Statistical Evidence That Higher Pressure Rounds Wear Out Guns Quicker

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A few more thoughts on this, and why recoil operated designs are not necessarily the best 'hot rod' platforms

-Necked rounds generate a lot more thrust on the barrel/slide lockup, since there is pressure-bearing area on the barrel-side of the chamber in addition to the breech
-Peak lug thrust is seldom the limiting factor in handguns, for sure in 1911/Tok/Hi Power style multi-lug platforms (see: 460 Rowland)
-Recoil is what operates recoil-operated guns, not pressure
--Therefore increasing recoil by itself is akin to 'overgassing' a gas operated gun; recipe for reduced life or breaking stuff
--Like an overgassed gun, an over-accelerated slide runs much rougher, breaking things
--Like a severely overgassed gun, an over-accelerated slide can result in timing issues, to the point of case head failure!
--Like a gas-operated gun, recoil actions are tuned to work within a fairly narrow band of operating energy (recoil/momentum in this case), and cannot be expected to operate reliably/safely very far outside this range without redesign
--Unlike a gas-operated gun, there aren't very good methods to throttle the energy delivered to the operating system (muzzle brake is it)
-Pressure/temperature are not high enough for a long enough duration to damage overbore barrels like rifles can, there is simply not enough powder to 'sandblast' the throat all that much, nor enough velocity. Cold hammer-forged 357 MR73 revolvers can run many tens of thousands of rounds (if not hundreds by now) of full power mags without detectable wear.

-Most important; no one marketing a newer, more powerful chambering ever bothers to modify or design a new platform whose design variables are optimized for it. It is simply too expensive. So the best you get is 'long slides' which use weight to slow things down, or muzzle brakes to divert some of the recoil energy against escaping gas. Otherwise, pretty much all of them function by pressing the operating energy envelope just a little bit further than ever intended by the original designers, who optimized the weight/timing/etc for a lower power cartridge.

Unlike a gas-gun which can easily shield the operating system from the increase in cartridge power by using a smaller gas port or a cutoff mechanism, a recoil operated gun has to soak up all the recoil energy there is available. Puts a hard ceiling on how much momentum your cartridge can deliver at the end of the day, and the closer you get to it, the more you abuse the machine.

Proper design is always a good thing, and can solve pretty much all problems like these that are caused by playing with a few variables...but it's also too expensive for folks just funnin' around with new cartridge ideas ;) (FWIW, I believe that rapid prototyping and CNC will eventually make this type of iterative design-by-empirical-experimentation viable, and ultimately lead to new/better optimums than we have reached to date)

TCB
 
These guys have pretty well beaten the dead horse on bolt thrust and slide motion. The only other thing worth mentioning isn't really even applicable for most handgun platforms, but as you increase pressure, you often increase temperature, and that erodes the chamber and barrel faster on higher pressure rounds more so than on lower pressure rounds. In rifles it is a much bigger issue. In pistols it's basically theoretical.
 
I suppose in revolvers it's more real, in the form of gas cutting, but autoloaders offer a nearly straight path for the flow so it doesn't abrade things as much
 
At the range last night and a 40 shield blew apart the recoil spring. Talking with the guys and never had a 9 mm pistol break but a few 40s have. Not a real statistical test but a lot more 9 mm is fired and more 40s break. The shield had 300 rounds in it when it came apart, but the other 40s had high round counts.
 
Does 40 typically have more momentum/inertia/recoil than a 9mm load? Are 40 pistols typically built to accommodate that difference? Same can be said for everybody's favorite 9mm +P load, too, btw...

TCB
 
i dont choose 9mm over 40 because of frame wear, i choose 9mm over 40 because i quite frankly dont see any reason to have a 40.. its overpriced, chambered in frames generally too small for it and offers little improvement ballistically
.40 Stylish&Withit
almost as good as a .45 :rolleyes:
 
These guys have pretty well beaten the dead horse on bolt thrust and slide motion. The only other thing worth mentioning isn't really even applicable for most handgun platforms, but as you increase pressure, you often increase temperature, and that erodes the chamber and barrel faster on higher pressure rounds more so than on lower pressure rounds. In rifles it is a much bigger issue. In pistols it's basically theoretical.
Been thinking more on this, and I'm convincing myself it's not theoretical. A lot of folks shoot handguns rapidly. Firing rapidly builds up heat in the metal parts quickly softening them as they get hot. For rapid fire of 5 rounds it's probably no worse for wear, but rapid fire of 15 rounds followed by a quick mag change and more rounds is going to tax the barrel pretty heavily.
 
For rapid fire of 5 rounds it's probably no worse for wear, but rapid fire of 15 rounds followed by a quick mag change and more rounds is going to tax the barrel pretty heavily.

Nope.

This is what it takes to damage the rifling in a handgun barrel:

 
How hot does steel need to get to affect temper? And why wouldn't a 1911 set its own oil on fire long before reaching that level? Only place it could even theoretically get that hot momentarily (and after every shot) is the bore, and the evidence clearly shows bore erosion is not an issue in handgun rounds. Why would parts even further away from the heat source (ie cooler) be more vulnerable?

TCB
 
How hot does steel need to get to affect temper?

