642 Club Part Three

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Hey Tony,

I recently purchased the 640 Pro as well, and sorry to hear about your troubles with it. For the record, mine has been 100% since I got it. I do have a few questions though if you don't mind:

1. How did the .357 shoot? Mine shoots low if I use any .357 less than 158 gr weight. Otherwise it's very accurate.
2. Regarding Altamonts...how is the width compared to the stock 3-fingered rubber grips? Wider? Slimmer? The same? I haven't tried out any other grips on my 640, but the narrow stock grips seem to distribute the recoil in a fairly concentrated, narrow on my hand leaving it a little sore after a range trip. Perhaps I'm just used to by big fat Hogue grips on my big fat Beretta 92...

Thanks!
 
Welcome to the high road, Friar Whently. The stock rubber grips are superior for recoil reduction. The altamont boot grips are just about as hard as metal and leave the backstrap open to boot. There dual purpose is a)aesthetics and b)ease of concealment and draw. I would say they are slightly thinner than the stock banana grips, but wider than crimson trace 405's, and likewise wider than the current factory boot grips on other j frames. I can get a good purchase on them if I tuck the pinky under the boot.

In my limited experience shooting the 640 pro, the Speer gold dot 135 grain .38 + P had lowest recoil and best accuracy and the Corbon DPX 110 grain .38 + P was also easy on the hands and quite accurate. Both loads pack a punch in my model 442. The Buffalo Bore 158 grain LSWCHP .38 + P and the Corbon DPX 125 grain .357 magnum had about the same recoil. I found both to be accurate provided I did my job and pulled the trigger back in one smooth but firm stroke. I could get both to point of aim on a 5/5/5/5 drill (five rounds in five seconds at five yards in a five inch radius). I've found in my own shooting with the 442 that flinching, an expectation of recoil, or a low grip can cause it to shoot low. If I get a good purchase high on the backstrap and focus to eliminate expectation of recoil and flinching accuracy is greatly improved. I recall that I was pleased with the accuracy of the .357 DPX and it was not more unpleasant to shoot than the 158 grain buffalo bore load + P. Verdict is out to which of those two I will carry and dependent on more testing. At the end of the range session I had a blister sized chunk of skin ripped off the inner surface of my thumb but no bleeding. If you have arthritis or carpal tunnel or are recoil sensitive, stick with the +P loadings. That said I find it can be accurate with .357 albeit the DPX load is a moderately loaded round compared to other factory offerings.

Corbon indicated to me that testing of the 125 grain DPX round out of a 2" barrel got them 1085 ft/s velocity with a penetration of 14" and ending diameter of .70" in 10% ballistic gelatin. That is excellent performance even at the snub level (testing out of a 4" barrel puts that round to about 1300 ft/s.

I'll let y'all know which one I intend to carry although in either case I expect the DPX to remain in the speedloaders/moonclips to avoid lead in the pockets. All said and done I might just carry the DPX + P in speedloaders to serve as potential reloads for the 640 and the 442. The 442 is currently loaded with 135 grain + P gold dots with the DPX as backups and as I indicated earlier i'll decide to go with the BB + P or DPX .357 based on further testing. I did decide to let S&W take it back on their dime just for peace of mind. Its possible the ftf was due to some combination of moonclip and primer placement however its nothing a good factory checkup, perhaps a beefier firing pin, and further testing can't iron out. Now all this thread needs is more pics of J frames and I'll leave that up to you ;) In the meantime i'll be woods carrying the Gp100 which can outperform the 640 any day but compromises in weight, comfort, and concealability.
 
In a 640 I'd carry the .38 SWCHP+P Buffalo Bore like I do now in my 442. It ejects easier than a .357 load and is very manageable in a steel J-frame. Not to mention much less flash and noise.

-Jake
 
Mine wears Hogue monogrips, a full grip.

But then, I don't pocket carry.

attachment.php
 
If you are like me you'll quickly find yourself shopping for an aftermarket grip.

Pachmayr Compact for me.
Click to expand...

You know, I like the benefits, are those larger than the stock grips by a large margin?

Do they provide for a better trigger pull due to size? (Does that make sense? :uhoh:)

-Jake
 
YJake said:
You know, I like the benefits, are those larger than the stock grips by a large margin?

Do they provide for a better trigger pull due to size? (Does that make sense? :uhoh:)

-Jake
Click to expand...

Larger than stock? Definitely.

By a large margin? Open for debate or interpretation.

I didn't notice anything with trigger pull or trigger reach. I just noticed that it wasn't downright painful to fire the +P Buffalo Bore 158gr load. I still pocket carry it with that grip, but with my pants that have smaller pockets the bottom/end of the grip can peak a little bit from time to time.
 
