The 336 Club

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I do believe that the 336A is the only one with an end cap on the fore end. The 336C and W both sport bands, with the C model carrying walnut furniture with a cap on the pistol grip and they used to have (not sure if they still do) white spacers under the recoil pad and pistol grip cap.

The W model has hardwood furniture finished in a walnut color, no grip cap and no spacers. It does have a gold plated trigger though.

By virtue of the end cap and no gold trigger, I would place the A model as the bare bones version, then the W and then the C, but then again, the ranking would vary depending on what you wanted it for. Currently only the C is available in .35 Rem.
 
If I go up there, the walk about gun
will become an 1895, probably a G.

You got the right gun either Marlin 1895G or GS.
And loaded with 415 grain Garrett Hammerheads you can confidently knock off everything up there from grizzly's to musk ox.
That round will go completely through those animals front to back.
A trifle rough for the recoil sensitive but handling this rifle is worth the pain.I've had mine 8 years now and it ,along with the Winchester 1894 Trapper in .44 Magnum are my 2 favorite rifles.
I've also got a Marlin 336C in .35 Rem acquired in 1977,my first store bought gun.
I hope that means I can become a member of your incredible,continually expanding club!I'd feel privileged.:)
 
I bought the A for two reasons:

One, I wanted the fore end cap and barrel band.
(Long bit of reasoning, not really worthy repeating now.
Had to do with whether barrel bands affected accuracy.
Seems like the logic wasn't as good as I thought, but I have no regrets.)

Two, i wanted birch instead of walnut.

My sense is, with no data to back it up other than handling a bunch of W's, the A has a slight edge quality-wise. :scrutiny:

Of course, I fully admit that may have been in part because of a bias: I haven't been a Bush supporter. :rolleyes:
 
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I do believe that the 336A is the only one with an end cap on the fore end.
Wulfbyte, you are totally correct. I stand corrected. Thanks for the PM.

Geez, you know I've been working too hard and not getting to the range enough
when I can't even tell you if my 336 has barrel band or end cap! :what:
 
Interesting KB picture.
Looks like the action held eventhough the rest of the gun didn't.
I wonder if that action staying together saved someone his life.

For the KB itself, I'd think wrong ammo (.35 Remington in a 30-30?) or obstruction or overcharged handload.
From my limited reloading experience with the 30-30, it seems that it would be hard to double charge one without spilling powder all over the place.
And I like that in any round I reload.
;)
 
Quote:
what is the difference between A, C, and W?

IMO, W is barest bones econo model. (Not all agree; see next page.) Hardwood furniture (it's birch) and fore end cap barrel band.

A is slightly higher QC (at least rumor has it), barrel band and hardwood furniture (birch, same as W; I actually like the birch better for durability).

C is probably highest QC (pure conjecture), barrel band and American walnut furniture,
which is prettier but slightly less durable than birch according to what I read.
__________________

Where is this A or C or W denoted? In the serial number?

Thanks
 
I'm trying to think of ways to kaboom a 30-30, and there aren't many. 35 Remington wouldn't fit into the chamber, it had to be a bore obstruction just ahead of the chamber, or a case full of a VERY fast powder. I can't think of any other way to blow up a 336. Especially in 30-30, which leaves a lot more meat around the barrel threads. From the pix, I'd say the shooter had a round with no powder, the force of the primer jammed the bullet in the throat just ahead of the chamber, and he assumed it was a misfire. He extracts the empty shell, doesn't check anything, and chambers another round, probably with some resistance. The next shot finds the powder charge trying to accelerate 340 grains of mass from a dead start, and the pressure simply has nowhere else to go but outward.

He probably never knew how he did it. I just hope he survived with all his extremities intact.

Papajohn
 
Where is this A or C or W denoted? In the serial number?
76, these days, its printed on the barrel as part of the model number, not in the serial number. Can't tell you about earlier models.

On my relatively new one, stamped into the barrel is "Mod 336A".

Also, please note that the quote from me in your post 1932 has some incorrect info in it. In the original post, I mistakenly got barrel bands and fore end caps switched on A & W. I corrected the original, which I'm including below just for the record.

Sorry for the confusion.

Nem

IMO, W is barest bones econo model. (Not all agree; see page 78.) Hardwood furniture (it's birch) and [strike]fore end cap[/strike] barrel band.

A is slightly higher QC (at least rumor has it), [strike]barrel band[/strike] and hardwood furniture (birch, same as W; I actually like the birch better for durability).

C is probably highest QC (pure conjecture), barrel band and American walnut furniture,
which is prettier but slightly less durable than birch according to what I read.
 
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From the pix, I'd say the shooter had a round with no powder, the force of the primer jammed the bullet in the throat just ahead of the chamber, and he assumed it was a misfire. He extracts the empty shell, doesn't check anything, and chambers another round, probably with some resistance. The next shot finds the powder charge trying to accelerate 340 grains of mass from a dead start, and the pressure simply has nowhere else to go but outward.
Note to self:

If FTF occurs in 336, then double check :scrutiny:
that chamber is clear before chambering next rnd,
especially if ejected shell has no bullet seated. :uhoh:
 
Regarding the kaboom, I thought about numerous "wrong"cartridges causing it, the 38/55 included. But the bullet had to be 30 caliber or smaller, otherwise it wouldn't chamber, and the gun wouldn't go into battery, hence couldn't fire. Even if it did, the damage would be a lot farther back, not ahead of the bolt/receiver. And how the heck did it blow the hammer OFF? Maybe the excessive bolt thrust slammed the bolt back through the locking block and sheared off the hammer. That's the only way I can figure it. If it was a bullet stuck ahead of the chamber, it had to be pretty close to the chamber, judging from where the receiver split.

