The 336 Club

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336 Variations?

Could one of you more knowledgeable folks post a response that explains the various variations of the 336? By this I mean I've seen a 336C, 336CS, 336M, 336RC, 336SS, etc. I bet there are more variations than I've listed here. If anyone can share this info, I'd be much appreciative. By the way, my recently aquired 336 is a CS variety in 35 Rem. Love this thread.
 
<slowly coming out from under a week from hell, culminating in a 12 hour event yesterday :what: ;
not fully recovered, but looking forward to regaining normalcy...>

Could one of you more knowledgeable folks post a response
that explains the various variations of the 336?
I don't count myself among the "more knowledgeable folks", at least about this rifle. But I do count myself among the curious.

I suspect that these different models are relatively minor variations on the 336 theme, and that most of them are mere marketing ploys to get folks to purchase said minor variations. Some (like the Zane Grey) are probably commemorative collectors editions produced in limited quantities. (Notable exceptions probably include 336SS and 336XLR.)

But I've googled several keywords (like "Marlin 336 variations"), model numbers, etc, and find very little information about them.

The most interesting (even if not necessarily informative) page I found so far is this one, which simply lists a number of different models (variations on 336) in table form without any discussion about their difference.

Here is the data, modified slightly to omit a few words (like "model").

Aside from A, C, W, SS, and M, I have little idea how some differ from others. But it is interesting to see how many there are. (The table doesn't even list the new 336XLR.)

Maybe someone in here can help us understand the differences.

Note that in the original table, 336SS is equated with 336M. I doubt that, so I split them out.
___________

336A
336ADL
336AS
336CC
336W
336M
336RC CARBINE
336C CARBINE
336SC SPORTING CARBINE
336SC .219 ZIPPER
336SD CARBINE (SPORTING DELUXE)
336C (336CS) CARBINE LEVER ACTION
336SS
336LTS CARBINE
336 COWBOY
336ER (EXTRA RANGE)
336T CARBINE "TEXAN"
336DT CARBINE (DELUXE TEXAN)
336TS TEXAN
336 OCTAGON RIFLE
336 MARAUDER CARBINE
336 MAGNUM CARBINE
336T
336 ZANE GREY CENTURY CARBINE
336 PRESENTATION RIFLE
 
And one more...

From a thread on the Marlin Owners Forum; this post made by a user named Tomray, who is ostensibly a Marlin representative (surmised from reading other threads over there in the past).

The 336 RC (regular carbines) have been made since the early '50's. Since then, the designations have changed a bit over the years to 336C, (and 336CS when the safety was added) but they are still the same gun.
You will also find some 336SC's that denote "Sporting Carbine",..........again, same gun, but with a 2/3's mag tube, to give a more "rifle like" appearance.
Then there are the 336A's with 24" barrels, smae gun w/longer barrel,so the choices are many. Add to all these, the Glenfields 336's and GT30's and you have even more.
The pressed checkering was done primarily on the hardwood stocks and on the 336W's which were originally produced for Walmart.
In among all these listed above, you will find variations that are slightly contrary to what I've listed above.
 
And just to be complete about those model variations ...

... I'm assuming all have read post #18 of this thread.

The 336 Club:
Replies: 306
Views: 8,639

This thread is long from dead.

;)

OK, off to bed for the first real sleep in days ...
 
I would like to join the club too. I just bought a new 336A 30-30 from my local gun shop. I had my eye on a couple different used ones. One of them sold and the remaining one (a 1981 model) looked like it needed a little work. They were asking $229 for it. I decided on the new one. They also had a 1949model that they were asking $300 for. it had an old sling and some type of ghost ring sight. It looked like it was in pretty good condition. I didn't buy it but I keep thinking that I should have.
 
I only know a little about the RC or "regular carbine" which mine is circa 1968. Marlin re-named the rifle the RC regular carbine in (going from memory) the time it went from regular rifling to Micro groove. Prior to that it was named the Marlin 336...no letter designation. In about 1970 or so it became the 336C, then or abouts the other designations for marketing came about. Ill look for the real poop on this and re-post....Cool! Something fun to look up! I love the 336! My pics are a few pics back under my new marlin on this thread....
 