Depends on the alloy and the temper.

Most gun barrels are 4XXX series steels or 416 stainless (sometimes 17-X), heat treated and then tempered to ~30 HRC at somewhere in the 1,100-1,500°F range. I believe they'd begin to anneal north of 600° or 700°.
 
I always thought you had to get up to at least the current tempering temperature to really play hell with the material properties? Even getting up to the very lowest end of the temper scale (going from glass-hard to not-quite-glass-hard) has a detrimental impact? I ask because I'll be making some more chamber reamers in the near future, and I'm trying to figure out what went wrong on one of the first batch (didn't harden at all, or was totally annealed during tempering; other one worked fine, though my sharpening skills need work. I half-suspect the O1 for that reamer was not O1...)

TCB
 
I'm just going to shoot the crap out of my 9mm's and 40's with "warm" handloads, when they fail, they fail. With a lifetime warranty....I'll get a new gun!
 
MachIV, I don't follow your disagreement. 1200 rounds and rifling was stripped both front and rear..from my point of view that confirms my thoughts. I know good and well a glock is good for a lot more than 1200 rounds when not intentionally abused, so rapid fire heated the barrel up making it weaker and causing early failure.
 
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MachIV, I don't follow your disagreement. 1200 rounds and rifling was stripped both front and rear..from my point of view that confirms my thoughts. I know good and well a glock is good for a lot more than 1200 rounds when not intentionally abused, so rapid fire heated the barrel up making it weaker and causing early failure.

The indoor range where I shoot had a Glock event some years back, and you could fire a Glock 18, a selective-fire capable version of the Glock 17 for a small fee. The Glock sales rep also had a Glock armorer with him, and he'd check out and update your Glock for free. Glock doesn't get enough credit for it's savvy marketing practices.

I don't remember whether they used the 33 round mag or not -- but I think it was the standard 17-round mag that was used. (it was almost 20 years ago!!

There were a LOT of folks willing to fork over $25 to shoot a mag through the gun full-auto Glock, and it was an interesting experience. The range supplied the ammo and kept the cash. I'll bet the shooters easily shot several thousand rounds through the gun that afteroon, and didn't see or hear of any malfunctions. Special attention was paid to the guns when instructing the shooters how to handle the weapon, and to watch out for barrel rise -- the barrel wasn't comped -- and they periodically gave those in line some demos of how to do it right.
 
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I guess the frame of reference is how much life you consider enough. Clearly, you are very fixated on design life but that does not mean everyone else is,
I am with you on this. I will never wear out any of my handguns, whether they are polymer, steel framed, aluminum framed. Some do not realize how short our lives are, especially our shooting portion of life. Enjoy and forget about wearing out your whatever caliber you shoot.
 
I would be thrilled if I could afford the ammo, and find the time, to wear out any of my handguns from shooting so many rounds through it. That would be quite the honor/accomplishment. And hopefully, if I liked it that much, shot it that much, and could afford that ammo and time, I'd make sure to have more than one of them
 
Jumping in for evidence of 357 J-frame durability..

Although I have read all of the ~83 posts of this thread, I refer to this post as a source for a comprehensive answer to a concern of mine about the longevity of a hammerless S&W 357 J-frame 640 firing a light regimen of 200 gr. loads.
Statistically, it has been well reported that K-frames experienced decrease service life on a diet of 125gr. balls of fire, which led to the development of L and N size frames. I am curious about the J frame in comparison ? Any detailed responses by Bart or others would be well appreciated. Specifically what forces are the internal firing pin mechanism subjected to using an occasional cylinder or 2 of 200gr. DT loads ?

Pressure/temperature are not high enough for a long enough duration to damage overbore barrels like rifles can, there is simply not enough powder to 'sa
ndblast' the throat all that much, nor enough velocity. Cold hammer-forged 357 MR73 revolvers can run many tens of thousands of rounds (if not hundreds by now) of full power mags without detectable wear.
 
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Jumping in for evidence of 357 J-frame durability..

Although I have read all of the ~70 posts of this thread, I refer to this post as a source for a comprehensive answer to a concern of mine about the longevity of a hammerless S&W 357 J-frame 640 firing a light regimen of 200 gr. loads.
Statistically, it has been well reported that K-frames experienced decrease service life on a diet of 125gr. balls of fire, which led to the development of L and N size frames. I am curious about the J frame in comparison ? Any detailed responses by Barnbwt or others would be well appreciated. Specifically what forces are the internal firing pin mechanism subjected to using an occasional cylinder or 2 of 200gr. DT loads ?

Pressure/temperature are not high enough for a long enough duration to damage overbore barrels like rifles can, there is simply not enough powder to 'sandblast' the throat all that much, nor enough velocity. Cold hammer-forged 357 MR73 revolvers can run many tens of thousands of rounds (if not hundreds by now) of full power mags without detectable wear.
 
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Barnbwt, your detailed and scientific responses are part of the "good stuff" I consistently find along my perusing paths along THE HIGH ROAD. I had intended to insert post responses #70,(accidently # 71, aiming to edit name correction, but created duplicate posts) following your post # 51 in this context since you brought up the durability of 357 magnum revolvers and I had been searching for such answers and insight recently in other threads.
 
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