JustsayMo: I think you answered your own question, and I agree. Keep that 336 Cowboy the way it is and buy another 336 to carry in the field and tinker with. You can add aftermarket sights and/or optics to a regular 336 and make other modifications and not feel bad about it (as long as it is well done) but I'd hate to modify the Cowboy version. You might also consider a 336XLR, which will give you a 24" barrel optimized for LeverEvolution ammo and have a very accurate rifle right out of the box. Plus it will be a little lighter and handier than the Cowboy version.
The 336 Club
- Thread starter AStone
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dries001
Member
Nem, great posts and thread!! I have gathered a lot of useful information from your research and postings. I look forward to gathering more information from all of you.
I too have been debating between the 336 A and C. I have decided to go with the A and it helps that it is on sale at Dick’s Sporting Goods for $330. I was just wondering if anyone else has found it any cheaper? The price includes rifle (of course), scope, rings and base. I’m sure its just a cheap scope but looking on gunbroker the cheapest used one is still $300. So, I guess I will be joining the club very shortly!
I too have been debating between the 336 A and C. I have decided to go with the A and it helps that it is on sale at Dick’s Sporting Goods for $330. I was just wondering if anyone else has found it any cheaper? The price includes rifle (of course), scope, rings and base. I’m sure its just a cheap scope but looking on gunbroker the cheapest used one is still $300. So, I guess I will be joining the club very shortly!
Nem,
I got the bug bad, man. Went in to my local shop to get his FFL for the 39a I just bought, and came away with a 1989 336cs for $250 to boot. Was used as a hunting rifle, so it does show some signs of wear, but not too bad, overall. Did come with an action job and Pachmayr recoil pad (both done at King's Gunworks), as well as a Lyman peep.
Marlinitis....there is no cure.
I got the bug bad, man. Went in to my local shop to get his FFL for the 39a I just bought, and came away with a 1989 336cs for $250 to boot. Was used as a hunting rifle, so it does show some signs of wear, but not too bad, overall. Did come with an action job and Pachmayr recoil pad (both done at King's Gunworks), as well as a Lyman peep.
Marlinitis....there is no cure.
AStone
Member
Mo, that's a tough choice. I'm facing the same about cutting down my 39 to field length, which for me is 18 or 20. I'll do it even to that classic. Good luck with that decision. Bet you get a few opinions here.
Brandon, welcome. I'll defer to the experts on that sticking problem. Please keep us posted.
Dries, welcome to the club, and to THR. (Best gun forum on the web, IMO.) Very glad you're finding value here. We've got so many knowledgeable folks in the house now ... Of course, I approve of your choice of A. Lots of folks like the C, and there's a lot to like. But if you like the birch stock (I do), the fore end cap option over the barrel band (Marlin seems to), and a lower price, the A is a fine option. I'll bet it shoots as good as a C (which is all that counts, really). And from my looking around, $330 is a fine price (especially without shipping; I paid nearly $360 for mine in town). Please keep us posted.
Smee, I'll have to leave your question to others. Don't know that gun. But it'd be great to post some pics if you can. I'm very intrigued by a 336 in .44 mag. Didn't even know they existed until recently. Are you looking to sell it, or just interested in what they're worth?
Bam, you scored. $250 for that AND an action job AND recoil pad AND Lyman. You are just racking up lately, eh? We need pics!
Brandon, welcome. I'll defer to the experts on that sticking problem. Please keep us posted.
Dries, welcome to the club, and to THR. (Best gun forum on the web, IMO.) Very glad you're finding value here. We've got so many knowledgeable folks in the house now ... Of course, I approve of your choice of A. Lots of folks like the C, and there's a lot to like. But if you like the birch stock (I do), the fore end cap option over the barrel band (Marlin seems to), and a lower price, the A is a fine option. I'll bet it shoots as good as a C (which is all that counts, really). And from my looking around, $330 is a fine price (especially without shipping; I paid nearly $360 for mine in town). Please keep us posted.
Smee, I'll have to leave your question to others. Don't know that gun. But it'd be great to post some pics if you can. I'm very intrigued by a 336 in .44 mag. Didn't even know they existed until recently. Are you looking to sell it, or just interested in what they're worth?