Dbernie, welcome to 336. :)

And welcome to THR! Greatest gun forum on the web. Let us know how we can help you. (Note also, when you're into it, there's a thread over in general gun discussions for new folks to introduce themselves. No hurry. You don't even have to. It's just a good place to see some of who are here...)

(Interesting that THR also has an rbernie, though I don't think he's subscribed to this thread.)

Congrats on the 336A. That's what I've got as well. (Decided on that one over the W and even the C after a LOT of reading and study. Couldn't be happier.)

I'm pretty sure there are at least a couple in here that are going to advise you to run on back down to the store asap and pick up at least one of those used ones that you passed up. :rolleyes:
_______

Sniper, thanks for the info on RC & C. Makes good sense.

I hope we can collect a bunch of info just like that on these various model versions, then collect them into a single essay (I'll be happy to take on that chore if others will help me edit it; that'll be a months long process...)
_________

Dang, it's good to be back.

I see there's not even any mud tracked into the clubhouse, and there are still some drinks in the frig.

Unfortunately, there's still .30-30 rnds in the cabinet. That means you guys aren't shooting enough ... :p

Nem (at work, but far less busy than last week ... )
 
ill be buying one soon. what is the accuracy at 50yds on iron sights? Is it good enough to hit paper? how about with a factory scope, is it good at 100yds? does it pretty much max out at 100yds?
 
Okay, so I wasn't paying attention

And you guys got this thread over 300 posts before I noticed it.

I clearly don't hang out in Rifle Country enough.

Mine: Marlin 336C (Blue, Walnut, Checkered) in .30-30. Factory sights. Only 40 rounds so far. When I do my part, it hits with spectacular effect on water-filled jugs.

Picture to follow when I get my camera and my brain in the same room.

And, Nem, how is it you managed to have a huge thread on the Marlin 336 without any posts from George Hill?

I mean, seriously, father of the "Cowboy Assault Rifle," shown here. Real piece of work.

Anyway, like I say, camera . . . brain . . . Marlin . . . all in the same room, I'll post pix.
 
ill be buying one soon. what is the accuracy at 50yds on iron sights? Is it good enough to hit paper? how about with a factory scope, is it good at 100yds? does it pretty much max out at 100yds?
Accuracy is great at 50 or 100 with iron sights
 
OK, I was just getting ready to shut down & go to bed after a long day of packing (going to move to TX in a couple weeks) when I ran across this thread - about an hour ago. :)

Nem - it looks as if you and I were going down the same path at about the same time. I picked up my 336W (NIB $300) late last year, and just finished installing the XS GR sights last Sunday!

I say "finished" installing the sights because it's been a long journey getting them installed. XS has sent out 3 different front ramps, 2 sets of plastic front test posts & we've finally gotten the correct front post installed in the correct 1 hole front ramp. Their tech support & customer service has been great! They even caught their gunsmith heading out the door & called him back to return my call from the range. The original front ramp with the built-in front post was too short, and the second ramp with a dovetail slot was one of the 2 hole ramps - of course my barrel's only got the one hole.

I've got a couple hundred rounds through it now, and am finally getting within 3" at 100 yards, using the large aperature - which is screwed most of the way down.

In between sight shipments I've been working on other parts of the rifle. Here're a couple links that'll help smooth out the action:


http://www.levergun.com/articles/Race_Tuning.htm

http://www.marlinowners.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=488

http://marauder.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm

I've also replaced the hammer spring (Wolf # 32501) and finger lever plunger spring (Wolf, no stock # right now). After performing most of the mod's in the article at the Marauder web site & replacing those two springs - she's sweet!