I can pocket carry just fine with the Hogue Monogrip. I use a Mika holster in work pants or tactical pants. Even in regular pockets I don't think it makes a huge difference - it's about a fingerwidth more black rubber, but it's actually less noticeable because the backstrap metal isn't showing.

Where it does make a huge difference is in getting a more solid grip when drawing and in shooting. The trigger pull is much better, especially if you have long fingers. Recoil control is 300% improved and post-shooting soreness is significantly reduced.

YMMV of course.
 
I'm a small guy, Lee. Well, tall but thin.

So, if I try to pocket carry even with small grips,
it looks like I'm carrying a double cheeseburger and fries in my pocket. :eek:

Plus, I need my pockets for other stuff.

So, I just go for the OWB.
 
I'm thin too, Nematocyst. But I can see tall thin pants being a problem. I think big pockets and somewhat loose-fitting clothes are the key.

Another thing: if you keep stuff in your opposite side pocket (cellphone, keys, etc.) it balances things out. Both my pockets look like they have a meal in them.

I used to go OWB myself, but it just got too awkward after a while. Now I only OC that way, when clothes are a non-issue.
 
Cleaning 642

New to board. Getting a 642 on 6/15. 1) Can you use Ballistrol, CLP or Gunzilla with out destroying the finish. 2) Is it the consensus that it is best not to use + P in J frames. Thank you for any responses and sorry if it has been covered before.
 
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1) I use CLP on mine, no finish problems. I'm not sure if it will bother the lacquer on the aluminum parts long-term, but according to other posters here that lacquer will wear off one day anyway.

2) If a j-frame is rated for +P (and 642s are) then it's a matter of personal preference. To me the recoil difference is hardly noticeable. Be sure to research this thread for the best kinds of +P though - some like the Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel 135gr are optimized for shorter barrels.
 
Thanks

Kept reading not to use + P in J frames but many of the posts show that is your carry rounds. Thanks for your response.
 
The gun is rated for +P ammunition, so therefore it is safe to use it. Check the barrel on your gun to verify, older models were not marked so.

-Jake
 
Older Airweight J frames are not rated for +p, newer ones are. The all-steel ones should all be fine with it. Some people don't mind shooting +p in an Airweight, some do. You'll have to try it out for yourself, to see what you think.

I like standard pressure 125 gr HP best in my 642 because I hit with them best, shot to shot recovery is best for me, but I have carried and shot +p 125 and 158 gr, when that was what I could get.
 
thanks again

Many non J frame people have opinions that differ from the real world experience of the people on this board so thanks for clearing that up.
 
Non j-frame people? Man you can't listen to them if you want to hang out here. ;)

All joking aside a snubby, +P or not, has its disadvantages and if you're used to shooting a typical defensive autopistol the snubby can be a challenge.

The snubby also has its advantages though. You can work on trigger control and the other fundamentals while the other guys are doing malfunction drills. :)
 
I shot half a box of 148gr LWC (ZERO reloads - $7.48/50 on sale locally last fall) and a few Montana Gold 125gr JHP over 4.2gr Titegroup homebrews from my 642 this AM. Very similar bounce - easy shooters - had to wait for the smoke to clear to see , otherwise the 148gr full wadcutters are perfect 642 fodder for the recoil-shy. I'll keep it stoked with Remington R38S12 +P 158gr LHPSWCs - a bit more bounce, but potent. I EDC 24/7 my 642 with OEM boots in a pocket Mika holster - always reassuring to ping those five SPC plates rapidly with it - and those +P's! I am ready for attacks by marauding SPC targets now...

Someone doesn't like J-frames? Say it isn't so! I've had each of these guys out to the range in the last two trips - today and last Thursday - they are fun! For proper perspective, I am volumetrically and gravitationally challenged - and started my S&W revolver life with 4" N-frames. These little guys are just fun! Maybe it's the grips??

004-2.jpg

The 3" 63 (.22LR) pegs the fun-o-meter. The 4" 651 (.22 WMR) is neat... but loud and flashy. The 3" 60 Pro pretty well tames the Remington +P's that bounce in the 642. The 2 1/8" 632 Pro (.327 Federal Magnum) is miserable with 100gr JSP .327 Fed Magnums - makes 1400 fps! My old GA Arms 100gr JHP .32 H&RM were loud, flashy, and bouncy; my homebrew .32 S&WLs, 96gr LRNFPs, are great plinkers. A few 60gr JHP .32 ACPs were uneventful; the last of my .32 S&W antiques left me wondering if they went off. One little J-frame and five different calibers. Yeah, J-frames are neat. Fun day, despite the heat. Always good to find out that my carry gun(s) functions perfectly, IL and all!

Stainz
 
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