The 336 Club

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Hey edrice,
I just happened across it on ebay and lucked into the camo stock. The only other camo stock I possiably ran across was that ramline was going to produce a camo stock in synth. this year but I do not know what models it would fit.
Plus I think they wanted bout $80 for it--bit pricey.

I think before I did that I would buy an old wood stock, maybe in o.k. condition, strip it and refinish it in camo colors with paint and seal it. It might not come out looking as professional but it sure would be a fun project.

I did see some custom gun stocks for 336's from one guy in the midwest sometime. Once again pricey but nice.
I'll keep my eyes open and if I see anything I'll post the info.
e'trode
 
Ze,

Thnx. Good write up on the suggested directions. I accept your caveat about not being a gun smith, and accept responsibility for any mods I make (and so should others).

Directions are clear, especially when looking at the parts diagram, even without looking inside the gun yet. Conceptually, I understand what you're suggesting.

Only one part not quite clear yet: "polishing the top edge of your hammer (#36)". Looking at the diagram, I'm not yet sure which is the "top edge". But I suspect when I actually get in there to look, and see whats rubbing on what, I'll figure it out.

I also suspect a minor typo that will be obvious to any who follow the parts diagram:

"Three" is the lock retainer that keeps the lever up (part #17 and it's spring #19). Again you are probably talking polishing the tip of #7 and maybe lightening spring #19.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking that be "polishing the tip of #17" (finger lever plunger).

{Added by edit: Ze has now corrected that typo in the original post.}

Thanks, Ze. Very helpful. Even if I let a gun smith do it ultimately, it's nice to learn something more about the inside. Quite the little shooting machines, they are. :)

Nem
 
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Nematocyst said:
Only one part not quite clear yet: "polishing the top edge of your hammer (#36)". Looking at the diagram, I'm not yet sure which is the "top edge". But I suspect when I actually get in there to look, and see whats rubbing on what, I'll figure it out.
Click to expand...

Nem, I reckon he's talking about the part of the hammer that's visible outside the gun. If you've been working the action a lot, take a look at the hammer and see where it's worn. If you polish that it should slick up a bit.
 
Nem,
I fixed the typo, I did indeed mean part #17 and not part 7 (darn fingers don't type right <grin>)

As for polishing the "top" of the hammer, when you work the lever the bolt pushes the hammer back to cock it. The length of the bolt then slides across the top of the hammer. It's a friction/wear point and pretty obvious to see as dogwielder described.
 
e'trode said:
Hey edrice,
I just happened across it on ebay and lucked into the camo stock. The only other camo stock I possiably ran across was that ramline was going to produce a camo stock in synth. this year but I do not know what models it would fit.
Plus I think they wanted bout $80 for it--bit pricey.

I think before I did that I would buy an old wood stock, maybe in o.k. condition, strip it and refinish it in camo colors with paint and seal it. It might not come out looking as professional but it sure would be a fun project.

I did see some custom gun stocks for 336's from one guy in the midwest sometime. Once again pricey but nice.
I'll keep my eyes open and if I see anything I'll post the info.
e'trode
Click to expand...
I was thinking about stocks for my 1894P but after I wrote that it occurred to me that would be a real rarity. The 1894P has a 16 1/4 inch barrel and I think the forestock is shorter too. And it would obviously be silly to put a camo stock on a stainless 336. I guess black would look alright with stainless but I much prefer the natural wood stocks to black.

I am part-woodworker with lots of finishing experience, so maybe I could come up with an old stock and rework it and then paint it for the 1894). Something to think about.

On the front sight front, the .450 Williams Firesight front sight for the 336 arrived and I drifted out the old one and filed and drifted in the new one. Kinda neat looking at the glowing red dot. I've always been a little leary of the nekkedness of the sights on lever guns. They always seem so fragile and "out there" to me and I like the winged sights of military weapons and feel more secure with them. I'm careful with the sights anyway but just like the extra security so what I did was reinstall the Marlin hood over the Williams firesight just for transport purposes. I can always slide it off when ready to fire. There's just enough clearance to slide the hood on over the .450 front sight.

Ordered a new recoil pad and also ordered a dented follower from Marlin for the Leverevolution ammo. Does anyone know how essential this is? I did it anyway but didn't know if it was absolutely that necessary.

Ed
 
polishing clarification

Dog' and Ze,

Thanks for for the clarification on the hammer polishing. I get it. Makes good sense, too.

I'll take a look at it this weekend.

Oh, one more question, and maybe even a dumb one, but I'll ask rather than risk doing it wrong:
when you suggest "polishing" those parts, what do you suggest doing the "polishing" with?