Bought a cheap set of gunsmith screwdrivers - not a good idea. I've broken 4 of the bits already. Then I went the other direction and bought Brownell's starter screwdriver kit - about $100 for 10 screwdrivers. Only one driver fit any of the screws. Called Brownell's and talked with one of their gun techs, he said I could: grind down some of the drivers to fit the screws, return some or all of the drivers, or buy their replaceable tip driver kit sized specifically for the 336 for ~$20. Figured it would cost somewhere around $10 plus my time just to send some of the drivers back, so I bought the 336 kit. I like it. And the bits come with a life-time warranty; break a bit, send it back, they'll send you a new one.

Took son & grandson to the range Sunday morning, an old quarry up the road about 20 minutes. Grandson (7yrs old) shot his BB gun while son & I shared the 336 and S&W 642. Grandson wanted to shoot a "real" gun, so he was introduced to the 642. His dad was shooting it with +P rounds, didn't seem to faze grandson at all. And that little gun hit the targets at 100 yards! Anyways, that's when I was (finally) able to finish the sight adjustments and start hitting the 3" black with Remington 150gr.

Next up is to test some of the Prvi Partizan ammo that came in today. At $7.25/20rnds, I couldn't pass it up, bought 500 rnds. I posted a question here at THR about the Prvi Partizan ammo, it got good marks.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/30-30_Winchester.html

Not sure I like the stock camo sling, it doesn't bend around my arm as well as I'd like when trying to use it for offhand shooting. Might have to start looking for a different one in mid-May, early June. Any suggestions?

Edited to add:

BTW, I did have to re-blue the lever after filing & sanding on it. No big deal, a few coats of cold blue & I'm the only one that can tell.

I used the loc-tite included in the XS sight kit on all the sight screws and even spread a thin coat under the rear sight mount & front ramp. It holds, but not too tight. The screws backed out just fine. It does take a bit of fine work to clean the loc-tite out of the screw threads before reusing them.

The mounting screw for the dove-tailed front ramp required shortening, the included screw(s) are almost twice the length necessary. It only took a little grinding and a bit of file work (along with numerous checks for length) was all it took.
 
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Sorry to be slow responding. Some technical glitch - in addition to a busy week - is making my participation in this (and other THR threads) difficult right now. I actually got "locked out of THR last night". (Technical glitch, NOT the fault of our great admins or mods, who are helping me research the "why" part. We're not sure why yet - perhaps not even rooted in the THR system; may be related to my ISP - but I'm confident that we'll solve the mystery; in the mean time, please forgive my spotty participation.)

OK, onward ...

And, Nem, how is it you managed to have a huge thread on the Marlin 336
without any posts from George Hill?
You know, Arfin, that's a good question. We should extend George a personal invitation. I know he has much to contribute here.

Hey, maybe he's lurking, just checking things out. :scrutiny: :cool:

Cliff, welcome to 336. Thanks for all the great info. The "tuning" pages are very welcome! Will read with great interest once this busy week is over.

Please keep us posted on your tests of the Prvi Partizan ammo.

Not sure I like the stock camo sling, it doesn't bend around my arm as well as I'd like when trying to use it for offhand shooting. Might have to start looking for a different one in mid-May, early June. Any suggestions?
I felt the same about the stock sling on the W. I went with the A instead of a W only because I liked the fore end cap more than the barrel band on the W (I've explained that elsewhere in this thread), but I agree: the sling on the W felt, um ... less than adequate.

I recommend a Quake Claw. There are several variations, but I've got the basic Claw on all three of my long guns (870P, 336, 39A). Very comfortable, nonslip, well-made, $20. (I've got all of mine "upside down", i.e., for "African carry", which is the way I prefer to carry long guns. I find that bringing it up for firing is MUCH faster than with traditional American carry.)
 
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I have had Dad's old 336sc and my 39a for years. A while back my ex brother in law rekindled an interest in Marlins so first it was an 184cb in 44 mag. then a couple of 1895 Guide guns for us( mine had a fantastic marble cake grained stock) then and 1895 CB then the best of all a 336 cb in 38-55 and to finish up a standard 1895 in 45-70. Even though all I do anymore is punch holes in targets, I get a kick(no pun intended) out of those big bores and long barrels.
Jeff
 
ill be buying one soon. what is the accuracy at 50yds on iron sights? Is it good enough to hit paper? how about with a factory scope, is it good at 100yds? does it pretty much max out at 100yds?