Bam, you scored. $250 for that AND an action job AND recoil pad AND Lyman. You are just racking up lately, eh? We need pics!
Truer words have never been spoken.Marlinitis....there is no cure.
Koos Custodiet
Member
Hi all
I've been a member here (THR) for quite a while [0], but it took me ages to read this thread through from the beginning.
My first rifle was a 336CS. 04xxxxxx serial number which according to one of the posts makes it a '96. Makes sense, since I bought it new. I do think the shop schnaaied me though [1]. I put a Tasco 4x32 scope on a Weaver rail on it, works fine (Yea, I know, open sights are all that's needed. I've heard the argument, you're welcome to borrow my eyes (been wearing glasses, thick ones, since third grade) and report back).
When I got it, run of the mill five shot 100m groups were, oh, six or eight inches. Vertical stringing. I did a number of things, including "parole floating" the barrel (sort of like free floating except it's held in two places). Didn't make much of a difference.
I eventually found that the rifle is a prima donna -- it likes the bullet to be 27 thou (Not 25 thou. Not 30 thou. 27 thou) off the lands. This means it does not shoot Hornady bullets at all. With Sierra 170 grainers I get 2300 fps and just under 2" 5 shot groups at 100m.
I'm still working on a 150gr load (also Sierra), so far my best load is slightly over 2" and around 2175fps.
I found that WLRM primers give repeatably better groups than CCI with the 170 gr load.
Tomorrow I'm off to the range with 25 rounds loaded with four different primers (and one slightly heavier load) to see what difference primers make to the 150gr load.
So ja, another happy Marlin 336 owner online.
Koos
[0] This is my post #69.
[1] Over here, you put your money down, then you apply for a licence from the police. Anything from months to years later you get the licence if you're lucky. You take the licence to the shop, get your gun. Well, I remembered the gun somewhat differently from what I received. And I don't think the barrel band screw should have been bent like that. Also, where's my hammer extension spur and manual? (Marlin put that right when I mailed them).
I've been a member here (THR) for quite a while [0], but it took me ages to read this thread through from the beginning.
My first rifle was a 336CS. 04xxxxxx serial number which according to one of the posts makes it a '96. Makes sense, since I bought it new. I do think the shop schnaaied me though [1]. I put a Tasco 4x32 scope on a Weaver rail on it, works fine (Yea, I know, open sights are all that's needed. I've heard the argument, you're welcome to borrow my eyes (been wearing glasses, thick ones, since third grade) and report back).
When I got it, run of the mill five shot 100m groups were, oh, six or eight inches. Vertical stringing. I did a number of things, including "parole floating" the barrel (sort of like free floating except it's held in two places). Didn't make much of a difference.
I eventually found that the rifle is a prima donna -- it likes the bullet to be 27 thou (Not 25 thou. Not 30 thou. 27 thou) off the lands. This means it does not shoot Hornady bullets at all. With Sierra 170 grainers I get 2300 fps and just under 2" 5 shot groups at 100m.
I'm still working on a 150gr load (also Sierra), so far my best load is slightly over 2" and around 2175fps.
I found that WLRM primers give repeatably better groups than CCI with the 170 gr load.
Tomorrow I'm off to the range with 25 rounds loaded with four different primers (and one slightly heavier load) to see what difference primers make to the 150gr load.
So ja, another happy Marlin 336 owner online.
Koos
[0] This is my post #69.
[1] Over here, you put your money down, then you apply for a licence from the police. Anything from months to years later you get the licence if you're lucky. You take the licence to the shop, get your gun. Well, I remembered the gun somewhat differently from what I received. And I don't think the barrel band screw should have been bent like that. Also, where's my hammer extension spur and manual? (Marlin put that right when I mailed them).
dries001
Member
I bought the 336A yesterday and a bunch of different types of ammo(150,170, and leverelution). I'm hoping to get to shoot her soon! I guess I will see what ammo she prefers and how the groupings are.
pstrsoccer
Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 2
i'm in the club
just bought and shot at the range today! First rifle...and i love it!
just bought and shot at the range today! First rifle...and i love it!
paintballdude902
Member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2007
- Messages
- 2,872
my marlin went on her first huting trip with me today
we got really close to gettigna doe but no luck
im going back out monday after school (no sunday hunting in nc)
we got really close to gettigna doe but no luck
im going back out monday after school (no sunday hunting in nc)
OK, so I broke down and got a brand new, factory fresh 336 in .30-.30!