We'll never know, but it does give one pause to consider what he's putting in the chamber when his face is inches away from it. The thought of that hammer being blown backwards at high velocity gives me the willies!

PJ
 
Here's mine from the other morning at the range. It's a 70's vintage gun in .35. The three shot group is 50 yards sitting, the five shot is from 25 yards standing on my hind legs and shooting like a man.

The Williams sights are new. It originally wore a Weaver K1.5, but that scope got moved to my slug gun. Then, the sight blade on the rear sight broke, apparently spontaneously while the gun was cased and locked up. Midway had the Williams sights on sale, and I figured it was a sign.

336c.jpg
 
Ka-Boom

Hi all,
Just a couple Random Acts of Thoughtfulness (RAT).:uhoh: After looking over that 336, I have a new respect for the strength of the receiver area.;) Also we have not determined if this was a reload or manuf. round (unless I missed it), but I have to agree with papajohn that it sure looks like two bullet theory is most likely, regardless of how. Really makes you want to keep attuned to different sound of discharge when firing. :eek: Having seen two burst barrels from this theory and they both acted the same way, though a bit further down. Nemo: I might start carrying my .22 bore snake and if there is a suspect fire on a rifle it would only take a few seconds to drop it down any barrel to check for patency.:scrutiny:
TaKe CaRe
Ted
 
The 1895's tend to be less finicky about ammo than my 336's. That does come at a price though as ammo for the 1895's is about twice as expensive, commercial and reloads.

In my experience, the 1895 shoots more accurately than the 336. Could just be my rifles, though.
 
Ok here's a MANs 336 in 38-55. Not one of those leetle sissy guns. It's a 1950 made 336 rebuilt into a 38-55 with a 26" Marlin Special Smokeless steel barrel. With the Lyman tang and #17 front sight my son can hit 10" circles at 300m offhand. [Personally I can't see a 10" circle at 300m]

streakr
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Hey everybody,
Sorry it has been awhile since I have posted, but not too much to talk about. I have loved reading the posts lately. I have not been to the range for the summer--too hot. However I think all of the guns are comming out of the locker by Monday. I may have to temp. bug out due to Gustav.

That SOB is comming right at us and there may be alot of water comming our way.

I have one big favor to ask everyone???

PRAY FOR US--THIS IS GOING TO BE A REALY BAD STORM!!!!!!!!!

I AM NOT IN N.O., BUT ABOUT 90 MILES FROM THERE!!!! The winds are going to be about 100 mph even up here and the rain is probably going to be bad. I hope we do not flood!!!!

Just in case I am taking my guns and ammo out so at least they do not get wet.

Talk to ya'll later and hopefully we will stay dry in the house.

electrode1998
 
RANGE REPORT: 336 Texan & Cowboy

336 Texan

93 grain Lyman mold cast (wheel weights) bullet, sized .311"
3.3 grains of Red Dot (=.5cc Lee powder scoop)
Remington 9.5 primer
Winchester Brass
Loaded with a $20 Lee Loader

I was given a few hundred of these bullets and I've been toying around with them in the 30-30. The last time out I tried them with 5 grains of Red Dot and averaged 1178 fps with OK accuracy. This time I dropped the load to 3.3 grains and averaged 1007 fps. The accuracy was 2-1/2" at 50 yards with iron sights and it shoots about 2" lower than 170gr Remington Corelokt factory loads. At 25 yards It managed to keep them at 1" including the flier and shot point of aim. it would make a good close range Grouse load.

The surprise of the day:
.314" average ~48 grain Buckshot pressed into the case with thumb pressure
a 22lr case full of Bullseye powder
Remington 9.5 primer
S&B case (terrible brass, I won't reuse them again)

Out of curiosity I decided to try this load at 50 yards. I was VERY pleased to see that it shot point of aim and about 2" group size. Much better than I had anticipated at this range and better than the 93 grain load. The load averaged 1059 fps. At 25 yards this shoots under 1" and just slightly below the point of aim. Very economical. The most expensive component is the primer. The report is less than a 22lr

Next I ran some 170 grain factory Remington Core-lokt's through which currently a $5 per box rebate going on... Get it on sale and you'll end up paying less than $0.50 per round for it. This batch ran through the chronograph 2253 fps average which is a 100 fps quicker than previous batches I've purchased. The accuracy was good, just slightly over 1" at 50 yards with iron sights.

This rifle loves and is sighted in for a 170 grain Laser-Cast bullet over 5 grains of Red Dot. I shot a 3/4" fifty yard group as a baseline and it averages 1024 fps.

The Cowboy
The last trip out the Cowboy showed a strong preference for the Ranch Dog TLC311-165 bullet with a Hornady Gas Check ( www.ranchdogmolds.com ) over 10.5 grains of SR4756 - which happens to be the charge my 45 colt Rugers like with a 255 grain cast bullet. Today that trend was tested and proved. The load averages 1420 fps and produced sub 1" groups once the barrel was fouled. I'll probably try this load for Cowboy Silhouette matches using this rifle. Mild shooting and low report.
 
Great report - shows a versatility I don't normally think in terms of. Thanks very much for posting it.

I really ought to consider reloading.
 
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