Thanks!

Nem
 
...a dented follower from Marlin for the Leverevolution ammo
Click to expand...
Ed and others, that's interesting.

Let's please add more about this "dented follower". I get the basic idea - dented to accept the pointier Hornadies. It'll be fun/useful to hear some opinions about them and add some links to sales sites and/or discussions/reviews about them.

Nem
 
Nem-
I use a dremel (moto tool) with felt polishing wheels and various grades of jewelers rouge. I also have nearly 20 years of experience doing delicate work with a moto-tool so I don't tend to mess up.

#414 Felt Polishing 1/2" Wheels
#422 Felt Polishing Cone
#429 Felt Polishing 1" Wheel
And I usually clean it off with a #423 Cloth Polishing Wheel

The Dremel polishing compound is okay but I found this stuff at a gun show that came in a waxy brick and had several different grit levels. Paid about $1 per block (each about the size of a soap bar) and haven't gone halfway through them in two years of doing this stuff.

The big trick is take your time and use light pressure, you just want to polish not grind.

After polishing parts I've started doing a "treat n' heat" with Militec-1 lubricant. This is an experiment at this point but I've been really pleased with the lubricating results so far.
 
Ed and Nem.

What part of the 336 are you talking about changing to accept the Leverev. ammo? I have shot some of the ammo and have had no problem with it. But if I need to change something to improve than let me know what to do and I can try it.

Ed.---If your gun is short you might look at the stocks or at least the forend of the marlin "spikehorn". It is no longer in production. I bought one last year by mistake and returned it for my 336 A. The spikehorn is a youth model and I almost kept it and modified it for my use but I did not have that much extra money to do that.
The spikehorn also was a short barrell and was pretty cool. You could see where it would be a cool brush gun.
e'trode
 
The big trick is take your time and use light pressure, you just want to polish not grind.
Click to expand...
Ze, that makes good sense. Yes, I understand the importance of that, and will adhere.
Light touch. Works in love, works in gun mods.

E'trode, the follower is the plastic piece (part #49 on parts diagram) that you push rnds against as you push them into the magazine. The way I understand it is, someone has developed a "dented" follower that may serve to keep LE rnds straighter in the magazine by keeping the pointed nose in the center of the follower. Otherwise, I'm guessing (totally guessing) the pointed bullet could make them shift to the side in a way that could cause a jam ... I don't know, really just guessing here. Have no idea really.

It's an intriguing idea, and makes some intuitive sense, but still waiting to read some reviews to see if it is really needed ...

N~
 
Nem said:
E'trode, the follower is the plastic piece (part #49 on parts diagram) that you push rnds against as you push them into the magazine. The way I understand it is, someone has developed a "dented" follower that may serve to keep LE rnds straighter in the magazine by keeping the pointed nose in the center of the follower. Otherwise, I'm guessing (totally guessing) the pointed bullet could make them shift to the side in a way that could cause a jam ... I don't know, really just guessing here. Have no idea really.

It's an intriguing idea, and makes some intuitive sense, but still waiting to read some reviews to see if it is really needed ...
Click to expand...
Nem,

It's Marlin's product.

I saw the follower in a magazine but I must have thrown that one out or I'd scan a picture and post it. I called Marlin and asked the lady that answered that if I'm shooting Leverevolution, should I install that follower. Before I had the question mark on the end of that sentence, she came back with an emphatic "YES."

In retrospect maybe I should've asked her why it was necessary,but at the time I was thinking that she was probably just an order taker and might not really know, so I didn't bother. At 10 bux I figured I just go ahead and do it.

Apparently, that's what Marlin is installing in their XLR rifles.

Ed
 
Ed,

The more I think about it, the more it makes sense.

What I'm wondering now is, how will it affect performance with standard rnds?

My intuition tells me not at all. I can't imagine that a dent to enhance feed for the LE would negatively affect feed of more traditional round and flat nosed rnds, but I always have to ask ...

Nem
 
Nem said:
The more I think about it, the more it makes sense.

What I'm wondering now is, how will it affect performance with standard rnds?

My intuition tells me not at all. I can't imagine that a dent to enhance feed for the LE would negatively affect feed of more traditional round and flat nosed rnds, but I always have to ask ...

Nem
Click to expand...
It should have no effect. I called it a "dent' but it is actually a small hole in the follower, just a little larger that the size of the polymer tip on the Hornady ammo.

Ed
 
Oh, very interesting.

So I'm picturing the area around the hole as flat, so the traditional rnds just "think" it's a regular follower.