I haven't shot it yet, but it appears to be a very cool gun.
I have a quick question though.....
The bolt that slides out of the back of the rifle(sorry, don't know the proper name) when I work the lever is uncoated stainless steel. It is indeed silver in color.
This is the first 336 that I've owned, but in all of the pics that I've seen online this piece is blued like the rest of the gun.
Is this some new cost saving measure, or is this standard for a 336?
I haven't shot it yet, but it appears to be a very cool gun.
I have a quick question though.....
The bolt that slides out of the back of the rifle(sorry, don't know the proper name) when I work the lever is uncoated stainless steel. It is indeed silver in color.
This is the first 336 that I've owned, but in all of the pics that I've seen online this piece is blued like the rest of the gun.
Is this some new cost saving measure, or is this standard for a 336?
Fast Frank
Member
Nope, not a new feature.
I might be wrong, but I believe the silver bolt (I thought it was plated) has been standard fare on the 336 all along.
Here's a pic of mine.
And can somebody point me towards where I can identify my year of manufacture?
Is it the same as a model 39?
********************************EDIT*****************************
It's a "V" serial number. 1962?
Wow! I had no idea it was that old!
I might be wrong, but I believe the silver bolt (I thought it was plated) has been standard fare on the 336 all along.
Here's a pic of mine.
And can somebody point me towards where I can identify my year of manufacture?
Is it the same as a model 39?
********************************EDIT*****************************
It's a "V" serial number. 1962?
Wow! I had no idea it was that old!
I'm trying to install my XS Ghost ring sights and the directions are terrible. I have the rear sight installed, but I can't figure out how to detach the factory rear and front sights. Can anyone post a link on how to do this, or explain it to me?
AStone
Member
Taff,
I gotta agree about XS's directions. So far for me, they're the weak spot in the whole company. They need to hire a good technical writer (or team) that can clarify and make them totally user friendly for someone who's never even handled a rifle before. As it is, it seems they have one set of directions for about X guns stuck in a disordered way onto a large sheet of paper folded up; it's time consuming and not easy (for me anyway) to find which ones apply to my gun.
IMO, of course.
The factory rears should slide out with a small punch and hammer, hit from one side to the other (I forget if the direction matters; it's a dovetail, so I don't think so, but go easy. If you hit resistance, punch the other direction.)
Front sight? Don't they have one or two screws? If not, how old is your 336?
I gotta agree about XS's directions. So far for me, they're the weak spot in the whole company. They need to hire a good technical writer (or team) that can clarify and make them totally user friendly for someone who's never even handled a rifle before. As it is, it seems they have one set of directions for about X guns stuck in a disordered way onto a large sheet of paper folded up; it's time consuming and not easy (for me anyway) to find which ones apply to my gun.
IMO, of course.
The factory rears should slide out with a small punch and hammer, hit from one side to the other (I forget if the direction matters; it's a dovetail, so I don't think so, but go easy. If you hit resistance, punch the other direction.)
Front sight? Don't they have one or two screws? If not, how old is your 336?
Nem,
It's a brand new from the factory 336.
So the rears slide out left to right, and not front to back? The front sight had one screw, but it's still on tight. Is that because of some sort of glue that I need to break?
Yes, the instructions are a joke. I thought I was being thick until I had my brother who is an engineer and deciphers directions all day long look at them. He couldn't make heads or tails from them either.
It's a brand new from the factory 336.
So the rears slide out left to right, and not front to back? The front sight had one screw, but it's still on tight. Is that because of some sort of glue that I need to break?
Yes, the instructions are a joke. I thought I was being thick until I had my brother who is an engineer and deciphers directions all day long look at them. He couldn't make heads or tails from them either.
