do use the square cut in cargo shorts in the summer and the inside pocket of my ranch coat in the winter.

I have a bunch of pocket holsters, but the Mika versions get used the most. They are a bit bulkier than the cloth ones like Uncle Mikes, but offer a much better draw and don't lose their shape over time.

In fact, I spoke to a gun writer / retired LAPD after I saw an old Mika (minus the grip band) in one of his articles. I forget how many years he said that he'd been using the holster...but it was a bunch! Used daily for years on the job and now in retirement, the holster still performs as designed.

rd
 
Brass Rain ~ The first thing I've done with each 642 I've had over the last three years was replace the original boot grips with the Hogue Batam. I think they're the ideal rubber grip. They, to me, seem to absorb recoil better, and I like the cobblestone texture and palm swell. It's also 'stickier' than the original boot grips, be they the Uncle Mike's or the newest version. They aren't so sticky, however, where I've ever had an issue with it not wanting to come out of my pocket when I did pocket carry. At $17.99, I strongly recommend them if you prefer a boot grip, but are looking for a better option than the factory original. Mind you, they're the same size as the original grips, so you will still have that wandering pinky that has to huddle up under the butt.

As for the finish, I've never had an issue with mine. I'm very meticulous about using only Hoppe's Elite and have a small cleaning kit specifically dedicated to this gun.

rdrancher ~ Thanks for your feedback with the Mika. I am going to order one as soon as I get off this page. It's nice to see he's so customer oriented and makes what many opine to be the best pocket holster for the x42. I had and used the DeSantis Nemesis for years, but I always knew there was better out there. Now I'll give the Mika round a try.

As for carrying reloads, I carry two Bianchi Speed Strips in a leather cel phone case on my hip. It holds two strips nicely and allows me to pull them out one at a time, without pulling the other one free. It, to me, is the ideal carry case for two reloads, and it looks like a cel phone on my hip. 10 extra rounds of .38 and no one is the wiser ... not even me half the time.

SDC16390.jpg

SDC16393.jpg ​
 
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Brass Rain said:
What made you decide to trade in your LCR for the 642? I'm considering the LCR, but heavily leaning to the 442 just because I like it more. Not being able to open the cylinder release with my index finger is a negative, though.

On an unrelated note, I've seen pictures people have taken of the x42s, often posed with speed strips. And I've noticed many times the strips will be loaded two rounds on one end, two rounds on the other, and the two spots in the middle empty. 642s hold five rounds, so why only load four? Is it just to look even in the picture?
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I got back into snubbies after retiring from law enforcement. Usually carried a small auto back-up then. When the LCR first came out, I just loved the look and the grips. Trigger on mine was good, and shot like a dream. Just got a wild hair one day when I noticed a 2.5 inch 642 sitting in the case at my local gun dealer, and decided I had to have it, but needed to make a trade. Love both of them, but only "needed" one. Just boils down to that I just like the Smith's better. Had several in my pre-law enforcement days.
 
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riceboy-
That Speedstrip case is a great idea and an example of creativity that makes this Thread so great. Nice picture and great depth of field (setting) effect.

Someone once commented that a Mika roundcut will work in both square and round cut pockets but not vice versa. Makes sense. I think canting migh take place round in a square but I don't know that it might be a big deal unless canted too far forward? I have a round cut and it works well in everything but the most oversized baggy pockets in my Columbia PFGs, where square would probably work best. At around $20 bucks get one of each....or the DeSantis Nemesis has a flat base, which I occassionally use if I happen to think about it.

Grip durometer (softness) rating. I have not found a grip yet that is too soft to inferfere with clearing pocket. The reason for that has nothing to do with the softness (grippiness) but with the way your hand covers the grip while bringing the X42 from the pocket. Your hand is the interfering or contact point, not the grip. Lesson. Don't wear rubber gloves while attempting a rapid retrieval :D. A possible exception might be the Hogue Monogrip where some of the butt might be exposed to cloth. Even then I don't recall any issues, but it has been a number of years since I pocket carried with a J Frame and Monogrips. Those with wood grips or very hard synthetics or bone who occassionally comment that rubber grips are an issue need to put on a pair of Bantams and refresh their memories.

