If you could have only one .38 / 357...

[Elm Creek Smith]

Model 13-3 for fighting.


Model 10-5 for general use.


Model 37 for backup or serious concealed carry.


If fighting was the main criteria, the Model 13-3 would get the nod. For everything else, I'd have to go with the Model 10-5.

ECS

 

[gotboostvr]

S&W K frame, target sights, barrel length to suit.

The K frames might be my favorite pistols to shoot, my 4" 19-3 is a great range/target/plinking gun, and my 2" 64-5 is a fantastic carry piece.

 

[PabloJ]

I am certain that you do not have a Korth. I do. I also have a Python since 30 years in the back of my safe, a good dozen of S&W revolvers and some Rugers.

The Korth has a trigger pull that just cannot be duplicated by a stock gun, unless they put the trigger on roller bearings.

Quality and quantity are not the question here but which one would be the only revolver. Make mine a Korth, next in line an MR73.

Please forgive him. He does not like one at time bench made revolver. You know ole' Colt or S&W where employees just grabbed cylinder out of parts bin is just as good.

PS. You should take a hard look at .357 TARGET revolver from sadly caput Emra Werke. For some stupid reason I have passed on boxed one in pristine condition offered to me at LGS for $600. Last MSRP was about $1300 if I remember correctly. The test target shot with Geco .38s was six-hole cloverleaf most Colts & Smith-Wessons don't shoot like that.

 

[Stainz]

So, a Korth is better than an R73? I'd hope so... this NEF R73 looks like it was made in a tech school shop class... and it's a .32 H&RM!



Okay, levity aside, if someone wants to tell me that a miniature roller bearing race will help a trigger or hammer, with their 30-40 degree maximum rotation, is used in a Korth, I'll have to consider it as truth as I have never even seen a parts diagram of one. Still, one has to wonder - even after mini-ball races have found their way into certain pocket knives, like my Kershaw 4001SW Tilt or ZT-0561 Hinderer. At least they rotate ~180 degrees. Still, the finest folders, like those of Chris Reeves, still use bushings and thrust washers - and lube.

Anyone who has had a late model S&W lockwork apart has seen the reason they aren't as light and smooth as a Korth - the fine finish and fit of the internals is missing. In it's place - strong springs! They ensure that the hammer will hit the fp hard enough that any primer will pop - and the return spring will get that trigger back for another pull regardless of the cleanliness of the lockwork. The major source of drag on a trigger, after the hammer/hammer spring and trigger return block, is the drag between the trigger sides and the frame sides. Cleaning them - and lube - and then the trigger return and hammer, will make the use of a lighter spring or two possible. Of course, time & TLC means money - and a decent gunsmith can make a modern S&W as good as - or better than - a well worn old S&W. So, fine a good 'smith - and it wasn't that far back folks universally praised S&W's PC Shop for such work. At least they have parts, if they are needed.

Rather than getting a Korth or Manurhin, consider your favorite S&W - then have a decent 'smith clean it up.

Stainz

 

[Frank V]

I'd choose a mod 65 or 13, for me a .357 is a defensive ctg & those guns are very easy to pack & accurate, being K frames they are easy to shoot also. The fixed sights also fall into the rugged catigory. They can be had in round butt, & with 3" bbls, both adding to the easy to carry theme.

When I'm hunting or in the mountains poking around, I take a caliber starting with a .4.
Frank

 

[SabbathWolf]

Had to update this.
Got my 357/9mm Convertible today.
Boy she's a shooter!

 

[Checkman]

Okay we're talking a Holy Grail here.

but I am going to go with three possible choices because I like variety.

Colt Python 2.5" or 4" barrel
Smith & Wesson Model 27 3.5" or 5" barrel
Korth revolver 3" or 4" barrel

 

[wheelgunslinger]

grail?
Probably a handbuilt wildcat calibered SAA pattern gun from one of the top tier makers.
Nothing mass produced is in my grail category.

 

[SabbathWolf]

I don't want an expensive grail gun at all to be honest.
I want something that I can shoot all day and it'll take a beating too.
If I spent a $bazillion dollars on a grail gun, it would just be safe queen probably.