Taffnevy: Tap the rear sight out from left to right assuming you are looking at it from the rear end. If your front sight is a ramp style and not just dovetailed into the barrel, tap the sight blade out of the ramp left to right also. There is a second screw beneath the front sight blade that will now be visible. Be careful to tap on the front sight blade down at the thick part, not the thin part at the top.
electrode1998
Member
Hey Taff.,
There should be no gule to mess with on the front screws. You just have to be sure to have the EXACT size screwdriver because the heads can ream out VERY EASILY!!! I used a thin blade--good quality flat blade on my front sights if I remember correctly and they came out will a little, very little, extra work on them.
Hope this helps,
e'trode
There should be no gule to mess with on the front screws. You just have to be sure to have the EXACT size screwdriver because the heads can ream out VERY EASILY!!! I used a thin blade--good quality flat blade on my front sights if I remember correctly and they came out will a little, very little, extra work on them.
Hope this helps,
e'trode
JustsayMo
Member
There is a second screw beneath the front sight on my 336's with the ramp front sight.
wulfbyte
Member
hello 336 land
OK, I'm not a big forums kind of a guy but I do check in from time to time and if I have something useful to add I'll post. I just read through all of the current 44 pages of posts in this club and I am impressed that the 336 garners such attention on a general firearms type of board. My own 336CS was purchased new in 1999 (but manufactured in '96) after long and careful consideration for what an all around utility rifle ought to be for me. It has been my favorite for all this time eclipsed only by a Marlin 444P. It was however the Outfitter that got sold when I ran into a bit of financial difficulties.
A recent fit of nostalgia (and some good fortune on the financial front) has me prowling the gun shops again and stocking up on ammo for my next range trip so I found myself here again after long absence to see what news there might be on the Marlin front. I am contemplating a new purchase and I am torn between a 336 in 35 Rem, a 444, or 1895G. I'm not posting for advice on choices or anything, just background on what brought me back.
Now for the useful part; in all the posts I read, I didn't see any references at all to the sight I installed on my 336 years ago, the Brockman peep. (here is a link to it on Brownells: http://216.243.198.184/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1803&title=BROCKMAN+MARLIN+REAR+PEEP+SIGHT)
I know the sight is still in production and perhaps a bit pricey, but it is a good solid steel unit and easy to adjust and lock in once done. For whatever I end up with (and I really wish the 444P was still in production, or at least find someone foolish enough to part with theirs) I plan on mounting another Brockman on it.
Is the Brockman's peep sight conspicuous absence due to some flaw of which I am not aware or is it simply an obscure sight not generally discovered yet?
OK, I'm not a big forums kind of a guy but I do check in from time to time and if I have something useful to add I'll post. I just read through all of the current 44 pages of posts in this club and I am impressed that the 336 garners such attention on a general firearms type of board. My own 336CS was purchased new in 1999 (but manufactured in '96) after long and careful consideration for what an all around utility rifle ought to be for me. It has been my favorite for all this time eclipsed only by a Marlin 444P. It was however the Outfitter that got sold when I ran into a bit of financial difficulties.
A recent fit of nostalgia (and some good fortune on the financial front) has me prowling the gun shops again and stocking up on ammo for my next range trip so I found myself here again after long absence to see what news there might be on the Marlin front. I am contemplating a new purchase and I am torn between a 336 in 35 Rem, a 444, or 1895G. I'm not posting for advice on choices or anything, just background on what brought me back.
Now for the useful part; in all the posts I read, I didn't see any references at all to the sight I installed on my 336 years ago, the Brockman peep. (here is a link to it on Brownells: http://216.243.198.184/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1803&title=BROCKMAN+MARLIN+REAR+PEEP+SIGHT)
I know the sight is still in production and perhaps a bit pricey, but it is a good solid steel unit and easy to adjust and lock in once done. For whatever I end up with (and I really wish the 444P was still in production, or at least find someone foolish enough to part with theirs) I plan on mounting another Brockman on it.
Is the Brockman's peep sight conspicuous absence due to some flaw of which I am not aware or is it simply an obscure sight not generally discovered yet?