Very cool. Mikey likes it. :cool:

I want to try out some LE when I get my sighting issues resolved.
 
Nem said:
Oh, very interesting.

So I'm picturing the area around the hole as flat, so the traditional rnds just "think" it's a regular follower.

Very cool. Mikey likes it.

I want to try out some LE when I get my sighting issues resolved.
Click to expand...
That is correct. Your standard rounds should never know you pulled a fast one on them.

When it arrives, I'll post a picture.

Ed
 
Here it is. Just arrived this afternoon.
The packing slip calls it the "30-30 XLR follower."
10 bux including shipping.

follower.jpg


Ed
 
Ed and Nem.
I think I am going to order the part since it is only 10 bucks and it does make since. I don't see where it would mess with traditional rounds. I am leaning in only using LE rounds anyway.
Thanks for all of the info.
I hope to get signed up at the new range and send some pics soon.
e'trode
 
e'trode said:
That looks kind of cool Ed. I'll have to order me one soon.
Ah the fun of taking apart my rifle again!!! Then getting it all back together again.
e'trode
Click to expand...
Actually, you don't need to disassemble the rifle. It's easier than that.

At the muzzle end there's a little screw under the magazine tube that secures the plug that keeps the magazine spring from popping out. Remove that and the plug and the spring.

At this point, I thought the old follower would just slide right out. No such luck. pointing the rifle at the center of the earth causes the follower to slide until it is stopped by the barrel-band screw. So I removed that and then it stopped where the barrel-band screw used to be.

But inside the follower is a little washer-like device that stops the spring, so I figured I fashion a little hook out of a long, skinny little allen wrench (snipped off most of the "L"), stick it in the hole of the washer (using a flashlight to see in there) and pull the follower out. No such luck. All I succeeded in doing was pulling the washer out of the follower and it bounced off the tile kitchen floor.

But if I looked down the barrel-band screw hole, I could see the orange follower stopped right there. So I used my little hook device (in retrospect, a nail would probably work) to scrape and push and coax the follower towards the the muzzle end. It probably took about twenty strokes in this fashion to finally get it past the barrel-band screw hole, but then it slid right out.

The rest was easier. Insert the new follower, correct end in, slither the spring back in (putting the cat back in the bag) and then push the plug in and hold it there while my third hand tried to screw the plug screw back in.

Finally got it in and all that remained was to reinsert the barrel-band screw, except that I found I had to loosen the plug screw again to get things to line up right. Once the barrel-band screw was tightened, I retightened the plug screw and everything was hunky-dory.

Cycled a few LE through it and it liked it. Didn't try any flat-points but I figured it was moot. I'll shoot up some of those on Saturday morning anyway.

Old follower, washer (which is now back inside the old follower), and my little useless hook -
oldfollower.jpg


Ed
 
Once again, I am reminded that we're participating in a 336 treasure trove here.

Ed, nice description.

I'm wondering: would a "poker" help get that old follower out?

That is, in addition to pulling from muzzle end, could one use a long poker
- like a coat hanger - to push into the magazine from the breech end?

Just thinking out loud here ...

Nem
 
Nem said:
I'm wondering: would a "poker" help get that old follower out?

That is, in addition to pulling from muzzle end, could one use a long poker
- like a coat hanger - to push into the magazine from the breech end?
Click to expand...
Yes, that should certainly work, pushing it out from the breech end. A pusher would probably have to be fairly stiff but still flexible enough to round the bend going through the loading door. A flexible aluminum cleaning rod might do it, especially since aluminum might be less prone to mar the rifle finish.

I might've thought of that, but at the time I was in panick mode because the washer had popped out and my attention was focused at the muzzle end wondering if I could, a) get the follower out, or b) failing that, get the washer back into the follower so I could fire it on Saturday morning. Free time is scarce lately which leaves little time for things to go wrong.

Fortunately, it worked out this time.

Ed
 
I wish it was me that shot that group but it weren't. I figured it might be a useful reference next time someone tells ya your 30-30's only good for 150 yards ...

It would be highly unlikely I'd take a shot on game at that range but it is nice to know that it is in the realm of reality. I"ve rung 12" gongs but haven't tried posting any paper that far out to perferate with my thuddy thuddy.
 
Hey everybody,
Here's a question I am going to get my 336 boresighted soon. I have the leupold scout scope set up on it and I am shooting the LE ammo in it. So we know the range of the ammo is a comfortable kill range of 150 to 200 yards for deer with some range time.

Should I ask the store to boresight my rifle at 150 insted of the standard 100? Or stick with the standard 100 yards and just adjust my aim point in the woods for the longer shots?
e'trode
 
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