 

[Jim PHL]

I have two S+W Model 65's with 3" barrels; a standard model and a Ladysmith. I think these guns are close to perfection in a revolver. I'd love to find a non-ported 3" 681. I think the extra beef in the frame and the ability to handle a steadier diet of heavy loads (full-power .357's) would be even perfecter!

 

[mikechandler]

I don't want an expensive grail gun at all to be honest.
I want something that I can shoot all day and it'll take a beating too.
If I spent a $bazillion dollars on a grail gun, it would just be safe queen probably.

The best still affordable 357 is probably the 686-4, either 4" or 5". It's the best of breed of the later model S&W 357s. I could mention the 586-3, which is also well built, but it's blued, so it needs even a bit more care. The only things better would cost a lot more, and it's at the level of good that you would spend a whole lot more money with diminishing returns on investment to bump up. But you wouldn't want to beat any S&W, they're too nice for that, and they wouldn't like it.

So...

The GP100 is your gun.

Shoot it all day, use it as a hammer or to jack up your truck when you lose your tire iron, throw it in your tool box, do what you want. You won't hurt it or break it, especially firing it. It's overbuilt in every way imaginable.

Lucky you, all you need now is about $300, which should find you a nice example on the used market.

 

[mikechandler]

Which would it be? Looking for a grail gun, in the .38 special / .357 magnum catagory.

Is everyones gun, the Python?

Dear Lord, if I am ever stuck with one gun, and it's a 357, please let it be a rifle.

But assuming you meant a revolver... and it's a grail gun... probably a Freedom Arms '97.

 

[SabbathWolf]

The best still affordable 357 is probably the 686-4, either 4" or 5". It's the best of breed of the later model S&W 357s. I could mention the 586-3, which is also well built, but it's blued, so it needs even a bit more care. The only things better would cost a lot more, and it's at the level of good that you would spend a whole lot more money with diminishing returns on investment to bump up. But you wouldn't want to beat any S&W, they're too nice for that, and they wouldn't like it.

So...

The GP100 is your gun.

Shoot it all day, use it as a hammer or to jack up your truck when you lose your tire iron, throw it in your tool box, do what you want. You won't hurt it or break it, especially firing it. It's overbuilt in every way imaginable.

Lucky you, all you need now is about $300, which should find you a nice example on the used market.

I don't need a 357.
I already have one.
I had a 4" GP-100 for years though.
Nice guns.
I still stuck with Ruger this time around too.
I like 'em.

 

[bragmardo]

Okay, levity aside, if someone wants to tell me that a miniature roller bearing race will help a trigger or hammer, with their 30-40 degree maximum rotation, is used in a Korth, I'll have to consider it as truth as I have never even seen a parts diagram of one. Still, one has to wonder - even after mini-ball races have found their way into certain pocket knives, like my Kershaw 4001SW Tilt or ZT-0561 Hinderer. At least they rotate ~180 degrees. Still, the finest folders, like those of Chris Reeves, still use bushings and thrust washers - and lube.

Anyone who has had a late model S&W lockwork apart has seen the reason they aren't as light and smooth as a Korth - the fine finish and fit of the internals is missing. In it's place - strong springs! They ensure that the hammer will hit the fp hard enough that any primer will pop - and the return spring will get that trigger back for another pull regardless of the cleanliness of the lockwork. The major source of drag on a trigger, after the hammer/hammer spring and trigger return block, is the drag between the trigger sides and the frame sides. Cleaning them - and lube - and then the trigger return and hammer, will make the use of a lighter spring or two possible. Of course, time & TLC means money - and a decent gunsmith can make a modern S&W as good as - or better than - a well worn old S&W. So, fine a good 'smith - and it wasn't that far back folks universally praised S&W's PC Shop for such work. At least they have parts, if they are needed.

Please consider suspending conclusions unsupported by experience. As shown in this Italian article, Korth revolvers use rollers, rather than roller bearing races. Likewise the Manurhin MR73, as witness this French account. No amount of gunsmithing can replicate the effect of these design features.

 

[Checkman]

Interesting articles. Sadly I neither speak or read French or Italian. But I like the pictures.

 

[Hondo 60]

If I could have only one 38/357, it would have to be a S&W 581.