AStone
Member
Wulf, welcome to 336-ville. Make yourself at home. Drinks are in the fridge, rnds in the cabinet just to the left of the fridge. Range is out back. (Well, I guess you figured that out from the rnds going off out there.)
I'm more interested in "point, fast target acquisition and shoot" at sub 100 yd ranges than "target shooting at 100 and more".
From what I can tell - and please correct me if I'm wrong - the Brockmans are strictly peep.
In any case, I'm glad you added them to our sight list. Lots in here will find them useful. That's a big part of what the club is about: as much useful information about a 336 as we can stuff into a single thread.
Someday, maybe, we'll build an index thread for it, with links to particular pages and posts about indexed items.
But right now, it's back to work with me. A new business project is eating me alive, and will probably continue to chew on my body and mind for the remainder of autumn.
Nem
Speaking only for myself, it's been partly ignorance - I hadn't heard of the Brockmans until you mentioned them (nice looking; now bookmarked), and partly that I don't want peep sights on my 336, but ghost rings or peeps that I can screw out the small aperture for a larger one.
I'm more interested in "point, fast target acquisition and shoot" at sub 100 yd ranges than "target shooting at 100 and more".
From what I can tell - and please correct me if I'm wrong - the Brockmans are strictly peep.
In any case, I'm glad you added them to our sight list. Lots in here will find them useful. That's a big part of what the club is about: as much useful information about a 336 as we can stuff into a single thread.
Someday, maybe, we'll build an index thread for it, with links to particular pages and posts about indexed items.
But right now, it's back to work with me. A new business project is eating me alive, and will probably continue to chew on my body and mind for the remainder of autumn.
Nem
wulfbyte
Member
peep or ghost?
Well what qualifies as a ghost ring as opposed to an aperture? With the included aperture screwed in you have an opening of just over .130" and without it in place you have an opening of about .188" (I don't have a precision measuring tool to get better readings, so I compared the openings to drill bits).
I have seen sights with both larger and smaller openings, so I'm not sure where it would fall.
I've been shooting aperture sights with both eyes open for quite a long time, so when I want something familiar, this is what I choose. Buckhorns are what throws me off, I have a hell of a time making them do for me what I need to get good consistent hits.
Well what qualifies as a ghost ring as opposed to an aperture? With the included aperture screwed in you have an opening of just over .130" and without it in place you have an opening of about .188" (I don't have a precision measuring tool to get better readings, so I compared the openings to drill bits).
I have seen sights with both larger and smaller openings, so I'm not sure where it would fall.
I've been shooting aperture sights with both eyes open for quite a long time, so when I want something familiar, this is what I choose. Buckhorns are what throws me off, I have a hell of a time making them do for me what I need to get good consistent hits.
Peeps and ghost rings are both aperture sights. The only thing that differentiates them is that a ghost ring has a relatively large aperture and thin ring that almost disappears when you look through it. Some ghost rings will also accept a peep aperture, and as you mentioned you can remove the peep disk from certain sights and use the remaining aperture almost like a ghost ring.
For the quickest target acquisition and sight alignment, a true ghost ring is usually better than a peep, even with the disk removed. However, a peep will be more precise for extended range. Shots within 75 yards or so are where the ghost ring shines.
Brockman makes a quality product. But for a pure ghost ring, other commercially available sights like XS and Skinner are hard to beat for their durability, ease of use, and easy installation.
For the quickest target acquisition and sight alignment, a true ghost ring is usually better than a peep, even with the disk removed. However, a peep will be more precise for extended range. Shots within 75 yards or so are where the ghost ring shines.
Brockman makes a quality product. But for a pure ghost ring, other commercially available sights like XS and Skinner are hard to beat for their durability, ease of use, and easy installation.
wulfbyte
Member
where is everyone?
Nothing new on the 336 front? How about a conversation seed.
I picked up a 1895g last week and I must say, in comparison to my 10 year old 336, it is sadly lacking in workmanship. Is this a trend with new manufacture Marlins, or is mine an anomaly?
Nothing new on the 336 front? How about a conversation seed.
I picked up a 1895g last week and I must say, in comparison to my 10 year old 336, it is sadly lacking in workmanship. Is this a trend with new manufacture Marlins, or is mine an anomaly?
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