I wouldn't lose any sleep over the 442 finish S&W calls it "matte black". I think it is a spray and bake finish and has been used for many years and is quite durable it is coating the aluminum alloy frame. The cylinder, is carbon steel on the 442 as is the barrel and are "blued".
Some have stated the frame finish is anodized black on a 442, I can't argue with that but it doesn't look like anozing to me. I would like to know the absolute definitive answer so if anyone knows with 100% certainty, please let us know.

Other ultimate finishes include hard chrome, electroless nickel, DLC or Melonite as on the M&P series in the S&W lineup and commonly used on semi-autos these days. DLC/PVD finishes aka IonBond (Diamond Like Carbon or Coating) have a high Rockwell (hardness) number and are very durable. If you look at many of the 25 year old S&W semi-autos you will note that the same finish on the 642s has been used for a long time.
Again no ammonia and no Kleen Bore patches on the 442 finish. No ammonia on the 642 frame.
At one time S&W recommended Hoppes Elite on the frames. It seems that they dropped the name with the introduction of their own labled products (probably Hoppes Elite).
Finish on the 642 frame is anodized aluminum alloy with a clearcote. The cylinder and barrel are stainless steel.

For more on finishes check out this website:
www.harrisoncustom.com/Static/Finishes.htm

I posted a link to the maintenance section from the S&W website a few pages back. Or go rummage around, there are manuals, FAQ, and a contact us point. Customer Service is pretty good about getting back.
 
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I have a line on one I could pick up tomorrow but it is the 642 and after DAdams cleared up the differences I'm leaning toward the 442 for the black finish. My bersa 95 has a silver finish and I'm always painting it with a flat black pen to keep the top surface of the slide black for easier sight acquisition.

Am I the only one that thinks black is where it is at when sighting down one's revolver?

Clutch
 
I got one more question, I'm still reading the earlier threads of this three part series but I only read 650 wpm ;)

Has anyone wore a X42 out? I'm not talking shooting loose with ammo outside +P but someone that can handle recoil and likes to put serious round count down range in practice. Basically how many rounds is a X42 rated for?

I've shot the heck out of a Bersa 95 .380 and it keeps going so aluminum framed handguns are capable of going the distance if well designed.

Clutch
 
On the 642 I point and shoot w/o the laser and point and shoot with it. I don't use the sights. My goal, shot placement COM and accuracy to about 10 inch diameter or better. Do this while moving too.
Don't forget the Old Fuff Drill. 5 shots, 5 seconds, 5 yards. Hopefully the threat is stopped at that point, otherwise it is time for the Speedstrip.
 
Clutch-
I think in Northern, MI it will last until Summer comes which means it will last for a long, long, long time and even longer in the UP and you will be able to pass it on to your offspring or lose it in a divorce settlement, oh, and that's a question for S&W Engineers. :neener: We told you this was a fun place and since your S&W carries a lifetime warranty you don't have to worry about shooting it out because your son can send it in for a rebuild but I would guess in excess of 10K rounds.
 
I just ordered a 442 from my ffl guy. I'll be a gun carrying member of the 642 club shortly. :)

Now I just have to wait, I could have picked up a new 642 tonight from him for 375.00 but I wanted the black version.

Clutch
 
Welcome JPFT.

Clutch your 442 will be worth the wait. Just curious, did you find one w/o the ILS (internal locking system)?

fivewheeler good link on the action job. Great Saturday morning viewing. NutnFancy (Project) comes up with some good stuff. He evaluates alot of gear and guns. He is a big 4Sevens LED Flashlight fan.
www.4sevens.com

Almost makes me want a 638..but not quite. If I could find someone locally that really knew what they were doing I would consider it. Don't want to mess with sending it out. I don't think the trigger is that bad and I would rather beef up my grip/finger/hand strength than lighten up on the spring. Maybe later in life I will need to do that though.
 
I ordered my Mika round cut on Friday and eagerly await it's arrival. In the meantime, I'm using a Galco leather IWB a friend gave me after he sold his 642. While I'm not a fan of IWB carry whatsoever, I'll use it until my Mika arrives.

Question to the club members: Does anyone here use a formed and fitted leather holster specific to the x42 for daily carry, and if so, how has your finish endured the interior of the holster? I know holster wear is part of carrying, but I don't want to accelerate it whatsoever.

I'm under the impression the finish is fairly durable, but it does have limitations and I hope not to cause premature or unnecessary wear if I can avoid it.
 
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