 

[Stainz]

Please consider suspending conclusions unsupported by experience. As shown in this Italian article, Korth revolvers use rollers, rather than roller bearing races. Likewise the Manurhin MR73, as witness this French account. No amount of gunsmithing can replicate the effect of these design features.

Firstly, I have an analytical mind - with the proper data, I can draw my own conclusions, with or without personal experience (Example: The effectiveness of bullet design.). Secondly, I am not multilingual - references in languages other than English, the language of this forum, are of little use, save pictures and diagrams - which I appreciated. My mind's eye gave me a better appreciation of either example's lockwork than the reality of the references. The 'roller engagement' has been used by many - particularly in semi-auto's (CZ, for example.). My chagrin when I noted the fine machining in the Korth strengthened my 'opinion' that some 'TLC', ie, time & money during manufacture, could make the production of S&W revolvers more closely replicate the action of a Korth, etc. Of course, then we mere mortals couldn't afford a S&W, either! I'll stick by my 'guns', so to speak, on this one as I have had the range from box-stock to custom gunsmithing S&W revolvers - they can be made quite smooth in operation. For my 'one and only', please make mine a S&W. And... go back to page 3 #74 - that was - and remains - my choice.

Stainz

 

[I6turbo]

For actual shooting, not concealed carrying, the .357 revolvers that suit me best among the one's I've shot are the two that I currently have. Both have amazing, awesome good triggers that make shooting a joy, and just fit my hand and shooting style. I'd give the 686 the slight edge in feel in-hand, but not sure which is the most accurate. Both are great in that regard, IME. That said re: accuracy, neither is quite as accurate as the Thompson with the 10" .357 barrel. That thing shoots like a decent rifle!

 

[VN Vet]

I already have a Colt Python and a Colt King Cobra. What else does a man need?

Vv

 

[roaddog28]

Among my ten revolvers, if I only could have one it would be the first double action 357 magnum I ever bought. This would be my Ruger Police Service Six 4 inch. Simple, strong and reliable. That is all any person needs.
Regards,
Howard

 

[chieftain]

I carried a Victory model S&W in Vietnam after I dumped my unreliable 1911. I was an attached unit, and it was hard to get parts to keep the 45 running. I had always preferred revolvers in those days. I used the revolver a couple of times in combat, it worked. I guess it was magic.

I like the 3 inch barrel length for most of my fighting revolvers. I would most likely use my S&W model 13 3" heavy barrel and rounded grip. The last revolver issued by the FBI. I have a similar 3" version in a model 66, 64, Security Six etc....

Good luck.

Fred

 

[shiftyer1]

For me right now it's a ruger blackhawk or security six or marlin rifle.

Because they'll last me a lifetime.....the colt probably would to but they just way to pretty to use alot Which leads you to the battle in your head because thats alot of money just sitting there not getting shot.

Doesn't stop me from lusting after the pretty ones one bit though!

 

[cyclopsshooter]

I used the revolver a couple of times in combat, it worked. I guess it was magic.

Gunny, when I read your words I swear I hear my Uncle's voice.

And just to reiterate, because some of you don't get it (3" Model 65 Round Butt) Velocities closer to 4" than 2" but still concealable. Sometimes you just dont want people seeing your iron. And remember, by OP rules, it's your only .38/357

 

[Fishslayer]

Is everyones gun, the Python?

Ummmm.... no.

 

[bragmardo]

My mind's eye gave me a better appreciation of either example's lockwork than the reality of the references. The 'roller engagement' has been used by many - particularly in semi-auto's (CZ, for example.). My chagrin when I noted the fine machining in the Korth strengthened my 'opinion' that some 'TLC', ie, time & money during manufacture, could make the production of S&W revolvers more closely replicate the action of a Korth, etc.

Notwithstanding the acuity of your mind's eye, the use of rollers in the trigger actions of Korth and Manurhin MR73 revolvers has nothing to do with any roller-locked autopistol actions. As for spending more time and money during manufacture, the limiting factor is the quality of materials, which is much higher in French and German revolvers. The Manurhin factory museum exhibits an MR73 used by GIGN, with a round count of 96,000 full power .357 Magnums. Let me know when you get a S&W K-frame to withstand this kind of duty.