With mine which is bone stock, I can easily hit clay's at 50 yards, and at 100 off hand.


Did anyone else catch American Rifleman last night? They went thru the Marlin factory watching the build and test process of the 336.
 
A list

Sorry if I posted this allready, but good info...

A = rifle
A DL = deluxe rifle with checkered stocks and sling swivels

C and RC = regular carbine

SC = sporting carbine a 2/3 magazine with rifle style forearm cap

SD = deluxe sporting carbine

S = later guns, after 1984 with the cross bolt safety

T = Texan

TDL = deluxe Texan

336 Octagon (1973 only)

Zane Grey Century (1971)

TS = Texan with cross bolt safety

ER= Extra Range (.356 Winchester caliber)

LTS = Lightweight with cross bolt safety

375 = guns in .375 caliber

.444 = guns in .444 Marlin caliber

W = the new carbine in current catalogs
Y = Youth model in current catalogs
SS = stainless steel
CC = camouflage in current catalogs
A = rifle style forearm in current catalogs

Marauder 16 1/4 inch barrel gun (watch for fakes as these are rare)

44 Magnum Carbine

D

M = Nickel plated with checkered stock w/swivels (2000 catalog)
 
Sniper, that's a very useful list. Thanks.

Did you create it, or is available somewhere on the web (besides this page)?

One question for someone about the following designations that I've extracted from Sniper's list.

A = rifle

C and RC = regular carbine

W = the new carbine in current catalogs

A = rifle style forearm in current catalogs
I don't pretend even now, after a fair amount of reading on the topic, to clearly articulate the distinction between "rifle" and "carbine". Yet, this list seems to be making an implicit distinction there, calling 336A "rifle" (or at least "rifle style forearm") and C, RC and W "carbine".

I bought a 336A specifically because I preferred its fore end cap rather than barrel bands (as on the C & W). But I wasn't aware that difference was possibly important in the distinction between "rifle" and "carbine".

So, is that part of the distinction?

Can anyone enlighten me on this?

Nem
 
Please keep us posted on your tests of the Prvi Partizan ammo.

Will do. It's probably going to be a few months before I can use it though - we're in the middle of moving right now & still have to find another house when we get there. That's not going to leave much time for shooting :mad: When I do get a chance, it's not going to be much of a test, the only results I'll be able to get will be how clean it is and how accurate it is in my paticular rifle - as we all know, different firearms like different rounds. If I can round up some phone books and/or make some ballistic gell I'll try to get some penetration info too. I could & would get more detailed info with the test if someone were to donate a chrono :)

In the meantime, I'll be checking out the Claw slings. Took a quick look at their web site the other day, the slings look good & their prices aren't bad at all.

I've practiced a bit with the African carry; it is pretty fast, the stock's more protected in that position, and there's no need to put a condom over the muzzle to keep the rain out.

On the tuning pages there's a suggestion to put a small rubber washer between the barrel and magazine. I'm having a hard time locating one - my brother's suggested looking in a motorcycle shop for one out of a carb.

Sniper X If you do get ahold of a copy, please post here what you'd want for a copy. Sounds like an interesting show.

ill be buying one soon. what is the accuracy at 50yds on iron sights? Is it good enough to hit paper? how about with a factory scope, is it good at 100yds? does it pretty much max out at 100yds?

Ya'll might want to check out this site:

http://www.leverguns.com/articles/taylor/3030longrange.htm

From that site, he's using iron sights - no scope:
On the High Power Range some distance past the last bank of targets stands a steel silhouette of a buffalo. Situated in a clearing in the trees, the silhouette is 6 feet high and 10 feet long. It is a tough target to shoot because is located almost 1130 yards from the firing line!
 
Nem, I was allways under the impression a carbine was under 18in barrel, the rifle over that at 20 or more...maybe wrong! My 1894 is a rifle, and it is a 23in barel.
 
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